| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
Let me lead off with some background, for those who don't recognize the username. I sell Buells, have for years. I own five. I'm more than a little familiar with suspension setup  My CR (with a whopping 107 miles on it) has me stumped. All stock, clubman bars, proper tire pressure, and suspension set per the manual (which is usually a dead-on setting for my other Buells) for my bodyweight. Where my Uly and tubers are just about perfect when set by the book...the CR is beating me to death. Front end is pogoing, and the rear would knock fillings out of my head if I had 'em. I'm making tweaks one at a time each time I ride...but is there a standard "go one weight range light" or something like that? Or do I just need to experiment? I've ridden 1125s (R and CR models) many times in the past, and on the racetrack for track days. This is the first one that's fought back, so to speak. And of course...it's the first one I own, so *naturally* it's gonna be the difficult one LOL. | ||
| Chadhargis |
I had the same issue. I took a quarter turn of compression out of the front forks as I simply had no feel and felt like I was going to push the front. That helped a lot. Then I took FOUR clicks of compression out of the rear. It's still firm, but much, much better. I didn't have any pogo issues. I just got mild concussions going over bumps. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
The owners manual has a grid that shows settings for different weight ranges, so you could move everything "lighter" according to that. In my experience, the preload settings were almost exactly correct. However, the damping rates were extremely high, even for track use. The recommended rebound setting had my bike sucking up after a compression in several *seconds* - that's not consistent with anything I've ever heard from Lee Parks, Dave Moss, Jason Pridmore, etc. Maybe the suspension takes awhile to break in. In the interim, I've had to back the damping - particularly the rebound, way down. I've had to maintain a reasonable amount of compression damping to avoid braking bottoming in front, and "pack down" over ripple bumps in the rear. KeS | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Yep. +1. | ||
| Sekalilgai |
Joe Funny I was thinking the very same thing last weekend, in fact I specifically rode the Uly down the same road last night and took another bike this morning just to make sure I didn't imagine those bumps.... I think I will be backing off the compression a wee bit myself. Pulling a half-turn less preload on the forks also helped...but in a different way...I'm going to have to stick a wire-tie just to be keep an eye on it  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, I'm leaving preload set for my weight in gear (170-190; GAWD I have to put my weight back on!!). Front comp and reb, I'm putting at 2 turns out, each (instead of the manual's 1.625c / 1.5r). I was at 1.750/1.625 this morning and it was *better* than the manual spec...but still not right. Leaving the rear alone for now (set per manual specs for my weight); one change at a time. I'm also, in the process, going to find a way to get the GDMF wiring harness out of the way (zip tie to the subframe?) so I can adjust the rear compression just by looking through the hole under the seat lock, instead of having to pull the drivers seat every damn time. | ||
| Jdugger |
Mine have taken a bit of time to "break in" Set everything to a minimal, or if you are a bigger guy, so a very soft setting. Go ride it for a while, let it rocking horse. Now set it up. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, the 2-out setting on the front seems to be pretty happy. I'll pull a little comp/reb out of the back and see. I've already laminated a copy of the chart from the owners manual and put it in my toolbag |
