| Author | Message | ||
     Bordercop |
I purchased a 1125CR. I went for a 70 mile ride and my hand and wrist were killing me from clutch pull fatigue. I did make adjustments to the handle but it is still kinda hard to pull. I had a HD and I don't remember having this much pane when I rode. Please comment. | ||
| Froggy |
The 1125 has the easiest clutch of any production bike I have ever felt. Anyway, you sure its not related to the more aggressive riding position? | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Mine was related to the clutch pull being so far out from the bar, even with the adjustment as far "in" as it would go. I just got a call that my ASV shortie levers are in, I'll report back tomorrow on how much of a difference it makes. KeS | ||
| T_man |
I think I know what he's talking about. The clutch on these 1125's engage very late in the level travel - hence to shift or to disengage the clutch you don't need to pull the clutch lever in more than an inch (tops). If you are used to riding a different bike(s) like I was, you would be used to pulling the clutch lever much farther inwards - and continuing this practice on the 1125 will indeed fatigue your arm. Just adjust your technique and you'll be problem free. | ||
| Phillyblast |
You can make it a lot easier clutch pull by limiting your use of it.  Seriously, the clutch is for stop lights and stop and go traffic. It's really not needed for shifting most of the time. | ||
| Cme2c |
Skinny little hard grips + clubman bars = misery for this 54 year old with arthritic thumbs. On order: hi-bar kit, Buell torque grips, uly pegs & Buell custom seat. Hmm, maybe I need a Goldwing... Umm, on second thought, I don't think so. | ||
| Phillyblast |
Ah, forgot about the clubmans on the CR. I think you've got it right Cme2c. | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Only pull in with two fingers about an inch, only use the whole hand when at a stop. It's got to be a position thing because the pull is very light, much lighter than any HD that I know of. The Buell Traction grips are a great investment for hand comfort also. | ||
| 03firebolt9r |
You CANT be serious? What a puss. | ||
| Xb1200rick |
My hand hurt a lot too after my first long ride on my CR after coming off a xb12R . The clutch pull is very different . You actually have to pull in the clutch on the XB . the CR clutch is best used as a quick on/off switch and only really pulled in when coming to a stop. Rick | ||
| 1buell1125r |
Its one of the easiest clutches I had to use. | ||
| Augustus74 |
Im gonna try that Rick! | ||
| Joebuell |
start using your left hand, if ya know what I mean  | ||
| Froggy |
  | ||
| Ironjim |
Clutches? We don't need no stinking clutches!!! | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
So, my $195.00: - Yes, I know the clutch pull is very light. That's not the problem. - Yes, I know the clutch doesn't have to be pulled in all the way. That's not the problem. - No, I don't care that it's not a problem for you. That doesn't help MY problem. - No, I don't care that you think I'm a puss. That's YOUR problem. The problem for me is that the clutch engagement point is way out at the end of travel, regardless of adjustment. This means that if you have to slip the clutch, you have to modulate it accurately with the ends of your fingers, at full extension. It doesn't work very well for me, and it hurts. I ride in heavy traffic, including lane-splitting, and this isn't a bike that just putts along at 5mph in first, either. It needs some engine revs and a slipped clutch to go slowly smoothly. I don't usually have any need or desire to replace levers on a bike, but these don't work for me. My solution is an ASV clutch lever. It replaces the original lever, retains the neutral kill switch function, and allows you to move the engagement point from further out than stock to *much* closer in. You could probably adjust it so the engagement comes all the way in to the bar if that's important to you, it's not to me so I didn't test it. The surface of the ASVs is also slightly wider and flatter. Altogether it transforms the bike; it's the best modification I've made so far. I also replaced the brake lever with ASV, but that was just so they'd match - I don't have an issue with the stock one and the ASV wasn't a significant improvement. I also got the shorty levers since I almost never use my whole hand for either brake or clutch; and I have bar-end mirrors to work around. I got the set for $195, so don't pay more than that (list is $125/per). KeS (Message edited by kevin_stevens on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
