| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
Let me clarify my stupid post above... I've read that running synthetic oil reduces the amount of oil mist spat out the breather. I'm looking for any qualifications or disqualifications of such statements. -Saro | ||
| Lake_bueller |
To everyone that gave input into my oil situation...THANKS!!! It wasn't until after reading the replies (and trying to remember back to November) that I realized I didn't have the bike up to temp last winter. I drained the oil before moving the bike into the spare bedroom for some winter maintenance. I changed the filter at that time. When it came time to get things rolling again, I added the "normal" amount of oil. I went home the other night and drained about 1 1/4 quarts of fine Mobil 1 V-Twin oil. Smoke went away and oil levels reading normal again. What's the old saying...When something isn't working right, go back to the last thing you did before things got screwed up  | ||
| Wman |
When I switched to Mobil 1,there was a lot less oil appearing in my catch can. I'm not sold on the SYN 3, don't know if it a full synthetic or a coventional base stock with synthetic additives. I have seen Mobil R&D first hand,made me a believer. | ||
| Blake |
Synthetic oils generally have a significantly higher vaporization temperature than conventional oils. No oil vapor in breather, no oil mist forms. That's one theory anyway. It might also have something to do with the superior mechanical properties of synthetics. Buellistic, If I had conventional oil in the Cyclone while racing, it would have been totally cooked. Temperature in the oil tank was 245oF! | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: Thats why "i" went to SCREAMN'EAGLE SYC3... Run a BUELL hard makeing "HP" and the oil $ engine "TEMPERTURE" go up... Thats why "i" run a "OIL COOLER" and "COOLING FAN"... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Blake |
Cool (pun intended)  | ||
| Anonymous |
At 1,000 miles I changed the engine/swingarm and primary/gearbox oil out to Harlee's Syn3. The cooling fan began coming on more often than before and shortly thereafter a worrisome clanking noise developed from the primary side. My bike (race kitted) was compared with a stock XB9 and my oil was found to be 15 degrees hotter than the conventional Harley oil. At 1400 miles the engine oil and filter was replaced with Mobil 1 V Twin synthetic mixed with 2 fluid ounces of Kal Gard's Engine Gard (molybdenum disulfide) and the bike now runs cooler and the seat of the pants power increase feels noticeable although the latter could just be my imagination. At 1485 miles the primary/gearbox was drained and replaced with Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic and neutral is now VERY easy to find and the clanking sound has gone into remission. Syn 3 might be the ticket for the big twins or the earlier Buells but it didn't work out too well in my bike. Name withheld, please, due to being a dealership employee. | ||
| Rick_a |
I don't buy the HD Syn3...literally. I ran HD conventional oil for around 2000 miles and was so displeased I've never and probably will never use another HD lubricant again. It's always been Castrol or Mobil 1 synthetics for me. The difference between Sporttrans and synthetic gear oil is pretty dramatic, too. Makes ya wonder... Buellistic...What fan are you using? The Buell fan? Not a bad idea...but I don't think it'd be entirely necessary. I didn't know NAPA sold those clamps...cool...I bet the employees at my local store don't know either... | ||
| Hoser |
Rick : So , .....what makes you so "displeased" , to NEVER want to use HD lubricants again. Just Curious , not wanting to start a pissing contest about lubricants. Coming from a guy who has NEVER used anything but HD lubricants and filters. Oh ya I might mention , I rebuild lots of engines , I can always tell when cheap oil has been used , the cases are usually stained and gunked up with brown crud. | ||
| Buellistic |
Rick_a & BUELLDOM: Installed BUELL S3/S3T COOLING FAN KIT P/NZ0008.M... Used HDI20W50 untill 60K then went to SCREAMN"EAGLE SYC3(eng $ trans) and planning for another 60K... Have ran a FORD Motorcraft FL-1A from early on(safty wired of course)... Have a 97S3T and the "TOP-END" has never been OFF(orignal owner)... Have a "OIL TEMPATURE GUAGE" in the return line to oil tank... On a hard ride the gauge indicates the oil runs cooler and when "i" get on it realy hard and the Temp goes up, it drops back sooner when "i" get off it(also runnig a sportster oil cooler)... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Rick_a |
It ran hotter, rougher, consumed a lot of oil (~1/4 quart every 500 miles), motor pinged leaving long stoplights... Switched back to full synthetic and all the above problems disappeared. | ||
| Rick_a |
Does the fan stay on when you shut the bike off like the XB's? | ||
| Buellistic |
Rick_a & BUELLDUM: On my BUELL the "TEMP SW" is marked to come on at a head temp of 180 degrees... Therefor it comes on when ran "HARD" or "WITHIN MINUTES" after"i" turn off IGN ... Noticed my fan comes on a minute or so later with SYC3... "i" would think the "TEMP SW" on the FIEBOLT models would be the the same... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Aesquire |
I'm trying the new SYC3, after 90 miles thruway @ 75-80 mph the whole way, (um, unprofessional rider on closed course, not public roads, no sir, not me) less than a teaspoon of milky fluid in my catchcan. Shifting had improved a bit too. That said, I'll run Castrol Syntec on the next oil change, (and Mobil Gear stuff, by your advice) The H-D stuff seems fine, just pricey. | ||
| Roadrunr |
help I think my dealer is pulling my chain again.Any of you buellers have your oil lines dry rot? I developed a massive oil leak on my 00 X1 that comes from somewhere on the front of the case(underneath) and blows all the way to my back tire.The dealer is telling me it's dry rotted oil lines, The bike never has seen rain and it lives in the garage. I found some seepage on the center case gasket. me thinks the dealer don't want to mess with that though. | ||
