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Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 11, 2009 - 08:04 pm: |
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Grrrr.... Started minor surgery on the S2 tonight - pushrod base replacement with NRHS bases, and while it's apart I'm doing the XB rockerbox conversion. FWIW, you need 2 front rockerboxes to do the conversion on an S2. Having the rear PCV at the intake side makes it too tall. If you use a front box on the rear, it puts the PCV at the rear of the head, down low. No clearance issues at all. At any rate, while snugging down the bolts for the pushrod bases for a test-fit, the front bolt (at the front cylinder exhaust pushrod) stripped out. Using a 1/4" ratchet. So... Anyone ever successfully tap out one of these bolt holes and put in a helicoil? Do I need to remove the cam cover? I hate to...but I do have a new gasket for it if I need to... <sigh>.....where's my beer? |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 12:45 am: |
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Rat, the holes are blind so you shouldn't need to remove the came case. Just be careful with the tap and don't bottom it out and break it off. I've got front and rear XB rocker covers on both of our S2's with no clearance problems. What is the rear one hitting on? I seem to remember Frank having the same problem. I wonder why both of our are different? Brad |
Road_thing
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 09:49 am: |
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I had the same problem with the XB boxes on my S2--the rear breather valve hits the bottom of the gas tank. rt |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 10:32 am: |
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Yep, hitting the bottom of the tank. All my tank tab sits on is the toothed 'recall' hold-down plate in the rear. I can't *imagine* production variances on S2 fuel tanks....LOL I may mock up some spacers under there, to see if the bodywork will fit right if I 'lift' the rear of the tank 1/4" or so. Only reason I might mess with it is, I'm sure there's a reason they put the PCVs at the top of the box instead of the bottom...puke reduction? Flow characteristics? <shrug> Either way, it'll be better than the side breather system, LOL. Brad - good to know it's a blind hole, thanks. I guess that makes sense, if it was open there'd have to be a gasket or O-ring at the bolt, too.... I'm getting good with helicoils these days. Just put six in the Uly for the flyscreen attachment - hardened screws into aluminum, guess who wins? If I only had one windscreen, it wouldn't be a problem...but putting my 'winter' shield on (the Cee Bailey) I noticed one was going bad so I did all six. |
The4ork
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 01:05 pm: |
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no but i managed to drop one in the case the pushrod base clamp that is |
Buellisticx1
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 04:52 pm: |
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I had a similar issue not long ago (front cylinder exhaust pushrod base, bolt hole stripped out. What I did was chase the threads with a metric tap 8 and put a metric bolt eight to bolted in, together with two pressure washers. With no problems that's what fixed mine. Just a thought
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 05:26 pm: |
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I know me. I'd rather helicoil it so all the bolts are the same. I *guarantee* the next time I have it apart, I wouldn't remember that there was an odd bolt and I'd booger something else. LOL. Although, hopefully the NRHS bases will cure my leaky-pushrod-woes forever... |
Buellisticx1
| Posted on Thursday, November 12, 2009 - 05:49 pm: |
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NRHS billet bases are sweet but bastards to install. HAD 7 times the rocker box apart. (I NOT gave UP).This was driving me crazy!! It would appear that NRHS bases combined with stock (black) seals is key here no doubt. it is the way to go. Stock seals seem a harder rubber compound. that was mine, yours may be different. Good luck with the NRHS billet bases Regards. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/47623/474195.html?1246230082 (Message edited by buellisticx1 on November 12, 2009) |
Kyrocket
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 11:34 am: |
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I did the same, used my old pushrod seals in the new NRHS bases and worked fine. The hardest part about that project was pushing the pushrod covers through the bases. Use plenty of engine lube. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 06:45 pm: |
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Don't forget the super glue! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, November 13, 2009 - 06:58 pm: |
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...that was actually the reason for my 'test fit'. I used black RTV to "attach" the seals to the billet bases and bolted the bases to the engine to keep the seals from popping out the bottom, so now (hopefully) the pushrod tubes, when properly lubed, should slide right on thru with no problem and the seals should stay where they belong. I hope.
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 06:54 pm: |
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Well, good news. When I *pay attention*, the screw hole is *not* blind...but it exits on the *exterior* of the case, between a couple little ribs. Now if I grabbed the right helicoil size, I'm all set.... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, November 16, 2009 - 10:51 pm: |
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What a pain in the A$$!!! Gawd, I hate doing pushrod seals. I had not one, but TWO stripped holes. Whoever had them off last had used gray RTV on the rear intake pushrod bolt. GAH. So, had to tap and helicoil two. Without pulling the heads and jugs to get a drill in there. My "solution" was to use gradually larger taps until I got to the one for the coils. So far, so good...but we'll see how long (if) they hold once the bike is running. Also found a busted ground wire to the VOES...so a new VOES is in order (it broke *inside* the sealer on the VOES itself, no access). Got the lower rockers handtight; XB uppers are sitting on top as dustcatchers. I'm done for the night; I'll button up and torque everything tomorrow. Right now, I need a beverage |
Buellisticx1
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:24 am: |
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Please Ratbuell, could you tell me the size of Helicoil you used there? .. and what tap/drill size?....., I say if someday I need to tap out one of these bolt holes and put in a helicoil? Thanks in advanced. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 09:26 am: |
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The screws are 5/16-18. The helicoil kit I used had its own drillbit (which I didn't use because I couldn't fit a drill between head, jug, and exhaust) but it was only marked with "5/16-18". The kit also came with its own tap, for the exterior of the helicoils. Again, not marked except for "5/16-18". Nice thing about Helicoil, though - their kits tend to have EVERYthing you need, and with my "organizational skills" (read: slob), it's nice to have it all in one box I'm getting quite a collection, and if I use up the coils I have a parts house local to me that will order me just coil refills (packs of 10 or 12 coils). |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 10:35 pm: |
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NRHS bases are a PITA to get the pushrod covers through, but they sure are nice once installed correctly. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:17 am: |
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well...they sure look purty....we'll see how they work when I get it buttoned up after vacation (read: did I get them installed right? or did I pinch something?). |
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