kes, where did you pick them up? p.m. me if you cant post up on here... I hate the clutch pull on this bike... its engages way too far out. | ||
| Jion |
Hey, as a noob-ie to the site I thought it was great that one of the first posts I saw was was a topic I can relate to. I solved my clutch-pull fatigue while fixing my (lack of) mirrors on my CR. In order to see anything behind me, I had to rotate my controls - both hands - forward a few degrees. This not only put the mirrors in a usable position, but also put the clutch and break levers in a more natural spot. No more dropping my arms to grab the levers. This may not be as slick as new levers, but it could be a quick fix until they come in. | ||
| Joebuell |
relax francis. We're just having some fun at your expense. The real prob is probably conditioning. Not that you're out of shape, just your clutch hand is. Just keep riding, you'll be fine. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Yeah, because I only ride 1000 miles a month in rush-hour traffic. That's it, it's my conditioning.  KeS | ||
| Americanmadexb |
HTFU | ||
| Joebuell |
well I stand corrected then, sorry. (still a great setup for a joke though) Got a pic of the new levers? | ||
| Macchiato |
Put my ASV's on last night cuz I never liked the late clutch engagement. Problem solve, great mod. I do the same on all my bikes for General Purpose. On the CR though, greatly enhanced control. Now if my pipe would hurry up and get here.  | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
The only time I ever had the 'ouch' feeling was after riding in some stop and go traffic. Out on the road, the clutch felt much lighter than any of my H-D bikes, but in town it actually started getting my attention. Mike | ||
| Jaimec |
Actually, the clutch (and front brake) levers are adjustable. I found that the adjusting wheel didn't so much change the distance from the lever to the grip as much as vary the point when the clutch begins to engage (and the front brake starts to bite). I like a long "friction zone" so I adjusted my clutch accordingly. I also like the front brake to engage RIGHT NOW, so I made that adjustment as well. Odd, because on every other bike I've owned, I just set both levers so they were farthest from the bar, but that didn't work the way I expected with the 1125R. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
On my previous ride, an XB12s, I had the clutch adjusted where it engaged just off the bar. I liked it like that, even though a mechanic almost put it thru a wall one time. He told me I had it all wrong, and asked if he could make it "like it was supposed to be". I rode it home, then promptly put it back like I had it. It was an issue for me when I got the CR. Way further out than I like on the engagement. I did rotate the controls down a bit, and that helped, the rest, I have just gotten used to it. I am really excited to hear that the ASV's have a greater range of adjustment. My wife has significantly smaller hands, (good thing...) and I think that a closer engagement will make the new (black) CR we got for her easier to ride... Ya learn something every single day here on the BadWeB!!!! R | ||
| Milt |
I'm with Milleniumx1. In stop and go traffic, the clutch is kind of painful. Of course, everything is kind of painful in stop and go traffic on an 1125CR ! | ||
| Dmhines |
I installed ASV's on my XB12 and now my CR ... they are excellent. It has just about infinite adjustment not just the five clicks like stock. I have my total clutch lever pull on the CR adjusted to about 3 inches of travel ... and it grabs very close to bottom just how I like it. I set it up so the clutch is fully disengaged about 3/4" before the lever hits the grip ... so the clutch begins to engage 3/4" from grip on release. | ||
| Jdugger |
Don't underestimate the value of periodically taking apart the levers themselves and cleaning them. I do it about once a month, or when the levers are no longer perfectly fluid. Take them off, pull them apart, clean well with WD-40 and a rag, both the levers and the lever mounts and bushings, as well as hardware. Re-assemble with fresh white lithium grease. It's shocking what a difference it can make. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Often overlooked is the ANGLE the controls are at...if your wrist is flexed backwards event the tiniest amount...it will get you..don't be afraid to adjust the angle properly...clutch and brake sides. |