| Buellistic |
Roadrunr: Thats another new one on me... Run this by Dawg on ATC as he is the Tech Guru for the Board... Have a 97S3T(original owner) with 60,403.5 miles on the odometer as of the last ride... Has the original oil hoses... When the engine is at operating temperature the max oil pressure is about 20lbs and at 1K idle very little pressure... "i" would have checked out the oil leak myself before taking to Dealer... In fact "i" would have fixed it myself(Harley-Davidson University Class of 59)... "MAY THE OILY BUELL BE NOT WITH YOU" "MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU" In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Blake |
Roadrunr, Dry rot is a fungal or bacterial attack of wood and other materials that such microbes find appetizing. Ask the tech to save the piece of "rotted" oil line. If it is indeed compromised, you will be able to easily see it. Sounds suspicious to me, but lying about such a problem is silly as it would soon become evident in unabated oil leakage. Buellistic, Run it by "Dawg" on ATC? WTF LaFayette? Sending someone to another site for tech advice? Are you serious? I guess we should just shut down the BBS and all go to ATC instead. Sure would save me a lot of hassle. Thanks for your great advice and support amigo. The above is not to take anything away from Mr. Dawg. I'm sure he is a fine technical expert on all things Buell. In addition I would suggest Roadrunr write/email the tech editor at Cycle World. Maybe he can answer your questions too. Apparently no one here is capable of advising on this problem. | ||
| Bomber |
Road . . . . . Blake's right on, and, since you likely didn't buy the wooden oil line option, you gots another problem I had a similar problem, and diagnosed it as a deteriorated oil line (on a different bike altogher), and the Gates rep told me that the line had hardened due to age, exposure to the crappy atmosphere (Chicago-ish), and heat, the last caused by the line resting reeeeeaaallllly close to the exhaust header (my doing, mea culpa) . . . . the line was over 12 years old, and it looked like, ehem, dog poop . . .. to add insult to injury, it took me a couple of month to diagnose, as it was a braided line, and the seepage was really close to a fitting (which was replaced several times, teflon taped, and smeared with squirrel blood just to be safe) . .. . put on yer grubbies, wash the bike, let it run and see where the leak is REALLY coming from . . . .it could be a line, but I'm betting its more likely a poorly fastened fitting, or a leaking fitting of less urgency and greater import, I'd suggest you find a new dealer | ||
| Roadrunr |
well I shot over to the dealer as soon as they opened this morning and they had already installed the new oil lines. I will pick the bike up later today as soon as the service manager tells me the leak is fixed for sure. If it's not, well I guess they just gave away new oil lines  Thank for the info guys but my guess is the bikes still gonna puke like a drunk school girl. | ||
| Blake |
Does the bike puke oil from the crankcase breather too? | ||
| Roadrunr |
No Blake, that was a figure of speech. Ok it will be leaking like a school boy at a keg party. Better?  | ||
| Bomber |
Road . . . .I had a small leak from the fitting leading into the front of the oil pump . . . you know, the fitting the shock reservoir is hose-clamped to? seems it came loose during the shock upgrade squaredance (2000 M2) . . . had the hose clamp been tightened down like it could have been (i.e., in the worng place), I can see how it could have worn through the hose . . . . . if I were the service guy at the dealership, I think I would not have wanted to admit that a ham-handed chucklelhead had caused your problem . . . I hope I wouldn't have tried to mislead you, though (dry rot . . . .that one made me grin) | ||
| Aesquire |
Rubber rots from ozone & sulfuric acid vapors, mostly. LA smog, leaky battery, bike parked next to an old refrigerator for years. It's common on 1940-80's cars, rare on 90's, on a '00?? Do you park it near an electrical gizmo? Does your garage smell like a thunderstorm? (not the heads)does a cigarette burst into flames where you park?  | ||
| Roadrunr |
Bomber, Well now that is interesting, since I had it in for the shock upgrade about 2 months ago. Aesquire, No, No, and No. But a cigarette does usually start on fire everytime I park & everywhere I park......  | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: re: your post 14May03 9:19AM... No "OFFENCE" intended... When you spread the "BUELLSCHITT" around the is no telling what you might learn!!! There is always someone else in "BUELLDOM" smarter... Got my BUELL punishment today as my front motor mount broke(have 60,579.9 miles)...Was 90 miles from home... First time "i" had a flat tire in STURGUS in 99... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Blake |
I'm pretty biased when it comes to technical content. I've not seen any other source than can remotely rival the knowledge base (read people) comprising BadWeB. Bummer on the front motor mount. Did it cause you any tense moments? | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: "i" solemnly swear(throttle hand raised and clutch hand resting resting upon the 1997 SERVICE MANUAL P/N93489-97Y $ 1997-1998 PARTS CATALOG P/N99570-98Y) never to do that again!!! Having lost the REAR ISOLATORS(can ride it home if you loose these) "i" realized that the front motor mount(feels like riding an 883) had broken hearing a cracking sound... Pulling off to the side of the road confirmed same... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Mikej |
Buellistic, got a pic of the broken mount? Did the stud in the head break, the stud mount, or the apendage the engine hangs from, or something else? | ||
| Buellistic |
Mikej: Do have picutres... As you set on the BUELL... The left head bolt broke flush with the head... The right side could not carry the load and the isolator(front motor mount) broke one inch up from the head of the right bolt... In buelling LaFayette | ||
| Mikej |
Ouch, thanks for the followup. |
