| Author | Message | ||
     Mongo1 |
Hi Guys, Well I decided to change my oil at 200mi and put in regular for the break in. Well I was wondering if this was a normal amount of metal/oil sludge in the drain plug. /IMG0117A.jpg}    (Message edited by mongo1 on December 07, 2009) | ||
| R100rs |
shawn,i changed mine at 200 miles also,looked the same as yours.its running strong 1000 miles later. stewart | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Wow that filter looks bad. It's been almost 3 years, but I don't recall my first filter looking like that. | ||
| Vosnick52 |
my drain plug and filter looked just like that. change it and ride  | ||
| Keef |
i went the whole 600 miles before i changed my oil and filter my plug had a little pastey metal but my filter looked almost new...  | ||
| Sknight |
I went 625 miles to the first change, my plug looked like that and the filter was the same color, don't remember about the chunky stuff. So long as it's just paste it's not a big deal. | ||
| Dammitquikgentry |
I got a smidge over 100 on the clock and I'm gonna change it before winter. So that's normal for it to look like that? Wow | ||
| Ccryder |
Usually the first 40-100 miles is enough to flush the engine of manufacturing left- overs and any thing generated during initial breakin. Mine looked like that at the 60 mile change. After that I saw a little and a little less at each subsequent change. After 31,000 miles, she is running stronger and stronger. | ||
| Unique_id |
Changed my oil at 54 miles for winter storage. I was going to take pictures but forgot. My plug looked exactly the same; didn't change the filter; I'll do full oil change at 100 miles in the spring. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I first changed my oil at 200 miles of relatively hard breakin and it had about a quarter to a third of that much gook on the plug and filter. Don't know if that's good, bad, or indifferent, just a data point. KeS | ||
| Dirty_john |
Yep, I changed the oil in my 09 1125R at 200 miles and the plug looked like yours but the filter in my bike was not as bad as yours. | ||
| Moosestang |
My plug looked the same, full to the brim with gray goo at 115 miles. My filter looked like new though and I reinstalled it. Even at 600 miles the filter didn't look like yours. | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
Same here....Plug looked just as bad, but my filter looked brand new still...but I did my first oil change at 50mi. | ||
| Swamp2 |
Same here....Plug looked just as bad, but my filter looked brand new still...but I did my first oil change at 50mi. Did mine at 53 miles. Plug looked the same as yours - totally filled with grey sludge. I didn't check the filter then. But I changed oil & filter at 300 miles - my plug was almost completely clean, and the filter still looked fine (but I changed it anyway). Then I tucked it away for the winter...  | ||
| Jng1226 |
Changed mine oil only at 50 miles, the plug looked exactly the same, filled with grey sludge. Must be something they use in final assembly. Didn't change the filter until 600 miles with the oil again and it looked OK. Perhaps that sludge stuff is supposed to dissolve? On a related note, I used the Motoman break-in method (using full throttle to put pressure on the rings but not exceeding max break-in RPM) and just went to the track at 1000 miles. after 1.5 hours of track time using rev-limiter shifts and high-rpm downshifts the bike consumed exactly ZERO oil. Awesome! Jeff | ||
| Cheddarheads4erik |
Changed mine @ 90 miles and looked the same-silvery sludge. Now for the 400 miles change....it's all good.  | ||
| Ccryder |
Just a silly question..... Why would you not change your oil filter when you change your oil????? I could understand back at the start of production there was limited availability of filters but now they are readily available. IMHO I wouldn't take the chance on my engine, yes you are taking a BIG chance if you don't change your filter. Just my $0.02. | ||
| Froggy |
The service manual says to only change it at every other service. | ||
| Ccryder |
I guess I'm just old fashioned and I like the added bit of longevity insurance. Especially on the first oil change, why take the chance when the most contamination is likely to be present. | ||
| Cheddarheads4erik |
Ahh, fer sure. The first few changes should include an oil filter change, but that's in my garage. The first 300 miles are pretty crucial, IMHO. YMMV. | ||
| Unique_id |
I didn't change my filter because I just wanted to get all that sludge out for the winter. In the spring time I'll put in a new filter. | ||
| Moosestang |
Just a silly question..... Why would you not change your oil filter when you change your oil????? Why change the oil at 50, 100, 200, etc.? Why do you constantly ask this question every time an oil post pops up? Why does the manual skip filter changes? I didn't have a filter at the time, but did have oil. Who knows how long the original oil had been sitting in there and the bike being run for a couple of seconds while the salesman revved it up for a customer. Why would someone rev a could engine? (Message edited by moosestang on December 08, 2009) | ||
| Puredrive |
The drained plug looked the same and the oil was the same color. But m oil filter looked normal. I changed my oil at 450Miles | ||
| Gotlime |
Changed mine at 450. Plug looked the same. Filter did not look like that. My oil seemed "watery" and an odd color though. I'm glad I changed the oil...........and the filter...........and the washers. | ||
| Ccryder |
Kevin: "I didn't change my filter because I just wanted to get all that sludge out for the winter. " You lost me on this "logic". Art: With all the new owners lately, I like to try and spread our collective experience. Maybe it's just me but when I do scheduled service, I try and be prepared. I usually have 1-3 filters on the shelf since I ride ~700- 1000 miles/ week. Feel free to hit the delete key ;+}. Later Neil S. | ||
| D_adams |
Molybdenum disulfide grease is probably most of what you guys are seeing. It's been used in engine assembly for a loooooong time and looks like dark gray sludge on the first oil change. This is normal and also why they recommend an early oil change, since it will partially plug an oil filter. Go by an auto parts store and ask to see some, it's a medium gray paste and it's fairly tacky or thick feeling. | ||
| Unique_id |
"You lost me on this "logic"." Well, to keep my explanation short: I could have done nothing, as the dealership would have done if they had not sold the bike and let it sit with the original oil for months until spring and then the buyer, if going by the manual, would have ridden it 600 miles until the first oil change. Or, since it only has 50 miles (how bad can the filter be?; and by reading above posts, maybe not that bad, as I had assumed) and I am not going to run the engine with the old filter in the spring. I could at least get *most* of the "bad" oil out and rinse the engine. What did I save? 20 bucks and 2 minutes? In comparison is it good? I thought so. Is it ideal? no, you're right. | ||
| Dirty_john |
yep agree it is most probably Moly paste form engine assembly, have used it myself for years when rebuilding engines, never seen an oil filter clogged like that with it though | ||
| Ccryder |
Kevin you just had me confused (today that's kinda easy ;+}). FWIW for the last 10 or so years living in this part of the country, I don't let the bike sit long enough to worry about used oil or gas going bad during the winter. It's rare that my rides sit for more than 2 weeks w/o some miles. We just don't get cold enough weather to keep me off the roads. A 25-30F dry day is all I need as an excuse to ride. | ||
| Swamp2 |
We just don't get cold enough weather to keep me off the roads. A 25-30F dry day is all I need as an excuse to ride. I'm guessing you're a younger man than I. Seems like I've fallen into the pattern of "temp must be >= my age" before I'm excited about riding - at least a naked bike like the CR. Full fairings buy 10 years/degrees. The CR is now hibernating for a few months here in upstate NY - that's why I changed my oil & filter! |
