| Author | Message | ||
     Chevycummins |
Just wondering if anybody have used the race pads and rotor and was it worth the money? In the race catalog there are 2 different rotors listed, one is 6mm and the other is the 5mm one. My rotor is warped and thought that one of these might last longer than the stock one. Any input would be appreciated. Also I was told today that this is the last day that race parts can be ordered so I need to move on this soon. | ||
| Jdugger |
Please post up a picture of your warped rotor. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Are you sure it's warped? I thought my rotor was warped, but the service department cleaned it and it is good as new. I think the rotor warps only under extreme street conditions or racing conditions. | ||
| Chevycummins |
It only pulsates a little and is more noticeable at slower speeds with light brake pressure. I don't have a pic of the rotor but could take one and post it. I feel that I brake very lightly and don't think it should be pulsating already. There is no discoloration of the rotor like it was hot. I did try the braking hard from high speed a couple of times and it made no difference. The race parts are big $$$ and are hard to justify for the street but I have been told that the stock rotors don't hold up very well and this will keep happening. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
The race parts are big $$$ and are hard to justify for the street but I have been told that the stock rotors don't hold up very well and this will keep happening. I would have to disagree--at least from personal experience. I have done a couple track days in hellish heat and the rotor has held up well. I was thinking about getting a race rotor, but the added rotating mass is not going to make the bike any easier to turn. I decided against it. | ||
| Speedy818 |
Race parts are race parts for a reason - you're on your front brake a hell of a lot more on the track, so the friction surfaces are meant to be applied to a hot rotor. If you're on the highway and feather your front brake to slow slightly, you're going to get glazing which may not be what you're looking for at the moment you REALLY need your brakes. Would very much suggest NOT putting race brakes on a street bike for street use. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Should I just get the race rotor but use the stock pads? I just don't want it to start pulsating in another 6,500 miles. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
are you using stock pads with the stock rotor? That might be your problem right there... | ||
| Jdugger |
Chevy, Your rotor isn't warped is my guess. You need to use your brakes much harder, and the glazing will go away. Race pads would only make the situation much, much worse. There's also the option of using non-OEM pads. The OEM pad is relatively aggressive -- I might go so far as to describe it as a "trackday" pad. Look for an after market pad intended for street use. I think you will find the performance more suitable for the way you are using the bike. I asked for a picture of your rotor, because I suspect it's mostly shiny silver at the edges. Mine's purple. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Its still the original parts that came on the bike. Not even a hint of color change on the rotor. I do brake very light. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Never mind, bad info removed. KeS (Message edited by kevin_stevens on November 02, 2009) | ||
| 99buellx1 |
Get some cans of brake clean and spray liberally (meaning a ton) around the bolts that hold the rotor, baiscally shooting into the wheel itself. There is a spring in there, and when dirty and not allowed to move freely it will also give the impression of being warped. It's worth a try if nothing else. You'll only be out a couple bucks for the cleaner. | ||
| Hellgate |
I like the idea of the factory "vented' rotor. I don't kill the brakes either but on a 100+ degree day on the track it is nice to have a little more thermal capacity. I think for my level of riding the 5mm is fine. On my OEM disc I've got discoloration. That popped up after one day at Willow. The price for the OEM 5mm sounds fair too. Thanks for the heads up on needing to place the order. | ||
| Jdugger |
> Not even a hint of color change on the rotor. I do brake very light. Frankly, the OEM pad is a bad choice for you. It expects a rider that is, at least sometimes, rather aggressive with the brakes. I've not tried these, so I can't comment, but they do seemed aimed at a more street/commute rider, and you might find them favorable for the way you ride the bike. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/9260.html But certainly, don't put another set of the OEM pads on. They aren't a good choice for you. Clean your rotors and try a different pad. | ||
| Fmaxwell |
I'm rather aggressive on the brakes and the Lyndall Gold pads that I put on my six-piston ZTL brake on my XB12Ss really improved braking linearity and feel. They really reduced of the light-switch on/off tendency of the stock brake. They were on my list of upgrades for my 1125CR. | ||
| Chevycummins |
Jdugger, I think I'll try those pads and see what happens. Thanks to all of you for the info. |
