Author |
Message |
Sportycraig
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 07:22 am: |
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Buellers. I have a 1999 m2 it has done 4750 miles, my gearbox is making a knocking sound at idle, the noise seems to be coming from the drive side, any ideas. thanks craig |
Buell_bert
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 09:23 am: |
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Just off hand did you check the primary chain tension? |
Sloppy
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 11:49 am: |
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Definitely sounds like chain tension. Would be a good opportunity to upgrade to the improved chain tensioner shoe as well! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 02:20 pm: |
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Check PRIMARY CHAIN TENSION and correct to 3/4 inch on tight spot ... When adjusted to FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL SPEC's you get a CRAPPY SHIFTING TRANSMISSION, false neutrals, and other mystery problems ... Too much TRANS. OIL or not enought also causes problems ... |
Buell_bert
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 03:33 pm: |
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As far as the primary fluid, just drain it on the level and add 1 quart. It will not cause any problems. I had one of mine get dumped over at the S&S 50th during the rain/street flood in La Crosse in over 2 feet of water and had to change the primary fluid over 12 times (just to get it clean). And there were plenty of other bikes with many more problems but they were my Brothers or Friends. I had to run for parts. OH and I still use 15w-40 wt. oil. (Message edited by Buell_Bert on December 17, 2009) |
Mick
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 04:45 pm: |
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I'd be checking the compensator nut on the crank, that makes a knocking rumbly noise at idle, mine did. |
Fullauto
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 05:37 pm: |
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One quart is too much. Can't remember the exact amount, but it's less than a bottle. |
14d
| Posted on Thursday, December 17, 2009 - 06:23 pm: |
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28 oz read this somewhere, not the FSM apparently. (Message edited by 14d on December 18, 2009) |
Littlebuggles
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 12:38 am: |
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My bike began to make a knocking noise following the top end rebuild at the shop, sounded very bad, like I was going to throw a rod. Turned out the nut inside the primary, the big one up front (crankshaft I guess) was loose. It had not been snugged up to the newer torque spec and had spun loose. |
Buell_bert
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 12:48 pm: |
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My factory service manual (#99491-00y) for 1999-2000 M2 Cyclone page 1-26 and 2-1 say capacity is 1 qt. Also factory service manual (#99491-02y) for 2002 M2 Cyclone pages 1-23 and 2-1 also say capacity is 1 qt.They also say level should be even with the bottom of the clutch diaphram spring. Good luck. |
Kalali
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 01:55 pm: |
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Like a lot of other things the "correct" value is not the same as what is shown in the FSM. 28 oz. is the "correct" amount per input from folks who have owned and maintained Tubers for many many combined years and miles. I would take their input over the FSM any day of the week. |
14d
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 02:02 pm: |
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yep, just double checked FSM it calls for a quart in one spot and "approximately a quart" in another section. 28 oz is much closer to the actual correct level. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 02:13 pm: |
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Dump in a whole quart bottle, but don't let it sit there and drain every last of oil out. The oil still clinging to inside of the bottle will be the extra you don't need to add. 5 XL-based bikes and not an issue to be had with this method. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, December 18, 2009 - 07:09 pm: |
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The PROPER and CORRECT way to check the TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL is: with the BIKE on LEVEL GROUND and PERFECTLY UP-RIGHT, the OIL should up and JUST TOUCH the SPRING,diaphragm(clutch) PN 36792-91 ... A PICTURE of this is in my 1997 FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, Figure 1-20, Fluid ,on Page 1-22 ... How much the transmission holds is just for endless conversation, "BUT" getting the oil to the "CORRECT LEVEL" is "WHAT COUNTS" ... |
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