Author |
Message |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 10:29 am: |
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It appears in the photo that there's a metal case around the rubber. This looks to be a better design, but does it allow you to visually inspect the iso for failure? How can you tell if it's cracking? |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:09 am: |
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The DS isolator that I have looks just like the original one its just a lot harder. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:12 am: |
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How is it holding up? |
Adsva83
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 12:29 pm: |
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Do you have the part number for this ISO or a link? I'm replacing my front ISO while I have my bike apart. |
Ajgerdes
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 12:41 pm: |
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its ALOT harder. It vibrates like crazy now. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:14 pm: |
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DS243515 |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:29 pm: |
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So then is drilling out the 16207-79D part the best way to go? |
Jramsey
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:42 pm: |
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>>16207-79D part the best way to go? With that question your going to get another 100 post Iso thread started, but for me they have worked fine so far, 3,200 miles on the S3 and 2,600 miles on the X1 since the change out last spring. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:55 pm: |
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Thanks. I hated starting another thread on this, but I could find my answer is the 100's of other threads I looked in. I think I'll try the 79-D part first. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 02:14 pm: |
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YES it vibrates a great deal more, James has had good luck with his, me I like it compared to my 1125 the X1 is "visceral" |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 02:51 pm: |
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Didn't someone post that the new stock replacements are made by Barry again? Which were the good ones from the beginning aka stock from factory?? |
Kalali
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 03:16 pm: |
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I am sticking with L0501.2. Oldog, did you also get a new 1125? |
Blackm2
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 04:41 pm: |
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They are made by Barry. But they are the ones ripping prematurely. I'm on my third in 4000 miles. I bought the billet mount to nip any actual mount breakage in the bud and was gonna use the DS part, but it is so freaking hard, I don't want my teeth shaking loose more than they already do. I'll just keep replacing it with the Buell mount til they fix it, and Al says they are aware of the problem. |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 04:52 pm: |
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I'll just keep replacing it with the Buell mount til they fix it, and Al says they are aware of the problem. Until who fixes it? Al I hope because I'm pretty sure whoever is still at the Buell factory until the December closing is not working this problem! That said, I am not going to wade through the 100's of post either, but I thought I read that the factory had fixed it? (Message edited by scott_in_nh on November 02, 2009) |
Blackm2
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 04:59 pm: |
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Barry Isolators. They make the part. |
Jmkybf
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:10 pm: |
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I have 5,900 miles on my DS iso. So far no mount or bolt failures. I don't remember what the original iso felt like, so the vibes don't bother me. The only thing that has happened is that my V&H front muffler mount has broken twice with the updated 'Y' bracket. It may or may not be linked to the iso. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 05:25 pm: |
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Let me say this !!! The FRONT ISOLATOR on the TUBE FRAME BUELL(also the BLAST) is a RETRO FIT PART from the H-D BIG TWIN Platform ... The BIG TWIN Engine sits on it and the TUBE FRAME and BLAST engine HANGS from it ... Have only replaced my front isolator once in 108,822.1 miles ... IMHO, my ORIGINAL OEM front Isolator failed because of the early on rear isolators were retro fits from the BIG TWIN Soft Tail and could not cut it the TUBE FRAMEs ... IMHO, improper installation is also a problem ... If the factory comes up with a replacement heavier duty part, "i" will always use it ... "HARLEY-DAVIDSON Motor Company making MECHANICS and PARTS MEN out of BUELL Riders since THURSDAY 15 OCTOBER 2009 !!!" (Message edited by buellistic on November 02, 2009) |
Sloppy
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 06:48 pm: |
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I'm not sure if Buell has "updated" their updated part, but I CAN say that the HD isolator, -79D, reamed out to 1/2" works great. And if you look at the design of the -79D isolator, you will see that it is an improvement over the Buell L0501 design. Note that you will NOT use the top Buell "D" washer if you use the HD isolator. I am very pleased with the -79D replacement. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 08:40 pm: |
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Sloppy - I'm going to go that route. Do you need to clearance the integrated washer at all on the -79D part? |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 09:04 pm: |
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I had to clearance mine on the S2 but everyone else says they haven't. In my experience, it needs about 1/4" clearance. I think the S1 has a notch in the head-tube. The S2 doesn't, except what the 79D wore into it. LOL. |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 12:24 am: |
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Xl - not sure what you mean by clearance... It was a basic bolt up and go (after you ream for the Buell bolt size). Use a new washer between the isolator and nut. The Buell "D-Washer" has a recess built into it which will crack if used alone. If you want to get creative you can find a washer to fit INTO the recess of the "D-Washer", but that would be for aesthetics. Your choice, of course. Mine was for a '00 S3 - and there were no clearance issues. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 09:52 am: |
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The D washer is shaped like it is for a reason - didn't know if the integrated washer on the -79D part needed to be shaven down some to clear everything. Doesn't sound to be the case on the S1, S3, M2, X1 frames, only the S2. |
Sloppy
| Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 11:37 am: |
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You are correct - the D Washer is shaped to act as a "safety" catch in case the Buell OEM isolator failed. The D Washer has a recess to allow full compression on the steel shank and not on the rubber. Due to this requirement the D-Washer needed to have a recess put into it to clear the frame. The -79D INTEGRATES the steel shank WITH the safety washer so in case the shank seperates from the isolator the safety washer will catch it. Hence, you DO NOT want to use the "D-Washer" (unless you take other precautions). This is why the -79D is a BETTER design than the Buell part. (Message edited by sloppy on November 03, 2009) |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, November 03, 2009 - 08:23 pm: |
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The drag specialties isolator is quite hard, but you dont have to modify it, it seems to soften with use if you are failing front isos, frequently try replacing the rear ones and checking the tie bars, post up here. Kali, Yes I have an '08 1125R now. its in the shop, coolant leak and we are waiting on a part (heat shrinkable hose clamp) (about 2.00$) Glad I kept the X1 it will teach me to make wise cracks about the bike being steam powered. =) perhaps by december |
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