| Author | Message | ||
     Onebadx1 |
1999 X1 15,000 miles: I've got the front end off of my '99 X1. I have a fork tube leak, so I'm changing all the seals, bushings and O-Rings,new oil. I also have the Triples off the change the upper and lower steering head bearings, and repairing the steering lock that never locked right. Looks like someone tried to seal this bike at one time, because there is a groove where the lock meets the shaft on the lower triple. I'm not the original owner of the bike. I'm assuming that they are original, so I figured it's time for the bearings. Here's my question...I see that there is a Billet Front Motor Mount available for ($230.00) New bolts...($28.00) Are these really worth it? I've read several threads here where they have been discussed. I've never had a problem with my mount or bushing. Should I change the bushing if I change the mount? And Which bushing should I use? Part #....? Now would be the time to do it since I have the front end off , but funds are short like they are for most of us this time of year. What would you guys do? Upgrade or leave it alone? | ||
| Drhacknstine |
If it ain't broke don't fix it. When it does go the 79D for the iso and a billet mount if yours breaks. Some bikes never break the Mount and others eat them like gas. It's your bike, and you in the end have to live with it. Inspect the iso after every ride and live with it till it needs replaced is my thought. (I say after because I've never been told about the one that failed setting in the garage!) | ||
| Ebutch |
It could make your bike more reliable.I did it at 65,000 mi.I,ve herd some really scary stories here,thats what made me do it.  I used S2 iso. hanger updated it to S3. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
I would buy a new FACTORY mount if you need it. Thats means Ill never buy the nalliin. If you install good factory parts the right way and keep an eye on the bolts, for example mark the bolts with a line. Use a black Sharpie, Then you will know if they ever loosen and you can catch that before anything breaks. 60lb on the 2 bolts into the head. recheck later. Watch rubber on iso. Its that easy. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I wouldn't touch it if it's still good. Don't so much as look at it funny  Some have nothing but problems with those things but others, like myself, have never touched it for 85,000 miles or more. You probably have a good one | ||
| Rickie_d |
I am with Drhacknstine & Natexlh1000 on this one. I have even R&R'ed them dozens of times and never had a failure; and I am hard on my stuff. | ||
| Fullauto |
If you've taken the bolts out, don't re-use them. New bolts are cheap insurance. | ||
| Court |
The NHRS piece, which I have on my S2, is a superior product. But . . if you have not had a failure on the factory unit . . I'd not touch it. | ||
| Court |
By the way . . NEVER, NEVER, NEVER re-use bolts or fail to adhere to proper installation procedure. | ||
| Onebadx1 |
Thanks for your input everyone... I'm thinking I'll just leave it alone. I'd love to get the NHRS mount in the future. See you all next June in East Troy, Wi  | ||
| Phelan |
As Court said, the NRHS piece is a superior product. A stock mount is fine if you have a basically stock motor. If you're puttin' down 30-50% more power than stock as several here are, the NRHS mount is a MUST. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I still contend that the failures are due to a harmonic issue that causes "rocking" that in turn rounds the two faying surfaces. ALL failures I've seen have a "rocker" wear pattern top to bottom on the head side of the motor mount. There is also "rockering" on the head but to a lesser degree. I wonder if the inital "rocking" is caused by a bolt that streched or loosened up. If a new mount is installed without resurfacing the bolt boss on the head, it will eventually fail again. Ebutch, that's the first S2 style mount I've seen break. What's the history behind it? Brad | ||
| Oldog |
If a new mount is installed without resurfacing the bolt boss on the head, it will eventually fail again. That is an accurate statement, With a bad head mount you will not know that you have a problem, untill you have the problem. If your comfortable with the mount use it, do not re-use the bolts... The billit piece from American Sport Bike is well worth the asking price, how much is your piece of mind worth? } | ||
| Ebutch |
