| Author | Message | ||
     Redscuell |
I'm a compulsive tinkerer, so having hacked open one of the oem mufflers a year ago I've had a better understanding of what Buell accomplished with the stocker. The stocker is a work of art, that belongs in the Smithsonian. Seriously. Never mind that, from a business point of view, Buell likely shouldn't have spent so much of their $$ on creating a 20# muffler just so they could use the phrase "heimholz effect" in their ad copy. Anyway, my first mod is the (in)famous third pipe, which gave me 10 more hp and pushed torque up to 82 lb. ft. at the rear wheel (dyno map previously posted), and more noise with a v-twin thump. Now I've chopped off the front collector 'pod' and replaced it with a 2" pipe (see the 'equal length headers' thread of the past month). The mod picked up just a few more hp (dyno says 3-4 in the 6,000-10,000 rpm range), but a lot more thump. I emphasise 'thump' and base noise because the sound meter, using the Australian test protocol for stationary motorbikes, doesn't indicate that there has been an increase in dB(a) at all, with either of my mods; still at 94 dB(a). I'm fortunate in that my commute DOES allow me to use full throttle very frequently. The low end grunt is hefty, but for the last dyno run I did not have the low and mid-ranges mapped. Point: the mod caused the fuel map to go leaner (back up into the 13-14 range) and the bike lost a bit of power; my operator remapped to bring fuel back into the 12 range, and that's when the additional power appeared. Which indicates to me that power losses associated with aftermarket mufflers may be entirely associated with a leaning out. Maybe. I'll figure out how to post up a sound clip; but in the meantime here's a few pics. Really NOT pretty, but very functional.  The missing exhaust shield is not by design; the dealer lost or broke the clips while doing the 20,000 km service (valve lash, engine rotation), during which many bits went walkabout and more were installed improperly.   | ||
| Geforce |
Red, I gotta hand it to ya. You are honest. It damn sure isn't pretty, but if it's working for ya then thumbs up. I spent all day sanding and cleaning my modified stocker off that D_Adams modded for me. I am waiting for the 2nd coat to dry now. Did you do all the work yourself? | ||
| Scarab_run |
wow | ||
| D_adams |
Just out of curiosity, how much have you spent on the exhaust with the various modifications? Just labor/parts and is this the 2nd or 3rd can? Also, why did you pick a 2" midpipe if the stock is 2.5"? (Message edited by d_adams on December 31, 2009) | ||
| Redscuell |
"how much have you spent on the exhaust with the various modifications?" A$300 for the work done, which is about $275. That's not including, of course, the small fortune I've spent remapping the fuel to go along with the changes. This is the first muffler; that is, the one that came with my bike. The second one, an 08 "N" muffler, I cut up to understand its design principles; it cost me A$100. I have a third muffler, an 09 "N" muffler that was actually Australian delivery (new, must've been a 'takeoff') also for A$100; it will never be modified. "Also, why did you pick a 2" midpipe if the stock is 2.5"? " If you followed the "equal length headers" thread I started, one of the posters listed advice from a race pipe builder that, among other things, the midpipe for this engine/power should be 2", to maintain exhaust gas velocity. Therefore, I'm left to guess that Buell used the larger pipe for reasons other than power production; for example, sound deadening. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Red, I have enjoyed your input to these exhaust threads and the others that are experimenting as well. I do like your latest from a functional view. Waiting to see how it works. On the 2" mid-pipe; I think possibly the mid-pipe reference in the tutorial was to the pipe just after the small two into one junction close to the head and not the collector. Buells are 1 3/4". I AGREE, that one should be close to stock Buell for retaining good velocity. Buells race mid-pipe is even longer to give the racers better mid range drive (torque)off the corners but I also believe the collector should be at least 2 1/4" or slightly larger to help scavenge exhaust quickly as well as a free flowing muffler for good top end H.P. Just my take. I also love experimenting. Sometimes successfully. Good work Red. Bob | ||
| D_adams |
I just bought a foot control for my welder, damn this stuff gets expensive after a bit. Just the welder alone I have over $1800 tied up in it now. However, using the fingertip controller was proving to be a pain in the rear, so I'll go back to a foot controller for better welds. It takes a lot of practice to get the finger stuff right and I've been using my feet for tig welding for toooo long to change now. Hopefully I'll have some different stuff to show off in a week or two. Christmas put a damper on my purchases for parts, making the kids happy came first on the list. | ||
| Rex |
Can you post some photos as you were working on the pipe...the internals,, etc? | ||
| Redscuell |
"On the 2" mid-pipe; I think possibly the mid-pipe reference in the tutorial was to the pipe just after the small two into one junction close to the head". No, I did not have that impression at all; that is not a mid-pipe, that is a primary pipe; the midpipe is that which is between the Y join (collector) and before the muffler. And whaddya mean "waiting to see how it works"; I posted that hp is up 3-4 after refueling. Maybe you're waiting for the sound clip? | ||
| Bob_thompson |
No Red, sound clip not needed. I must have just missed that part of the thread. Good job man! |
