Author |
Message |
Snp304
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 12:18 pm: |
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need one please, posted in the classifieds also, figured I might get some more looks here. Flange broke off the rear tube, any help would be appreciated. Stock preferred...thanks, Mike |
Skntpig
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 01:00 pm: |
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I think you can replace the flange if you can't find one. |
Snp304
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 01:37 pm: |
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I will take a pic of it tonight (at work right now) and post it up. I do not think a repair can be made. I might not be describing the broken part correctly |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 03:03 pm: |
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The head-end of the headers contain three pieces. The tube itself has a small flare on it. There is a large C-clip type piece that keeps the flange from coming off the end of the tube itself. There's the chrome flange with 2 bolt holes. If you didn't break the actual header tube...the other 2 can be sourced seperately, no problem. |
Snp304
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 04:46 pm: |
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When I took the nuts off the studs, I pulled the chrome flange back, the clip fell onto the ground. I was then looking at a jagged edge all the way around the tube. I quickly looked at the head and saw the small flare from the tube and the gasket...and immediately thought...."damn, that's not good" Basically left it at that since I had to leave for work...so my quest continues |
Skntpig
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 09:06 pm: |
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I think you'll find it's OK. You might need a new clip, or a new flange, or both. Part numbers 5931, 5932 and 5933 http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-c atshow/s1exhaust.html |
Snp304
| Posted on Monday, December 28, 2009 - 11:28 pm: |
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check out the pics, don't see how this could get fixed. I still have the clip, just did not include it in the pics. Sorry if they are too big.
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Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 11:27 am: |
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How about a pic of the full exhaust and the other end. It looks like this is either an aftermarket header or the stocker has been repaired by adding that piece in your hand in pic 1. Does the other side look the same? At any rate a good exhaust shop can get you going with what you have. Just have to make it the right length. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 11:49 am: |
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That's a new one on me. Looks like it may have been loose for a while (rear head? judging by the heat shield...), hammering the end around and mauling it. Made it weak at the clip groove, and it snapped off. My question is...looking at the pieces, is the loose piece in place of the gasket that mates the pipe to the head? There should be a metal particle-board piece in there that crushes when you torque the flange nuts. I don't have one loose right now...but the end of every pipe I've seen is "T" shaped, if that makes sense. |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 12:04 pm: |
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Snp304 - That is the factory primary and cup joint. Based on the chafing marks on the primary tube; it has been broken for a while and is easily repaired. The header manufacturer/supplier did not do a very good job welding the cup to the primary sometimes as evidence by this example…
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Snp304
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 03:47 pm: |
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So I should be able to take it to a "muffler " shop and have the joint re-welded? I had never seen anything like it before myself. I'm guessing it had been loose or that the weld had been partially broken for a while. Opinions? |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 04:25 pm: |
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Yes, exactly! The welder will have to build up the crown and dress it down as it has been hammered and burnt a little thin, but no big deal. (Message edited by Rickie_d on December 29, 2009) |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 04:42 pm: |
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Well I should qualify my previous statement by saying that it should be easily repaired by an average muffler shop, if: They can weld better than the original supplier… And they are set up to weld stainless steel like the original weld… You can have it welded with mild steel and it should not be a big deal since it is only about corrosion at the weld from the elements. However, due to the heat in the area and the fact the cup is all but buried in the exhaust port, a mild steel repair will be all but invisible unless inspected very closely. |
Joesbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 06:40 pm: |
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I'd personally would TIG weld it, most auto exhaust shops are used to welding quite heavy steel exhaust tube and I bet they will blow holes in them! The headers are very thin wall stainless and require a bit of skill to weld |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 07:17 pm: |
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Jodie - I agree, but most muffler shops just use a MIG like the original manufacturers weld and slather it on like glue. Like you said, you have to be talented to get good penetration and not blow holes everywhere. To compensate for that lack of skill, the manufacturer had the MIG set so cold that the welds have the high crown in my example and Mike’s weld failed. Mike – Not sure if it is worth it to you, but if you want to pay a round trip ticket for you’re your header to visit me in Minneeesooota, I will weld it for free. Fur-sure! It would take all of fifteen minutes to fix and dress the cup; I will even use stainless...Bonus!!!! |
Snp304
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 07:34 pm: |
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damn, now I am kind of scared to have it repaired. I do not want some hack destroying it. I was trying to get a deal set up for a replacement but am having a little trouble. I'll think about the round trip to Minnesota, that may be the best option, although I was trying to get it back on the road asap...it is my primary form of transportation... |
Joesbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 07:44 pm: |
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Once welded should be good as new...Don't stress mate! |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Tuesday, December 29, 2009 - 07:46 pm: |
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Mike - I would not be that concerned with having it repaired locally as long as you are confident in the shop. Just ask them to demonstrate a similar repair on the same gauge material. Tell them it is a difficult part to replace; if they are worth your money, they will prove their worth. |
Rich
| Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 07:44 am: |
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Have it fixed. It isn't a stock header, so you'd have to replace the can, too. I have a stock header, no muffler. West Volusia welding fixed mine, had the same problem. |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 03:05 pm: |
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Ummm Rich..., It is nice that we can at least agree that it is broke...and can be fixed! |
Snp304
| Posted on Wednesday, December 30, 2009 - 04:01 pm: |
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good news, cost $32 and it is good as new, back together and running like a champ. Glad I got some good info here, I was ready to buy another header....thanks for the info...BWB rules |
Rickie_d
| Posted on Thursday, December 31, 2009 - 12:44 am: |
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There you go, now that is rewarding!!! |