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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through November 06, 2009 » CR High Bar Throttle Sticking « Previous Next »

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Archive through November 01, 2009Dmhines30 1 11-01-09  10:00 pm
         

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Avc8130
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Have you guys tried cable lube?
ac
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Dmhines
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 10:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Froggy .. didn't you buy your CR with the HIGH BARS. How was the throttle working from the dealer? Does the throttle on the Clubmans feel better?
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 10:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Yes I bought it from the dealer with the High bars. No issues with it sticking ever.

I was getting some sticking with the throttle if the bars were full lock left, but no issues during riding. I didn't check to see if its still doing that after my 100 odd mile ride home. Oh, did I mention these clubmans are awesome?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 10:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Once again:

ADJUST THEM AT THE THROTTLE BODY.

I've ridden a number of CRs with the '09 high bar conversion parts, and - WHEN PROPERLY ADJUSTED - the cables don't bind one bit. Not at left lock; not at right lock; not during riding conditions.

Don't blame the parts. They work just fine...WHEN CORRECTLY INSTALLED AND ADJUSTED. Take your time, use patience, and they'll work just FINE.

(Message edited by ratbuell on November 01, 2009)
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Avc8130
Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 11:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
How do you suggest adjusting at the throttle body?
ac
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Fmaxwell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 03:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
@Ratbuell: "Don't blame the parts. They work just fine...WHEN CORRECTLY INSTALLED AND ADJUSTED. Take your time, use patience, and they'll work just FINE."

No, they don't work "just fine." That's probably why Buell changed the design to straight cables (without the 45° hard bend at the throttle) when they made the high bars standard in 2010.

You are not as particular about throttle action as others are. For a point of reference, "fine" to me would be how a Magura 314 throttle feels with a fresh, high-quality cable going to a good Mikuni or Keihin carb. Anything less runs the gamut from "pretty good" to "horrible."

The accessory high bar Buell cables are just acceptable when properly routed and adjusted. Mine don't bind up to the point where the return spring doesn't work or it's difficult to turn, but it's obvious that there is more internal friction with the new cables. The throttle doesn't snap back with same authority.

The internal cables are too short -- not enough extends. I have mine adjusted all of the way to full-loose at all four adjustment points (push/pull cables at the throttle bodies and the throttle) and there is almost no play. They are routed identically to the factory clubman cables. I'm hoping that cable stretch will resolve that aspect of the problem.

It actually is the parts rather than everyone who is dissatisfied with them.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 07:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I noticed h-d had put both locking nuts on the back side of the adjustment I thought someone made a booboo maybe its me that made the booboo. I know how to adjust a cable this cable binds if I put 1 finger above 2 below and gently push the cables are not very good if they were stronger there would be no problems if you misaligned it by 3 mm. The in and out of the adjustment seem to have no effect I am gonna try to put 1 cable behind the wires and 1 in front lube the crap out of em and rewiretie them later
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
AC - as stated above, I don't have any hands-on experience yet as my personal bike still has the clubmans. I'll ask Joe at the shop about the adjustments, he's done the most of 'em so far.

To be honest, knowing what a PITA they are to get properly adjusted...if/when I do the swap, I'll probably just leave all the high-bar cables and lines installed if I ever go back to clubmans. I'll have a little more loop in them...but that should be just fine. Main thing I want to avoid is the bleeding of the brake/clutch cables.

Now...has anyone put '09 and '10 cables SIDE BY SIDE to verify they are, in fact, different? Same part number tells me they're the same part. HD and Buell are VERY good about changing the suffix on a superseded part when they make a change (i.e. "02A8" to "02A8A". So again - has anyone VERIFIED with side by side comparison the difference? Or are we just going on a stock photo of what is likely a preproduction motorcycle?

The only change I've noted is the fact that when you bought the conversion out of the '09 catalog, you had to buy a bar, and 2 cables, and 2 lines - seperate parts. In the '10 catalog, it's a KIT that includes all pieces in one box. Mine's in the garage; the '10 kit. I'll look at my cables to be safe when I get home from work today.

Remember - the 1125r had amber turn signal lenses in the mirrors at first. Preproduction bike in the photos.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 08:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I believe you will have to change the cables as they will bind if they a little to long it really is a touchy set up that I am bound and determined to figure out, I got all winter
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Dmhines
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
RatBuell ... appreciate you asking Joe .. let us know what tips and tricks he has used to get them working properly. Hopefully he has done some swaps himself.
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Dmhines
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 10:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
You can kinda see the cables in this eBay auction for a High Bar CR. They don't appear to have 45 degree bends. Is this how your guys cables look? Check out the piture showing the throttle cables.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-CR-2009-Buell -1125CR-red-with-high-bar-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQha shZitem2557138783QQitemZ160374687619QQptZUSQ5fmoto rcycles
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Fmaxwell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
@Ratbuell,

You're absolutely right that I just based my comments about the 2010 cables from photos:

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/507789.html

And it's quite possible that the angle of that photo obscured the bend in the cable housings. I suspect that it did if they have the same part numbers.

