| Author | Message | ||
     Xb12xmike |
Because my rotor started pulsing again...I replaced my front pads with Lyndall golds and lubricated the rotor mounts with wd-40. They work great now. Except it looks like there should be some retainer on the end of the pin hanger on the opposite side of the caliper. I don't see any depiction in the service manual (2-36). It just screws in and gets torqued? Am I good to go? | ||
| Xb12xmike |
I guess its all good cuz... it works and looks fine. The WD and Lyndall Golds eliminated the pulsing. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
Eh... there must be something else wrong. After 50 miles it's pulsing again. Not as bad but it's enough to make me wanna kick the fker. | ||
| Thegibbon |
Mine pulsed from about 5000 miles in until I eventually replaced it at 24000 miles. Cleaning only ever helped for a short time, and tried 3 different brands of brake pads. I switched to the new rotor design and it's been fine since. Hopefully it'll last. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
I had the rotor replaced at 8k under warranty. After I installed the Lyndall golds it was fine for 50 miles then started pulsing again little by little. It is no where near as bad as before but... I feel it might just get worse and worse again. I am starting to think it is something faulty in the mounting Kit. I will spray it again with WD and see if thats the problem. | ||
| Alchemy |
There is a theory that holding the front brakes on when stopped contributes to the pulsing. There may be something to it. Try holding the bike with the rear brake when at stops and see. It is not a complete fix but it does not hurt. Theory may be related to build up of pad dust or may be that extra heat causes rotor to heat unevenly. Not sure what it is but worth a try. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
Thanks, I started using that theory as soon as it first started pulsing.. (I forget exactly, @ 4-5k?) I was using rear brake only for a few thousand miles (except in emergency where I would use front brake as well) before I finally got a dealer to warranty it (@ 8k) Now, at 12k and applying those theory's its acting up. Anyways...So today I sprayed it again with WD40 and first 25 miles it was fine... then last 25 miles it was pulsing again. Is there a grease I can use for those springs? Seems after the WD evaporates... the pulsing comes back. I wonder if everyone whose had pulsing... ever road thru dirty water or mudd? Maybe the mounting springs are getting corroded. | ||
| Alchemy |
I actually tried using a water pic and mixture of Simple Green and water to flush out the space behind the rotor mount areas. Some benefit but not a fix. One comment I heard is that there are cases where the heat treating of the rotor may be uneven depending on the quality of the underlying metal. Very little metal today is pure from ore. Most is a mixture of recycled materials and has a fair amount of crap (chrome, nickel etc) in it. This is why a hand saw made in 1880 may be working quite well more than 100 years after production. I witnessed a guy take a saw over a 100 years old and bend it all the way around until the end of the saw blade was in the hole of the hand grip. He then released it and it sprung back completely straight. This is more difficult on a modern saw with a similar blade. The metal itself is just not as consistent these days. | ||
| Xb12xmike |
GREAT!! Anyone have a time machine? |
