| Author | Message | ||
     Roma909 |
i think i know pretty much how to do it(well as far as what the manual says)is there anything specific i need to do? ps i love this bike! haha | ||
| Moosestang |
You need to get a drain pan that you can put the kickstand into. That drain plug is tight! Don't be afraid to put a breaker bar on it. | ||
| Daggar |
Be prepared for the left side drain plug to shoot out of your hand. | ||
| Sl33py |
have clean-up material close by. You will spill some no matter how hard you try. Tin foil is helpful to cover exhaust and route dribbles into oil pan... GL! | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
Pretty much what everybody has said. What I do is... I lay down cardboard first pretty thick just in case. Two funnels One for the new oil. One for the old oil. The left side drain I funnel it into the pan. That funnel has flexible nozzle on it so I can funnel it into the pan. Then have all your tools laid out of course and have fun changing your oil. If you spill a little then you are doing good because you will spill a little. My first change was a disaster the second went pretty smooth since I knew what to expect. (Message edited by freezerburn840 on November 05, 2009) | ||
| White79bu |
I put my bike up on the stands and let it run for a minute. Then I just drain the oil. No need to worry about oil running down the kickstand this way. | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
I am too lazy to buy a stand but that will probably save a lot preparation right there. | ||
| Ekruizenga |
Wrap everything on the left side with tin foil, even then be ready to clean the floor.} | ||
| Tyrroneous |
I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that botched their first oil change on the 1125. My first one was a disaster! I think more oil went on the floor than went into my drain pan. I'm going to try the tinfoil and multi funnel route for my next oil change. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Oil changes are definitely one thing I like better about the XB so far. | ||
| Hack_job |
I did my first change last night. I've been spinning wrenches for years, but this bike made me feel like a rookie. My kickstand, muffler, and garage floor are very well lubed now  I think next time I'll get a big disposable baking pan to put under the bike. Also on a sidenote, the manual says capacity with filter change is 2.7q. I grabbed three thinking I would have some left over. I put all three in and it just barely touches the dipstick. Grab four quarts before you dive in just in case. (Message edited by hack_job on November 06, 2009) | ||
| Freezerburn840 |
XB was a breeze compared to this. When I first looked at the location of the left side bolt and the filter housing. I knew it would be interesting without a stand. The only thing with the stand Buell wants us to lean the bike each way to get all the oil out of both holes. Heck use the extra funnel on the right side so it doesnt trickle on the muffler. | ||
| Fran_dog |
Yep, I lubed my side stand for the first time today on my 1125R. I wish I had read this tread first. | ||
| Moosestang |
Also on a sidenote, the manual says capacity with filter change is 2.7q. I grabbed three thinking I would have some left over. I put all three in and it just barely touches the dipstick. Grab four quarts before you dive in just in case. That's odd because 3 quarts put mine right below the overfilled mark on my dipstick. | ||
| Slowride |
I did my first oil change today and I had none of the problems you guys have mentioned. I was able to put my cr on my rear stand and was able to close the kickstand. I have one of the low square oil change catchers from wallyworld that fit under the bike oriented in such a way to catch both sides of the engine. I loosened the left side plug first and let it start draining and then used the Allen wrench to loosen the right side and let it drain. Lastly, I pulled the two T30 screws and pulled the filter. The oil was some thick funny colored stuff. The magnetic drain plug was a deep gray of metal flakes. The filter had a glistening sheen to it from the metal flakes. Installed new filter, o ring and oil. All total it only took about 30 mins with me being very carefull. It also took 3 quarts of Rotella 15/40 to hit the full mark after a 20 min run on the hwy. Take your time and you'll do fine. | ||
| Tpoppa |
