| Author | Message | ||
     Nickh |
I don't want to start a war, but I have an oil related question.  My 2009 XB12Scg has around 3500 miles on it and I have not yet switched to synthetic. Should I switch to synthetic as soon as possible (in the spring) or should I wait for the 5000 mile mark? Thanks, Nick | ||
| Boney95 |
Switch. You could have done so sooner. | ||
| Gearhead |
Switch ASAP! | ||
| Etennuly |
After running the first 20,000 with non-synthetic I went to Mobil 1 V-Twin. At 40,000 I switched back to non-synthetic. IMHO the engine is quieter, quieter seems smoother, and I believe it carries heat away better. That is just my opinion and my bikes are the only ones that have to live with it. | ||
| California69gs |
I was under 3K and my dealership told me I could switch to synthetic. I don't notice a thing but it's for the bike, not me, LOL. | ||
| Nickh |
Thanks Guys. @ Etennuly Is this the oil you use? https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils /Mobil_1_V-Twin_20W-50.aspx Also, do you use it as the trans fluid as well? Thanks, Nick | ||
| Greg_e |
My old air cooled Katana was completely different with synthetic oil. Always had some shifter issues on regular oil, the synth was perfect. Otherwise everything else seemed to be the same. (Message edited by Greg_E on January 01, 2010) | ||
| Hughlysses |
I waited until after 5,000 miles with my 2007 Uly to switch (to Mobil 1 V-twin 20W-50 synthetic) and I'm glad I did. I noticed that fan operation continued to decrease even after the switch to synthetic, up to around 8,000 miles or so when it seemed to level off. Based on my experience, IMHO the engine is not fully broken in until somewhere north of 5,000 miles. | ||
| Nickh |
Thanks for all of your input guys, I appreciate it. -Nick- | ||
| Rah7777777 |
I'd switch at your next oil change. I'm a solid mobil 1 fan ( v-twin 20/50 if I remember correctly ) but everyone seems to have there favorites, just make sure it meets all the grade levels for your bike and your ok. -Robert www.xblights.com | ||
| Nickh |
Thanks Robert. Do you use Mobil 1 in the primary and the trans? Thanks, Nick | ||
| Etennuly |
I use Formula+ HD stuff for the primary thus far. Every other oil change. 44,450 miles on it now and it is smoother and quieter than most, it does not use or loose oil between changes. That is the Mobil 1 that I did use. Now that I am back to non-synthetic I am using Shell Rotella diesel oil as a test. I use it at the W ratings to fit the temperatures per the book. I used to use the HD non-syn oils, but when they started to think their non-syn oils had a value of $12.00+ per quart, I could not agree.  HD! They need me, I don't need them. | ||
| Jraice |
I change oil every 2,500 miles, usually in both holes, so it really doesnt matter... However after the engine rebuild I switched to Syn3 instead of Amsoil (had also tried Royal Purple). Heard from some people that ran it for a long time and then broke down the motor and saw that it looked brand new. If you can't decide between dino or syn, get one thats both  . | ||
| Sloppy |
The "myth" about starting your bike on dino oil before switching to synthetics has to do with economy. The first batch of oil changes should be done quickly - as an example, at 200, 700 and 1500 miles. Idea being that the engine will go through the first THOUSANDS of rotational cycles and this is where most of the wear metallic debris will come from. Hence, you want to get it out of your bike. But since you're not using up the viscosity of the oil in this time frame, you'll be "wasting" oil - hence, don't use synthetic as you'll REALLY be wasting money. Once you're past this "break in" period, unless you are planning on extending oil drain intervals, synthetics are a waste of money. And if you do plan on extending oil drain intervals, you'll actually be saving money... I highly recommend Mobil 1, 15w-50 in both engine and tranny (it is, by the way, a GL-4 gear oil as well!). There is no need to use the Mobil 1 Motorcycle oils on these engines as these oils carry the JASO standard while our bikes require the API "C" standard... but you can if you want. Key point is to use API "C" oils - if it doesn't have it on the label, then pass on the oil! | ||
| Nickh |
Good info, thanks Sloppy. -Nick- | ||
| Buellishxx |
I've been using amsoil 20-50 in my Harleys and Buells for years. On my high compression big twin the temp drop was very noticeable as it was on my XB. Nice thing is every harley and buell I have now uses the same oil in every component. Engine, trans, primary. I change oil @ 10000km intervals. My 94 Road King had 125,000km on it, with no engine issues. My 2004 xb12 has 28000km on it now, of which 18000 are track km's as it hasn't been on the road since 2006. The engine still sound good, no leaks, nothing! I will dyno it again this spring to see where the hp is now, but at the beginning of 2007 it was 95hp at the rear wheel with a drummer / k&n and race ecm. | ||
| Arcticktm |
Starting on a non-syn oil is not myth. It just depends on your engine. Some motors, especially older ones and traditional (iron or steel piston with iron liners) heavy duty diesels, break in the cylinder walls (or liners) better with non-synthetic oils. Unfortunately, it is engine specific, so there is no 1 rule to follow, other than trusting your engine manufacturer to get it right. I don't see how you can go wrong by playing it safe and just running the recommended oil grade for the first few thousand miles. It has a lot to do with the honing of the cylinder liners, and that can vary a lot from one OEM to another, and even within engine line from the same OEM. My first job out of school was around the cylinder liner honing area at Detroit Diesel, and the guys that were Manufacturing Engineers for honing were as much artists as scientists. Of course, some high end engines now use syn oil as factory fill, and its use is much more common, so it is being considered more in engine designs now. | ||
| Bumblebee |
In really I don't think it matters if you use synthetic oil or not. If it makes you feel better then do it. What ever you do use just remember to change it when you should.  (Message edited by Bumblebee on January 14, 2010) | ||
| Sloppy |
"...playing it safe and just running the recommended oil grade for the first few thousand miles." That is absolutely correct. And, of course, there are plenty of synthetics that are of the recommended grades. It's just as easy to screw up a break in on synthetics as it is with conventional - just follow what the mfg recommendations. The main advantage of synthetics is that they hold their viscosity over a longer period of time. The disadvantage is the cost. Yea, I'd second BBee's statement. |
