| Author |
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Puzzled
| | Posted on Friday, December 25, 2009 - 12:40 pm: | 
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These were installed on an 08 GSXR 1000. I have the mirrors from the bike so I'll have to check the bolt spacing to see if they are the same.
Pegasus block off plates.
Authorized GSD reseller.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=200388028457&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK %3AMESELX%3AIT |
Puzzled
| | Posted on Friday, December 25, 2009 - 12:43 pm: |
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If using a mirror extension plate what would be the intended way to cover the plate or end the stock rubber boot? I, like the rest of you can see very little with my mirrors the way they are now. I'm not into removing them as I tend to lead most of the rides so I need to know if anything is happening behind me. |
Marcodesade
| | Posted on Friday, December 25, 2009 - 03:57 pm: |
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Puzzled:
The extenders I see ( check the links above) appear to fit between the boot and the fairing, so they just continue the line created by the boot.
I had a "fantasy" of just a longer stalk, anodized black (like most other manufacturers use) so you wouldn't need the boot at all; it would need to be hollow so the wiring would fit inside. The immediate problem I see with this (aside from the fact that I'm personally incapable of fabricating it) is that it would probably end up intensifying the already-intolerable shaking of the mirror.
I'm personally resigned to just finding a good flush-mount signal (your's looks good) and running bar-end mirrors. |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 10:17 pm: |
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Jackgraves PMed me with a great idea--instead of beating on the rivets with a hammer to try to tighten them, why not remove the rivets entirely and replace them with a bolt? It made sense to me, so tonight I pulled both mirrors and ground off the rivets with my Dremel.
I did the grinding from the bottom side, where there are three black washers and then the rivet cap on the end. I started Dremeling in the groove between the rivet cap and the bottom washer. It took about 5 minutes to make it through. However, I then discovered that the "bolt" that the rivet is attached to apparently mushrooms out a tiny bit at the bottom and wouldn't slide through the holes. (I even tried a bit set of pliers but that wouldn't do the trick either.) I removed the three black washers and then cut off a tiny bit farther up the "bolt", which allowed me to get it out easily.
Now I just need to go to the hardware store and pick up some short but fat nuts and bolts to reattach the mirrors to their bases. Thanks for the idea, Jack! |
Bartimus
| | Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 10:34 am: |
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For my CR, I fabricated a simple set of brackets that moved the mirrors forward 1" and out 2".
Then painted them gloss black.
I'm thinking of making another set, that only goes forward .5" and out 2.5"
These work surprisingly well, and allow me to see out of three quarters of my mirrors |
Thefleshrocket
| | Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 02:15 pm: |
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Nicely done, Bartimus. I just wish the solution was that simple for the R models. |
Puzzled
| | Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 04:53 pm: |
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Thefleshrocket keep us posted as you progress. I'm curious how well this works. |
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