| Author | Message | ||
     Pwillikers |
The strength of the ZTL brake is a great thing, but I don't care for the front lever's free play prior to its applying stopping force. I searched the archives for recommendations to reduce or eliminate the free play. I found several related threads but no definitive recommendation. This is what I found. 2010 H0020.1AMA front brake piston set which, according to Dcmortalcoil, doesn't correct the issue. And, 2010 Front brake master cylinder seal change to reduce the free play in the lever. which is inconclusive. Has anyone tried a 2010 master cylinder or tried to rebuild a prior year master cylinder with the 2010 seals who can report on its efficacy? Any other suggestions. Thanks. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Are you sure there isn't an adjustable pad on the MC for this? (No, I'm not talking about the lever adjustment.) If there is - be very careful with it. That adjustment affects how far the piston in the MC releases. If you get it too tight, it may not release sufficiently to allow free movement of brake fluid back into the reservoir when you release the brakes. You then have a race condition where the trapped fluid in the line heats up due to the friction of the pads dragging on the rotor - which causes the pads to drag harder, creating more heat. This ends when the brakes lock solid and the motorcycle falls over at whatever speed it happens to be going at the time. People die this way. Be careful. KeS | ||
| Vagelis46 |
Have you tried air bleeding with a syringe ?? I used a 1125 master Cylinder for my 6-pot ZTL caliper, and I got a lot of free play. The brake was working OK, but it developed a lot of free play. After the syringe air bleeding it worked OK. | ||
| Jdugger |
Brembo 18-20 MC.  (Message edited by jdugger on November 23, 2009) | ||
| Bcrawf68 |
"which causes the pads to drag harder, creating more heat." This happened to once on an old Ninja. The front brakes locked up on the freeway because of some hydraulic circuit tied into the front forks. For no reason, the bike started slowing down and then I noticed the green FIRE coming off of the front wheel. TG I got the bike stopped and bled the lines so's I could go home... | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
i have 19rcs. it also has a free play, but not as much. i think they are designed that way to allow brake switch to turn on the brakelight before braking pressure is applied. i also tried radial m/c from r6. like it the best so far - stronger braking with less pull. brembo radials made for stock ducatis have the least amount of play. | ||
| 1324 |
Dc, so you currently use the R6 radial? And you like? This is good news because there have been some interest in this swap... | ||
| Jdugger |
You can bleed the 19RCS to not have any play, but if you use it hard, it will get hot and start locking up the front end! Also, if using the 19RCS, fill the res to "minimum" fill. As it gets hot, it will fill up on it's own! | ||
| Pwillikers |
So, Back to the original question...  Has anyone tried a 2010 master cylinder or tried to rebuild a prior year master cylinder with the 2010 seals who can report whether it reduced the free play? | ||
| Dano_12s |
Pw,I did not try the 2010 fix.What I did was get the 6MM race rotor+EBC-HH pads,now the lever has normal travel+good feel.Have about 500Mi.on set-up all is good. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
1324, Yes I'm using R6 radial m/c. I'm still trying to figure out how to permanently mount the reservoir. Currently zip tied to the handlebar. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Jdugger, I say it's impossible to remove the free play, unless the plunger itself is redesigned to work on the fluid without any free play. That means putting constantly applying some pressure to the fluid. Bleeding has nothing do with the free play part I'm referring to. What I mean by free play is the movement of the lever required to clear the brake switch. That I think is intentionally placed. | ||
| Jdugger |
The Brembo feels totally different than the OEM MC. It's "there" like Ducati brake are. You can literally get it to where you breathe on it and the brakes start. | ||
| Vagelis46 |
If bleeding has nothing to do with the free play, why when I made a decent "syringe air bleed" on the OEM 14mm MC, the free play was eliminated ?? For sure, a Brembo MC is an upgrade, but I think that the OEM can be made to work OK. I just think that sometimes people are in a hurry to start spending money.... | ||
| Macchiato |
C5 ASV, done. | ||
| Jdugger |
The OEM MC is fine for the street, but it's sloppy and unpredictable at temperature on the track. Mine gets "hard" -- it becomes difficult to actuate the brake and the lever becomes decidedly more firm as it gets hot. Once cool in the pits, the lever is sloppy and loose. The Brembo helped braking on my track bike become more consistent. | ||
| Avc8130 |
DCmortal, Any pics? How do you like this setup? I have one laying on the kitchen floor that I have been too lazy to install. Improved brake FEEL? ac | ||
| Smoke4ndmears |
What year R6 cylinder works? Any of the current generation radials? |
