| Author | Message | ||
     Cme2c |
So, there was a great thread on the CR high bar conversion a couple weeks ago - it had pictures and how to bend the brackets on the throttle body. I can't seem to find it in the archives. Does anyone have a link to that thread? I'm in the middle of my conversion and want to double check my work! | ||
| Pwillikers |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/512154.html | ||
| 03firebolt9r |
Does anybody have the size of the CR high bar? Is it a 1 1/8 tapered bar? | ||
| Cme2c |
Thanks for the link! And yes, the bars are 1 1/8 center and 7/8 ends. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Hmm...I had the complete OPPOSITE issue. If I tried what was shown in that video my pull cable was too tight to even get on. I installed it like a normal cable and everything worked great. ac | ||
| 03firebolt9r |
Thanks Cme2c. | ||
| Pwillikers |
What is meant by "make the cable as short as possible"? Does it mean to make the combined length of the cable sleeve and the adjustment barrels as short as possible by screwing the adjustment barrels all the way in towards the cable sleeve thereby permitting maximum inner cable free length? (Message edited by pwillikers on November 28, 2009) | ||
| Nickg |
you don't need to bend brackets...i will post a picture. you need to run the cables up higher than the 09 route. the need to be above the harness in the headlight area | ||
| Avc8130 |
I had NO issues whatsoever putting the kit in. I just ran the cables EXACTLY the way the stockers were. Installed the cable adjusters the NORMAL way. Everything snaps back and everything works great. ac | ||
| Cme2c |
Pwillikers: Yes, you are screwing in the adjusters on both ends to make the cable housings as short as possible. I did my install today. It all went better than I expected. The hardest part was putting the zip tie on the throttle cables behind the left side air scoop. Initially the throttle would not return at all when turned left and would bind just a bit in other positions. I bent the bracket just a bit and it snaps back in all positions now, I was amazed at what a difference the little tweak to the bracket made. All I need to do is bleed the hydraulic lines and I'll be good to go. A rare 60 degree late November day predicted tomorrow. Woohoo! | ||
| Avc8130 |
Did you guys run any cable lube in before install? I put a little PJ1 in there...wonder if that made the difference? I did the whole job in about 2 hours with my g/f helping (she bought the kit for me for my bday). ac | ||
| Yugi |
I think I solved "The Mystery of the Throttle Cables". Here is how they should be routed: Throttle cable routing just right of the front brake line.  Works perfect right, straight, left. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Interesting. I ran mine into the headlight housing. Looks much more factory and everything works perfect. ac | ||
| Yugi |
I used straighter route, that's why it works. I noted that the cables are too long and they bent too much inside the headlight housing. Using my approach, you have just one mild bend. I think, this is how they routed on 2010. | ||
| Avc8130 |
I don't get it...MINE WORK! I didn't do anything special. The cables seem to be the perfect length to me. Everything fell right into place and everything works great. NO special tricks. ac | ||
| Dmhines |
I'd be curious to see if the 2010 cables are routed UNDER the upper clamp like Yugi did .... Have to find out from one of the UK guys I guess ... | ||
| Avc8130 |
Yugi has them routed UNDER the LOWER clamp. Frankly, I don't think that looks very good. If the 360 pics on Buell.com (sponsor? can I post the link?) are accurate, the cables disappear into the windscreen. They look exactly like mine. They are NOT forced into the slot cut in the black plastic like the clubmans. They naturally fall right up against the forks and drop out through the headlight housing center. Then a trip through along the wiring harness and sneak up to the mounts. All the while being careful to keep left/right and top/bottom cables the same so they don't overlap. ac | ||
| Dmhines |
AVC8130 ... you are the only one I know of that has reported NO issues with the high bar throttle cable swap. Most of us .. including myself ... ran them exactly like the Clubman cables were run and had some binding issues. Heck .. I ran them several different ways just to see if it helped. Everyone is trying to assist the 99% of the folks with an the issue to find the best resolution ... I agree that going under the clamp is probably not the way to do it. I sent an email to one of the UK guys to see if he would supply pictures. | ||
| Avc8130 |
Dmhines, Maybe they changed the kit? Mine was dated 11/9/09. Maybe I got newer cables. I could NOT install it the way others have suggested. My point was, try it as designed. It MIGHT just work. If not, let the rigging commence! ac | ||
| Dmhines |
Not sure about the cables ... mine was shipped from HD late October ... for those that have looked up the cables in the parts guide ... they are a 2010 part number. | ||
| Nickg |
mine were 10 cables according to my parts books... | ||
| Avc8130 |
Nickg, How did you route your cables? I see "up higher than the 09 route. the need to be above the harness in the headlight area"...what do you mean? Do you mean you didn't run them through the cutouts in the headlight plastic? ac | ||
| Nickg |
i bought the 2010 block off plates. the cables run above them. basically the cables run near parralell to the bars into the headlight housing and run above the main wire cluster and then down the same route as the clubman bars. when i get a few minutes, i will take pictures. the cables are adjusted short on both sides. the pull is the same as the earlier setup as well, no stiffness . it returns the same as the clubmans | ||
| Avc8130 |
That is exactly how I ran them. Same result too. I think that is the secret. ac |
