| Author | Message | ||
     Fresnobuell |
Prior to breakin, I am going to change the oil my new '09 R as it has had the same oil in it for over a year. It has been extremely hard to find an 20/50W dino oil that I feel comfortable using with a wet clutch. I have been to three to four shops already with no success Even the Harley 20W/50 dino oil says nothing about safe use for a wet clutch. I just bought 3 quarts as I am tired of looking for oil. Is this safe to run with our wet clutch? | ||
| Hughlysses |
You know the factory fill is Syn3, right? | ||
| Zac4mac |
The "factory fill" is 20w-50 Dino. Every HD/B except CVO leaves the factory with Dino. CVOs leave with Syn3. Z | ||
| Moosestang |
Valvoline 4 stroke says wet clutch right on the bottle. It's sold at ever Advance discount auto parts store, but it's not with the auto oils. (Message edited by moosestang on November 08, 2009) | ||
| Dongalonga |
rotella 15w40 | ||
| Mikezx9r |
Ive been using Motul oil for years in bikes with wet clutches. Ive never looked for it before, but I would think they make it in 20w50. I always get it at Cycle Gear | ||
| Swamp2 |
None of the 20w-50 oils have "friction modifiers" that you find in the the lighter weight energy conserving oils. These are what tend to give wet clutch problems. I think you can put any 20-50 dino in there you can find and not worry about it. I changed my oil at 53 miles and just threw in the Advance Auto store brand - it'll only be in there a few hundred miles before changing again - and no clutch slip problems at all. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I'll add to that with - At 620 I filled with Syn3. At the 12.4 k Service, I changed to Red-Line 10w-40 for Winter, back to R-L 20w-50 for Summer. All felt fine on the clutch. Zack | ||
| 1_mike |
Fresno - Why are you worried about synthetic oil with a wet clutch? I've been using Mobil 1 in my bikes since 1985 in my ol Kawasaki 900 Ninja. And in all since. All with wet clutches, and all with zero problems. In all of my bikes, I've got two (I bought new...that have over 100,000 miles on the original clutch, (I still have one ov them you can actually inspect). Mike | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
1_mike: I think he just wants to use dino oil for the break-in period. FWIW I used Mobil-1 from my break-in... | ||
| Yugi |
1_mike, Westmoorenerd, What kind of Mobil1 did you use? | ||
| 1_mike |
West - The first two sentences "are" a bit confusing. But then he mentions the clutch. That was all I was addressing. Yugi - Plain ol automotive 15-50. Mike | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Cycle Gear is the one shop in town I didn't have a chance to visit. Brain fart on my end. The main multi-brand motorcycle dealer here in town didn't have but one synthetic 20W/50 oil....but that's to be expected as the vast majority of bikes sold out of there take 10W/40. And yes it's purely a break in issue. | ||
| Westmoorenerd |
Yugi, I use Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin oil. | ||
| Moosestang |
I used royal purple 20w50 automotive oil in my xb9. It made the clutch slip. Changed it to the valvoline motorcycle oil and it was well. | ||
| Mikezx9r |
I had problems when I used repsol synthetic in my zx9. It would get stuck in neutral often when shifted from 1st to 2nd and vice versa. It hasnt happened again since I went back to the Motul I had been using and it didnt happen before I tried the synthetic oil. I just stick with regular dino oil now | ||
| Fast1075 |
The Rotella is an excellent choice...I use Castrol GTX 20-50 when I use Dino oil. | ||
| Yugi |
Yes, I'm also thinking about using Rotella 5w-40 synthetic or Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic after the break-in period. Don't know which one would be better though. (Message edited by yugi on November 09, 2009) | ||
| Moosestang |
If i'm using mobil 1, it's going to be the 20w50 vtwin for motorcycles. There auto oils are weak with the amount of zinc and phosphorus. Mobil 1 v-twin is $9.99 around here, might as well buy amsoil for that price. | ||
| Averagejoe |
You can use about any oil with clutches, people over do the clutch needs special oil and additives thing. And moosestang you are right on the zinc, wish they all had good amounts of it. And for the record I use that cheap crap Diesel oil, have for years even in my turbo bikes, good stuff. But almost all bikers cringe at the thought of it. | ||
| Moosestang |
The clutch doesn't need special additives, it's the special additives in the auto oils that the clutch doesn't need. They use other things to replace the lack of zinc and it can cause the clutch to slip. | ||
| Averagejoe |
I have never had a clutch slip, even my turbo busa and gsxr, never ran bike oil | ||
| Moosestang |
Maybe my clutch on my xb9 was just weak. If the clutch is strong, then it may not matter, but the fact is moly in the oil can and has caused clutch slippage. google it. | ||
| Swamp2 |
I've used Rotella in lots of bikes, as long as they didn't spec > 40 max viscosity. Nver had a clutch problem. But, for the 1125R I'm gonna stick w/ something that goes to 50. Either AMSOil (about 33 a gallon) or Mobil 1 Vtwin (8.97/qt at walmart). | ||
| Vosnick52 |
Motorex 15w 50 | ||
| Romano |
Try Motul 5100 semi synthetic 10W-50. You can run it all year round and will make your oil light and there for cam chain adjuster take up at start in half the time of a HD 20w-50. It does'nt cost the earth so you can afford to change it every 5000klms if you want. This is a well proven and respected product. Cheers, Romano | ||
| Averagejoe |
Have heard nothing but good about the Motul, I am thinking about using it as well. |
