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Andymnelson
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 04:50 pm: | 
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Pics as promised of my Polly Grips heated grips:
What comes in the package- basically just the heaters, some insulation, a switch and some hardware:
The heaters:
The switch I installed. This took some doing, and is not a project for the faint of heart! I ran wires up inside of the factory wire loom (with the starter and kill switch wires), then opened up the hole. An easier (but $57) option would be to buy a Ulysses switch assembly that already has heated grip switch in it:
Where I wired it all up. Running off of a relay:
Where I tapped into wiring. I used the accessory "third eye" wiring. Should be plenty of power there, since the heaters only draw 1.5 amps each or 18 watts:
Where I ran the wires into the right bar:
Where I ran the wires into the left bar:
The finished product. I think it looks decent. I'm a bit of a geek when it comes to the look of my mods. I want them to look "factory". So use grommets and shrink wrap and zip ties where necessary:
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Djkaplan
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 05:15 pm: |
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Now that's a quality post.
Stuff like this is why I come here. |
Metalstorm
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 05:29 pm: |
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Pollys rock. They have two settings, HOT and OUCH!
I've had them a couple years now and can not imagine being with out them.
With a little splicing, the Buell OEM switch can be used for that factory look.
Original Polly switch. I chose a sucky place to put it.
I found a small switch that I installed in my right hand control. Better than the first one but still not quite right.
Ahhhh.. Finally. This works really good on my 05. (no accessory plug, just a lot of electrical hokus pokus)
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Xbniner
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 06:07 pm: |
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So you just slide that copper heating element inside the bar? Would these work on a Firebolt? The clip on bars would make it difficult. |
Nillaice
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 06:25 pm: |
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nice heated grips, but for gear i recommend Frank Thomas' ANTIFREEZE. got my stuff at my local cycle gear a while back. great stuff |
Packrat
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 07:12 pm: |
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Gerbing heated gloves with infinite setting switch for me..can set the temperature to meet the conditions, switch clips to tank bag!!! |
Glitch
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 11:26 pm: |
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Andymnelson
| | Posted on Friday, September 05, 2008 - 11:44 pm: |
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"So you just slide that copper heating element inside the bar? Would these work on a Firebolt? The clip on bars would make it difficult."
Yes. That's actually what I like about them- you don't have the wires exposed to break like the kind that wrap around the bars. I just rode a while with them (it's 58 degrees out) and they are great!
I would question the ability of a clip on to remain strong with the holes drilled for the wires. I've been trying to figure this out too, as I have a Buell Blast with clip ons that I would like to fit with a set. I will certainly post up what I come up with for that!} |
Metalstorm
| | Posted on Saturday, September 06, 2008 - 01:17 am: |
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Thanks Glitch! 
Now I'm thinking about how I can wire a grill up up to that switch so I can cook some eggs & bacon on my way to work each morning 
Toast might be a problem |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 10:29 am: |
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48 degrees out this morning and the ride was great thanks to a new gaiter and Polly heated grips!
Thanks again to the users here for their input and opinions/experience. Especially to Buffalobolt for this statement that made me say "Duh!" and actually order up the grips:
"NO BIKE SHOULD BE WITHOUT HEATED GRIPS! (my opinion) For the $25 bucks that they cost ($50 if you include a new set of grips) they are the best bargain in motorcycling! They are always there for use. How may times have you been out and had a cold rainy day. Throw the switch and it feels GREAT." |
Tm74
| | Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 11:19 am: |
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I get cold fairly easy. A heated jacket liner is heaven. If you get one make sure to use it with a variable heat controller.
I also have heated grips and heated gloves. As someone mentioned, heated gloves tend to be a pain in the arse. My gloves plug into the ends of my jacket liner so it's not as bad as having to run wires down your sleeves for them. Even with that they are still a pain IMO.
I'm trying something new this winter. I bought a set of hippo hands. They look ridiculous but I'm hoping they do the trick. Nearly everyone who uses them give them good reviews. I can give a review when it gets cold enough to try them out. Most people report that they block the wind so well that they use their normal non-winter riding gloves. I'm hoping this is my final solution for my hands and I can ditch the heated gloves.
http://www.hippohands.com/Hippo%20Hands.htm |
Chippy
| | Posted on Monday, September 08, 2008 - 12:08 pm: |
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i'm running these...with the switch on the side of the windscreen as pictured above.
cheap and toasty.
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Prod uct.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=p391957 &leafCatId=&mmyId=
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Gambit
| | Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2008 - 07:48 pm: |
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andrew- i just ordered polly heaters myself and will be attempting to wire it the way you did, do you mind letting me know what exact kind of relay/connector you used? thanks in advance... |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:05 am: |
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Hey Noel, I of course replied to your PM's also, but thought it might be good info to put here-
No problems- I get most of my install parts form partsexpess.com-
super fast shipping and great prices. Or go to Radio Shack armed with
the knowledge of what you need. I'm going to assume you know nothing
of what you need to do, so forgive me if this is too much info!