But there is no doubt that the cable routing is different in that photo. The instrument cluster doesn't have the cutout slots for the cables.

Anyone with a 2010 CR that can verify whether the 2010 photo is the same as your bike?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
DM - I checked with Joe, he's done all but one of our conversions. He says he starts with making the cables as short as possible at the throttle body (i.e. putting the sheath as close to the throttle cam as possible), then trial-and-error adjusting from there at both the grip and the throttle body.

Is it ideal that it requires this much work? Probably not.

Does it work out just fine in the end? It has on the ones I've ridden.

I'll update folks when I get home tonight as to the cable style in the new '10 "kit" setup, as opposed to the buy-them-seperately '09 stuff.
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Oddball
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
That ebay auction is a member here I think. Looks like one that was in the for sale area.

Maybe you could get him to snap you a couple pics of the area you are discussing.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Thanks guys I will be farting with it later I will try to take a picwhen I get it worked out
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Anyone with a 2010 CR that can verify whether the 2010 photo is the same as your bike?

You have an audience of ONE with that question. It's a dealer in Honolulu, and apparently the only domestic-market '10 CR built.
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Avc8130
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 02:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I volunteer to fly to Honolulu and take spy photos. Send plane tickets/expenses to me in PM.
ac
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Here is just about every new part on the 2010 1125 models. I don't see any cables.

