| Author | Message | ||
     Jornum1 |
Sorry if this has been covered, didnt find anything when I searched in the 1125 forum. It has been discussed that load resistors are needed to return the flash rate back to normal after installing aftermarket led signals. I am a electrical dummy when it comes to ohms, watts, volts, ect. I see many different resistors at different ohms and watts. What would be best for the 1125r? 6 ohm, 50 watt(listed for cbr) 6 ohm, 60 watt 8 ohm, 100 watt ect, ect... Any insight in choosing the correct one would be great. I just want to get my flash rate down to close to normal speed. Thanks | ||
| Badlionsfan |
Since the stock signals are LED's, I don't think you should need a resistor. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. | ||
| Jornum1 |
I know for a fact that you need the resistors. The factory leds have resistors built in. The flasher relay is built into the 1125's gauge cluster. So you cant change that like on the xb's. I just need to know what variety is best to use. | ||
| Ratbuell |
There has to be some sort of resistor involved, because when, for example, an '08 1125R loses its rear signals you get the "bulb out" fast-flash. I suspect it's built into the turn signal circuit board somewhere. And, since the signals are run by the instrument cluster on an 1125, you can't just put in the $20 American Sport Bike flasher, either.... If you have a multimeter (this is to the OP), set it for the little horseshoe symbol. That's ohms (resistance). One lead from the tester to each (unplugged) LED wire, and you'll have your ohm value (think of it as a garden hose - resistance tells you how big the garden hose is from one side of the circuit to the other, and how much resistance there is across it because of that. a bigger hose equals more water/electricity and lower resistance; smaller hose equals less water / more resistance). Watts should be pretty low - that translates to "how much power used", and LEDs are low-draw. But if you have that multimeter out, set it for W and connect it to the bike side wires for the signal. Turn on the signal and you should get a reading. Then 0. Then reading. Then 0 (it's flashing). If you get a negative number, it's a true value, you just have the leads hooked up "backwards". You can still use the number, or you can switch the leads. Multimeters are as invaluable as a shop manual in my mind. Even if you only use them to check a circuit in question for voltage. You don't need a $500 Fluke, either. Just the $14.99 Radio Shack model will do ya for stuff like this. | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thanks Rat, I do have a multi meter and am semi familiar with it. I will try what you said. So if I understand this correctly... The wattage listed for the resistor is the wattage coming from the motorcycle when it signals. And the ohms listed is the resistance from the new aftermarket signal? I just match these up and I should be good to go? | ||
| Millerwb |
Scroll down. I am not an electrician but it worked for me... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/515170.html -Bill | ||
| Avc8130 |
Jornum, Here is what you need: Use your multimeter to obtain the resistance of the stock signal. This is the ohm value resistor you will need. Next you have to do a LITTLE math. You need to figure out what wattage they should be rated for. This is how much POWER the resistor will have to handle to operate given the bikes voltage and the resistance load. P=VI V=IR Let's substitute: P=V^2/R Use 14 for 15 for V as the bike charges around 14.4. Solve for P and that is how many watts the resistor SHOULD be rated for if it was 100% duty. The signals are 50% duty (half on/half of over operating time). This means you COULD cheat with a smaller wattage resistor. ac | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I replaced just the front signals, and used a 22ohm 10w resistor in parallel with each one. $.99 for the pack of two at Frys, stuck one leg in each bullet connector as I crimped them on the new leads. 6ohm (nominal for an 1157 bulb replacement, so commonly available) didn't work. 48ohm seems to work as well as 22ohm, but clearly not needed. Higher wattage would run cooler, but more bulky, your call. KeS | ||
| Ratbuell |
10W seems to be the norm, since incandescent bulbs for turn signals are typically 10w. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
AVC - that's the problem, you can't just use a multimeter to determine the cold resistance of the stock signal. It's an LED with a diode and god knows what else going on; you don't get a resistance unless the circuit is powered. You need an ammeter to measure the draw and come at it that way. I didn't have one suitable so just played with resistor values. KeS (Message edited by kevin_stevens on December 03, 2009) | ||
| Thedavyboy |
I replaced my front ones with an aftermarket set cause I installed bar end mirrors and they work the same way as the originals ! | ||
| Avc8130 |
KeS, Aww crap...forgot about that! ac | ||
| Moosestang |
I replaced my front ones with an aftermarket set cause I installed bar end mirrors and they work the same way as the originals ! Can you post a link to the signals you used? I replaced my fronts with some flush mounts leds and it flashed fast. I then added the led strips in the pods connected to the same wires and it went back to normal flash rate. | ||
| Jornum1 |
thanks guys, appreciate it. I was looking on radioshack, I didnt see any 22ohm 10w resistors, but I did find 50ohm 10w and 10ohm 10w I am thinking the 50ohm? Would either of these work/ WOuld I be at any risk of blowing my leds, or anything else if I tried. They are only $2 each for a pack of 2. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
I can't say what you're at risk for, but the 50ohm will slow the blink rate on a 2009 1125. I don't know about a 10ohm, but neither a 6 nor an 8 did for me. A 22 did. KeS | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thanks Kes, I will give them a try. My signals were only 14.99 anyway. I think they are a great deal for what I paid. Much brighter then the hot bodies set I was using before. Here is a pic  | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Looks like the ones I have except mine are smoked lenses. KeS | ||
| Bartimus |
What you need is 10 OHM and 25 WATT resistor for two of your turn signals. If you just replaced the front then use them there. Install them like Kevin said, one leg in each lead, one resistor per turn signal. (I replaced all four on my CR and only used a resistor on each rear turn signal, and they work fine, just like stock) I also used a heat sink with each of mine, this can also be purchased at radio shack. The heat sink will help dissipate heat while the turn signals are working. | ||
| Jornum1 |
hmm interesting, thanks guys for all the help. Looks like I am heading to the shack tomorrow morning. I will let you know how it works out. I will probably try Barts plan first, and buy the 50ohm 10w's also. I can always return them if they arent needed. | ||
| Thedavyboy |
Moosestang got them from D2Moto . Click on led turn signals . go to the second page and the ones I bought were the ( Universal Motorcycle amber type 4 ) Work just like the originals , just wire them in . Under $20 for the pair . | ||
| Jornum1 |
Thedavyboy, thats the same place I got mine. If you look at the last line on the 2nd page those are the ones I pictured. Also after doing a little more digging, I found the 50ohm 10w resistors have 2 of the 3 reviews being for the purpose we are discussing. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?produc tId=2062291&tab=custRatings#showReviews They dont seem to sell the ones Bart was talking about. So I think I will try these and get back to you guys tomorrow. |