It,s an S2 Front isolater converted to 1999 S3 with tie-bar mount welded on off S3 to S2 iso mount for a more reliable S3.Brad  | ||
| Ebutch |
That,s a money saving Tip from The Great Bad-Web!!! What do you guys think of adding a Fourth Tie-Bar to front isolator on S2?I think it could make iso rubber last longer like my S3.21,000 mi is my average on my S2T(125,000 Miles)  | ||
| Onebadx1 |
OK. After reading all this, I'm just gonna get the New Billet mount on from Al @ american sport bike. It's only $$$$ right? Who needs diapers for the baby anyway...? I'll just use all my old HD shirts! Now... DO I GET A NEW ISO? If so... Whats the Part number please? | ||
| Onebadx1 |
And yes. I will use new bolts. Thanks for your help guys! | ||
| Ebutch |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16031.html | ||
| Oldog |
Who needs diapers for the baby anyway...? your kidding right? } | ||
| Onebadx1 |
yes...i'm kidding | ||
| V74 |
i have a question regarding the front isolator mount, i have a 99 M2 which i bought new and have done mods to,one of which i replaced the tie bar between the heads with one front an XB,i have been thinking of fitting the tie bar from my bike to the front isolator head mount as a forth tie bar like the X1,s have,but would this place more stress of a lateral kind on the mount and its bolts?instead of just the horizontal stress it has without it,are there more X1,s with broken head mount bolts/cracked head bolt holes than unmodified M2,s ???the XB bikes have just three tie bars none on the front head mount,am i best just leaving it as is???i have so far not had any problems in this area(hope i haven't cursed it now) | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
It seems that there must have been a reason why Buell put a front tie bar on the later S3 and X1 models. The M2s got a front mount that would accept a tie bar like the newer S3 and X1 but no tie bar was installed. I just bought a tie bar and it bolted right up. However, earlier models will need an X1 front mount and a frame lug welded on. Buellistic did this on his early model S3 and he could explain in detail. | ||
| Mmmi_grad |
The bars are used for alignment of the motor in the frame. The more bars you got the more assurance you get when you put things back together and the bars line up. If bars do not line up and right.. then the frame is bent. After a proper adj is done ofcourse. ( not in the SM ) I would leave the xb as is. There shouldnt be stress on these, they align the motor with the frame, thats all. I know how to do it on BT's but I dont have the facts on these. Is frame alignment the same on these? (Message edited by mmmi_grad on January 01, 2010) | ||
| Outdoors |
Dave_02_1200, Your M2 is a 2002 model I believe. I have a 2000. Can you post a picture of the tie bar and where you installed it? I'm having a little mind block and can't picture it. If it is just a simple bolt on for my 2000 M2 that could strengthen it some then I would give it a go. Regards. | ||
| Ebutch |
1998 Fall issue of Battle2Win.Improvements to 1999 Buells.  | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Wes, It is a simple bolt-on for your M2. See the "New frame member" pictured above. The tie-bar connects that member to the unused hole on the front motor mount. Also, the tie-bars on M2s and X1s are all the same so you can get one from ebay for very little cost. Dave | ||
| Ebutch |
 | ||
| Outdoors |
Thanks guys. That was a great help. I'm away for a couple days but will have a look at my M2 when I get back. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Wes, There is a set of 4 tie-bars from an X1 on ebay right now for a buy it now price of $19.00 plus shipping. That is the one you need, and you will have three spares left over or to share. Regards, Dave | ||
| Dvc357 |
I must ask a stupid question. I've got a '97 S3T with the front mount that "Ebutch" shows above. Since i changed to an aftermarket Air filter, that tab that says "Do not remove" is just blowing in the wind. Can i machine that tab off. I mean is it like the tag on a mattress? Or do i need it for some reason? | ||
| Jramsey |
Please whack it off,its an eyesore on M2's, S3's that have had the breadbox removed. | ||
| Gowindward |
Michael, the "Do Not Remove" is because if you remove the bracket then the bolts need to be replace when it is installed again. See American Sport Bike for the bolts. Loren | ||
| Dvc357 |
Thanks all, Wheres my hacksaw and dremmel,... |