17.2AT PLUG, HEADLIGHT, RIGHT Retail Price:$2.00
M0118.2AT PLUG, HEADLIGHT, LEFT Retail Price:$2.00
M0759.2AT DECAL, FLYSCREEN, LEFT Retail Price:$8.50
M0760.2AT DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, LEFT Retail Price:$21.25
M0761.2AT DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, RIGHT Retail Price:$21.25
M0762A.2AT GRAPHIC, RADIATOR POD,BLACK,SILVER, LEFT Retail Price:$21.25
M0762B.2AT GRAPHIC, RADIATOR POD, BLK, RD, SLVR RT Retail Price:$21.25
M0762C.2AT GRAPHIC, RADIATOR POD, BLACK, SILVER, RT Retail Price:$21.25
M0762D.2AT GRAPHIC, RADIATOR POD, BLK, RD, SLVR LT Retail Price:$21.25
M0769.2AT DECAL, A/BOX CVR, BLK/RED, LEFT &RIGHT Retail Price:$15.00
M0770.2AT DECAL, A/BOX CVR, RED/BLK, LEFT& RIGHT Retail Price:$15.00
M1224.2ATMBK INTAKE COVER KIT, RACING RED, W/DECAL Retail Price:$219.00
M1224.2ATMW INTAKE COVER KIT, MIDNIGHT BLACK,W/DECAL Retail Price:$219.00
M1601.2ATMAW FLYSCREEN KIT, SCALOPD,ARTICWHITEW/DECAL Retail Price:$71.00
M3034.2ATMAW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,ARCTC WHT,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3034.2ATMBK RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,RACING RD,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3034.2ATMW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,MDNGT BLK,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.2ATMAW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,ARCTC WHT,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.2ATMBK RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,RACING RD,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.2ATMW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,MDNGT BLK,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
CR0001.3AM PISTON LINING, 22X17,8X4,0 Retail Price:$18.70
CR0002.3AM PISTON LINING, 41X36,8X4,0 Retail Price:$21.80
G0321.3AM AXLE, REAR Retail Price:$55.50
H0506.3AM BUSHING, DRIVE, FRONT ROTOR Retail Price:$2.75
L0600.3AMYCX FRAME KIT, 1125, 49-STATE Retail Price:$1,777.00
L0601.3AMYCX FRAME KIT, 1125, CANADA Retail Price:$1,777.00
L0605.3AMYCX FRAME KIT, 1125, CALIFORNIA Retail Price:$1,777.00
M0725.3AM DECAL, A/BOX CVR, SLVR, RED BLK, L&R Retail Price:$15.00
M0744.3AM DECAL, FRT FAIRING, SLVR/BLK/RED, LEFT Retail Price:$15.00
M0744A.3AM DECAL, FRT FAIRING, BLK/SLVR/RED, LEFT Retail Price:$15.00
M0762.3AM DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, LEFT Retail Price:$21.25
M0762A.3AM DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, LEFT Retail Price:$21.25
M0763.3AM DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, RIGHT Retail Price:$21.25
M0763A.3AM DECAL, RADIATOR POD, BLK/SLVR/RED, RIGHT Retail Price:$21.25
M0769.3AM DECAL, A/BOX CVR, BLK/SLVR/RED,LT&RGHT Retail Price:$15.00
M0770.3AM DECAL, A/BOX CVR, BLK/SLVR/BLK, LT&RT Retail Price:$15.00
M1224.3AMMAW INTAKE COVER KIT, ARCTIC WHITE, W/DECAL Retail Price:$219.00
M1224.3AMMBK INTAKE COVER KIT, RACING RED, W/DECAL Retail Price:$219.00
M1224.3AMMW INTAKE COVER KIT, MIDNIGHT BLACK, W/DECA Retail Price:$219.00
M1621.3AMMAW FRONT FAIRING KIT, ARCTIC WHITE, W/DECAL Retail Price:$132.00
M1621.3AMMBK FRONT FAIRING KIT, RACING RED, W/DECAL Retail Price:$132.00
M1621.3AMMW FRONT FAIRING KIT,MIDNIGHT BLACK,W/DECAL Retail Price:$132.00
M3034.3AMMAW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,ARCTC WHT,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3034.3AMMBK RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,RACING RD,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3034.3AMMW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,LFT,MDNGT BLK,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.3AMMAW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,ARCTC WHT,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.3AMMBK RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,RACING RD,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
M3035.3AMMW RDTR OUTR SHROUD KIT,RGT,MDNGT BLK,W/DCL Retail Price:$99.95
Q0270.3AM INSPECTION GLASS Retail Price:$15.70
Q0271.3AM GASKET, SIGHT GLASS Retail Price:$2.80
Q0309.3AM RETAINING PLATE Retail Price:$6.00
Q0428.3AM WATERPUMP SHAFT ASSEMBLY Retail Price:$213.55
Q0430.3AM OIL SEAL, A 15X26X7 FPM Retail Price:$5.50
Q0431.3AM ROTARY SEAL Retail Price:$32.52
Q1127.3AM OIL FILLER PLUG W/ O-RING KIT Retail Price:$4.85
R0022A.3AM CLUTCH COVER ASSY Retail Price:$297.85
S0101.3AM HEADER ASSEMBLY, FRONT Retail Price:$245.00
S0102.3AM HEADER ASSEMBLY, REAR Retail Price:$245.00
T1120.3AM ENGINE UNIT, PREPPED, STANDARD THROTTLE Retail Price:$6,250.00
T1130.3AM ENGINE, PREPPED REDUCED PWR THRTTL BODY Retail Price:$6,250.00
V0002.3AM CYLINDER HEAD ASSY, REAR Retail Price:$655.00
W1001.3AM CRANKCASE SET Retail Price:$1,848.40
X0087.3AM SLEEVE Retail Price:$87.70
X1086.3AM HYDRAULIC PISTON KIT Retail Price:$80.45
Y0136.3AM WIRE HARNESS, W/FUSE LABELS Retail Price:$368.00
Y0240.3AM CONNECTOR, 6-WAY, TAB, JST 06(8-67)T-JWP Retail Price:$3.25
Y0241.3AM CONNECTOR, 6-WAY, REC., JST 06(8-67)R-JW Retail Price:$3.25
Y0500.3AM INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, MPH/KMH Retail Price:$275.00
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I checked the bag-o-cables that came with my high bar "kit" (this is the single part number out of the '10 accessory catalog).

One cable has a 90 degree end at the grip.

The other cable has a 45 degree at the grip.

I don't have anything to compare it to...but that's what I have in the bag in the garage (along with 2 hydraulic lines, one brake and one clutch; one LH grip; and a handful of zip ties).

There is no kit breakdown on H-Dnet to tell me individual part numbers.
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Dmhines
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Was your instruction sheet updated to show a 90 degree cable? The PDF that was posted shows both cables having 45 degree angles.

Mine is scheduled for delivery tomorrow so I will post what I have when I get home from work and open the box.

I also picked up some Prestone DOT 4 brake fluid tonight in preparation for the install. Is all DOT 4 fluid synthetic?? Just want to make sure I got the right stuff.

(Message edited by dmhines on November 02, 2009)
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Here are the throttle cables that came with my high bar CR and Brumbear's clubmans

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Dmhines
Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 09:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
According the all the pics ... the 2010 CR has no slots in the sides of the headlights for the cables. I see no mention of a new 2010 part for this.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
Thats because it has an 09 parts number, Ratbuell posted it before in one of the 400 high bar related threads.
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Dmhines
Posted on Wednesday, November 04, 2009 - 10:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)
I know the cables are 2009 part numbers. I mean the Headlight surround WITHOUT the slots ...
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