Author |
Message |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:00 pm: |
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Does anyone know off-hand the size of the hex socket for the inspection hole? I assume it is a hex. Also for the timing/CPS cover rivets, do you just start with a small size drill bit and keep increasing the bit size until the entire rivet is all drilled out? Anything to watch out for? Needless to say I want to check and if necessary adjust the static timing. Thanks. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 02:35 pm: |
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The hex is 3/8". The rivets are 5/32" Use a 5/32" bit and don't go to deep. If unsure put a stop on the drill bit, you only need to go about 1/4" deep to knock out the rivets. I tapped the holes on mine 10-32 and used Stainless button heads, some use sheet metal self tappers. Before buttoning back up blow out chips and rivet remains. |
14d
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 05:12 pm: |
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Self tapping screws for timing cover, HD PN 2662W. Probably easier to just grab some from a hardware store unless you're at the dealer for something else. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 09:09 pm: |
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Do what you want but IMO hex head self tappers belong in HVAC duct work in the basement. |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Wednesday, October 28, 2009 - 11:45 pm: |
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Ditto jramsey. I used stainless button head Phillips screws and tapped the holes. Looks better, works better, too. |
14d
| Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 12:20 am: |
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The HD one's are thread cutting, and effectively thread the holes in the base plate. Worked well so far. I put anti seize on them and the ones securing the base to the cover, as one of the original ones was seized and I had to use an EZ out on it. |
Kalali
| Posted on Thursday, October 29, 2009 - 07:40 am: |
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As always, very much appreciate the input and the tips. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Friday, October 30, 2009 - 12:10 pm: |
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I used the self tapping screws from HD, then installed regular button head hex screws from the hardware store. Didn't want to leave the self tapping in there permanently.. |
Kalali
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 05:50 pm: |
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I tried the method described in the ECMSPY tuning guide and the timing seemed to be OK. I asked my wife to look through the hole while I turned the rear wheel while watching the 0 and 5 window on ECMSPY. Turning the rear wheel (even with the bike in 5th gear) wasn't as easy as I expected and did require a good bit of force. Is that normal or I didn't quite get it in the 5th gear? |
Leftcoastal
| Posted on Sunday, November 01, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
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Spark plug removal will facilitate engine turnover process. |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 12:27 am: |
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kal, teh valve springs and compression can hinder movement. |
Pkforbes87
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 01:08 am: |
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Al is right (big surprise there) after the 10.5:1 upgrade, I physically couldn't turn Betty over with the rear wheel & 5th gear method without pulling the plugs. Even if you can turn it over without pulling them, it will be a lot easier to check timing after removing them because the engine turns over a little smoother instead of lurching away from TDC so suddenly on every revolution. |
Kalali
| Posted on Monday, November 02, 2009 - 07:05 am: |
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Damn, I feel so stupid now... Note to self: Do not work on bike, car, kitchen faucet on Saturday (or any) morning after you had too much to drink the night before. |