| Author | Message | ||
     Romano |
I cant find a thread on this. After the obvious screws and covers have been removed, what is holding the air box down? I have a fuel pressure sensor problem and it needs to be changed. I am told that the air box has to come off in order to change it. I decided to have a look as I want to know what the dealer has to do. I have not tried to force it off but there appears to be nothing left holding it on. Whats the trick guys. Thanks Romano | ||
| Ccryder |
You need a Torx T-30 bit to remove the seat and airbox/base. That's all. | ||
| Pash |
Maybe you have bigger screws in the US, but in Europe it is a Torx T27 that you need... | ||
| Tq_freak |
Nope its a T30 on both sides of the pond. T27 will work and there is not a huge visual difference but they are T30's | ||
| Romano |
I have removed all the screws I can see. The seat is off. The tank cover is off. The air filter cover is off. The filter is off. the 2 screws at the front are off. But it still feels firm. | ||
| Ccryder |
The airbox cover has 4 screws. It's a little snug. The airbox is held by clips. | ||
| Averagejoe |
Yes the bottom of the airbox feels like there is something holding it, noticed this when I took off the solenoid. Make sure you get the 2 screws up by the tank fill. And also the wire harness on the rear of the airbox has a loop from the box under it, then it will take a firm pull to get it off the TB's. Ohh the fuel line is hooked to the rear of the box too have to slide it off. (Message edited by AverageJoe on November 07, 2009) | ||
| Romano |
Thanks for your help gents. Will give it a bit of a heave ho. Could'nt see anything else holding it but did not want too stuff anything up. Any one else ever had a fuel pressure sensor problem that logged in there diagnostic fault list? Fuel pressure is running at 400kpa at idle. I believe it should be about 250kpa. Cheers Romano | ||
| Poppinsexz |
I had to pull like hell. like others said unclip the atmospheric pressure sensor, the fuel pressure sensor, and the wiring harness at the left rear. then lift from the rear the rubber boot around the throttle bodies is quite tough as it is sealing the bottom of the airbox. the only thing holding the lower airbox on is the two torx screws at the front and the rubber seal | ||
| Ccryder |
FWIW, the black Torx fasteners on the 1125 are metric 6mm x1.0 with a T-30 head. On the XB's and Tubers, the SS Torx screws are SAE 1/4"x20 with a T-27 head. Using a T-27 bit in a T-30 head will lead you to cursing Torx fasteners and it will only be YOUR fault, be there done that don't want to do it again. BTW Torx drives are heads and shoulders better than the Phillips head they replaced but, you have to use the proper tool. Later all. | ||
| Ron_luning |
The fuel rail clips into the airbox base plate at the rear. Don't yank the base plate off without releasing the fuel rail or you could break it. Maybe a little wd-40 on the throttle body rubber surrounds during the base plate reinstall might help make it easier. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
WD40 would be a bad plan for rubber. It will swell and deteriate the rubber. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Now I feel even better about just installing the resistor to kill my noid (done by removing the seat) instead of doing the whole gutting process. Since I was doing it at midnight after a long day, no doubt I would have screwed something up - Lots of good 'gotcha' tips here for when I do decide to have a closer look at the TB area! Mike | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Mike it's really not hard maybe 5 min job after you do it the first time nothing complicated except that you havent done it so there is some trepedation | ||
| Stevering |
Tell you what - it is an impressive sight to remove the airbox and filter and see those 61mm throttle body openings! Flip the throttle and look down into valves - that is a wonderful thing! Airbox removal is easy - goes in steps - seat, airbox cover screws, flip the airbox clips down, remove airbox, flip down bands holding air filter, remove rubber air dam around throttle bodies and look in wide wonder at the inside of the Rotax Helicon! Almost better than sex! Best to do mechanical work when fresh and alert! The 1125's are fun to work on and to ride! | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Steve might have just talked me into it! I'll start tinkering more when it's not nice enough to ride. That won't be long now unfortunately ... | ||
| Romano |
Stevering. What are you calling the rubber air dam. Romano | ||
| Stevering |
The rubber piece that goes around the throttle bodies and has the groove that fits into the airbox floor. It is a separate piece that is a snug fit into the airbox floor | ||
| Stevering |
Millenium, if you are at all capable as a wrencher, the 1125's seem to be very easy to work on so far. The HD dealership that sold me my CR, offered to install my high bars for only $400 + the $225 kit with tax. It took me longer than the 2 hours at the dealership but, I don't have a bike stand or air tools. I learned to wrench back in the 60's before such things were prevalent. I know I'll need the tech spec manual before long - that much is not intuitive. Have fun and don't be afraid to ask friends for help. My brother-in-law is a aircraft tech and is a great tool maker too. We both have CR's and I learn from him how to do things easier! | ||
| Poppinsexz |
http://www.buelletinboard.com/forums/showthread.ph p?t=10079 here is a good tutorial with pictures | ||
| Ron_luning |
OK, so don't use WD-40. Use spit instead. That always worked for me on carb boots. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Steve, having owned several Harleys and a couple of Buells (not counting cars built over the years), I'm a better than average wrencher. That said, that applies more to "bolt on" mods than it does fabrication. My casual fear of messing something up tends to fade with time on any new machine, especially when they are garage-bound during the snowy season. Where's my tools?! Mike | ||
| Romano |
Thanks guys. The job has been done and all happy. Yes I agree that this bike is nice to work on and has some well thought out ideas. The hardest part of getting it back together was placing the crankcase breather back in its rectangle housing. It did go back in though. Thanks very much for your help and the pics were a great help. All that snow must mean you,ll have to park the bike and get out the ski's....sounds like fun..Cheers Aussie Romano | ||
| Zac4mac |
It's only scary the first time. Be sure all the cables stay where they are supposed to be as you re=install the base-plate. Routing is critical for smooth throttle. Be sure and check in Diagnostic-Mode for 2-100% TPS. I use a pair of hemostats to keep the breather in its place. Spit works well, or soapy water, like for tire work. One of the things I like best about my job is going back to Service and looking at torn-down 1125s. Zack |