I just did my first oil change. It took some garage-engineering, but with tin foil and electrical tape I was able to prevent the oil filter cover from dumping oil all over the side of the engine case. | ||
| Ccryder |
Yep a little"tin-foil" goes a looong ways to keeping things tidy. Just go buy some dedicated for the shop otherwise "Momma" will come looking for you! LOL | ||
| Keef |
T-Rex-racing.com makes some stands that for about 120.00 you get both front and rear stands I have 300.00 worth of Pitbull stands for the M2 and my XB12SS and the T rex stands for the 1125cr  | ||
| Ponti1 |
I use the foil over the muffler to direct drainage on each side, but use a bread bag over the side stand, secured at the pivot point with a rubber band. Found that it worked better for me than foil wrapped around the stand. | ||
| Dmhines |
I just changed my oil. Looks like Buell invented a self lubricating Kick Stand. I put my CR up on the rear stand and drained the oil. I titled it to the left for a while to get out as much as possible. I filled with V-Twin Mobil 1 and the valve train does seem quieter with it. | ||
| Tpoppa |
For the oil filter...I taped the tin foil to the engine case (about 2mm under the oil filter cover) with electrical tape. Then shaped it into a funnel. It worked great. No oil on the kick stand and only a little on the engine case itself. | ||
| Xodot |
+1 on the application of tin foil. Following advice from the dealership, I captured (almost) all the oil, measured it in a new measuring cup purchased for that purpose and then used that exact amount to fill. 2.6 litres was perfect. The baking sheet catch tray and cardboard were used by me. I'll use the "kickstand in a bread bag" idea next time too. I was taken by surprise by how far out the oil shot on the left side when the plug was pulled! That was the only thing I was not ready for. Have fun with it! Xo. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Be ready for the left side oil to come out 2 feet and rapidly drop to beneath the hole. I sloshed 2 qts trying to catch the stream the first time. What a mess. It goes clean without a drop now... Z | ||
| Yugi |
Is it all right to use Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic or Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic in it after the first 620 miles? I use Mobil1 in my BMW R-bike and in a Lightning, and it works flawlessly so far. Or it's not compatible with a wet clutch/gearbox of 1125? (Message edited by yugi on November 08, 2009) | ||
| Zac4mac |
I have used Syn3, Red-Line 10w-40 and 20w-50. All good. R-L 20w-50 now, 10w-40 next service. Zack | ||
| Tpoppa |
10w40 or 5w40 is OK for cold weather riding. | ||
| Yugi |
It always cold here in Bay Area, but never goes below 32 and rarely above 90. Depends what you consider "cold". I was always thinking that 50 weight is good for air cooled engines, and 40 is good for water cooled. I used Rotella 5w-40 in my Kawasaki Ninja in the past, and had no problems. On the other side, I tried 20w-50 Valvoline 4T motorcycle oil in it, and shifting was too clunky. When I switched to 5w-40, it became much smoother. (Message edited by yugi on November 08, 2009) | ||
| Tpoppa |
Per the manual, 40 weight oil is for use below 40 degrees. I would stick to that. | ||
| Yugi |
I think that manual refers to 10W part for below 40 degrees, which should be good for starting the engine in a cold temperature, but an operating temperature for the engine is always the same, which is especially true for water cooled engines | ||
| Swamp2 |
Is the consensus that it's ok to switch to full synthetic at the 620 change - that the motor is sufficiently broken in by then? | ||
| Tpoppa |
I think that manual refers to 10W part for below 40 degrees, which should be good for starting the engine in a cold temperature, but an operating temperature for the engine is always the same, which is especially true for water cooled engines Don't forget that you have an oil cooler. 50 weight will thicken up more than 40 weight when cold air blows through the oil cooler. I would stick to the oil suggestions in the manual. | ||
| Roadrash1 |
The first thing to do is paint your garage floor with epoxy paint. Makes the clean-up a little easier anyway.   | ||
| Andynj |
Thinking about changing my oil myself and found this funnel made for Harleys. To the guys that have changed their oil already do you think this would help? http://www.ernstmfg.com/products_oilfilterfunnel.p hp |