Get this relay or similar:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partn umber=330-079
Use these for connectors:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partn umber=095-302
If you need a cheap crimper for the connectors:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partn umber=360-620
The relay has 5 connectors on it. You will only use 4 of them. A relay
is just a switch, triggered electrically. Here's what I did:
I installed a switch on my handlebars- it has 2 wires, wire 1 to
ground, the other to the relay terminal labeled "85"
Relay terminal "86" gets 12 v positive
Relay terminal "30" gets 12 v positive
Relay terminal "87" goes to one wire on each of the Polly Grip heaters
Relay terminal "87a" does not get used
The other Polly grip wire gets ground
Basically what the relay does is when it sees positive and ground on
the 85 and 86 terminals, it connects 30 to 87. So when the switch is
off, there is no ground on 85, and the relay disconnects 30 and 87.
Switch on gives ground to 85 (there's already positive on 86), and the
relay connect 30 to 87, turning on the grips.
I attached a little drawing that might help also. |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:06 am: |
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Andymnelson
| | Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 11:07 am: |
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Noel also asked this:
andrew,
thanks for the info on parts and the diagram, i have a better idea now of what to do except for 2 more questions:
1)did you tap from the "park light wiring" for both positive lines ("86" & "30")?
2)where did you line/tap for ground?
thank you for taking the time to educate me in this regard...
My reply:
On the Lightnings, the headlight plug has 4 wires: ground, low beam,
high beam, and an unused 4th wire that is used in European countries
that require an accessory headlight to always be on. This 4th wire
always has power when the key is on. Should be red or red with a
stripe.
I used that wire for both positive lines, and the black wire in that
harness for the ground. Since the Polly Grip heaters that I bought
have a fairly low current draw, there should be no issues with using
these wires. I have used mine a ton and had no problems.
The other alternative would be to run wires back to the fuse block in
the tail, which I knew I did not want to do since there is no space to
run the wires on these bikes! This method keeps it simple. I got the
idea from other BadWebbers who have wired other accessories to this
location with similar success.
Hope this helps! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, September 26, 2008 - 12:51 pm: |
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Hey! PartsExpress is right down the street from my work. I get lots of my stuff direct from their showroom.
I wired in a HID, which went direct to the battery via relay. I then used the old low beam line (which was already engineered to pull about the same watts as these heaters) to run the heaters.
Works fine, except when you turn on the high beams Took me a bit to figure that one out... I just left it like that since with the HID's the high beam is useless for anything except maybe "flash to pass". |
Johnnymceldoo
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 29, 2008 - 01:31 pm: |
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How long do the polly heaters take to heat?
Reepi, parts express is literally 500 yards or so from my work. Nice showroom. |
Fahren
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:54 pm: |
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'Tis the season for heated grips - thinking this year might be my turn. Thanks for the write-up and recommendations. I'm looking at the polly grip heaters, the 400 model for bikes, with high/low control.
I found this how-to write up, by a guy with a Firebolt. He used a pre-made wiring/relay assembly, but his wiring diagram (see the article) is completely different than what you show for your on/off only setup.
On Andy's diagram, I like how the power flow is controlled by the switch but the heaters' power goes through the relay, not the switch. Kinda thought that was the reason to have a relay! Anyway, on the other write-up, the guy has power to the grips running from the relay to the switch, and the heaters high and low leads are also run to the switch. It seems to be set up very different from Andy's.
Here is the write-up I saw: http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/heated-grips-eval uation-71386.html
And the pre-assembled wiring setup he used:http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Heated_ Grips/Install/install.html
and:
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Heated_ Grips/heated_grips.html
I am not an electrical engineer or guru, so I can't evaluate the "right" way on my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I think it would apply to any heated grip setup, no matter which type and brand one chooses. |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 11:14 pm: |
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I used a different switch than what came with the heaters, and I did not want current running through the switch for 2 reasons: 1) lower current switch, and 2) VERY tight wiring where I ran it all, and if something did rub through all that would happen is it might ground to the bars or something and provide a ground to one side of the relay...not really a big deal.
DEFINITELY get the 2 position ones! Those are HOT and TOO HOT, where as the ones I used in this install are just TOO HOT! |
Andymnelson
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 11:06 am: |
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A new diagram for those who want to use the 2-position heaters:
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Fahren
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 15, 2009 - 05:32 pm: |
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Andy, thanks again for the great information. This thread has kind of evolved into a KV type of how-to thread... hope people will find it here and get some good use out of it. |
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