| Author | Message | ||
     Court |
>>>As always you're a gentleman and a scholar. I am not an you can be fined for that! I have made the change. Court | ||
| Wman |
Figures, first clean hands after installing M-6, second read throgh knowledge vault. Dohhl! Should I put 01 tensioner back in? | ||
| Wman |
Does anybody know if shifter pawl adjustment can be made with primary chain and clutch installed. Just intalled Baker shift drum and M-6. Shifts harder than with stock drum. Think I may have pushed to hard on crank and missalinged drum. Want to try to readjust while leaving as much of tranny as I can. While I'm in there going to lose M-6 put 01 back. | ||
| Jst |
Wayne, I can say with utmost certainty that no you can't. I pulled mine apart today. It's sitting with the primary off right now. I found a dealer the has not only the upgraded detent but they also have the upgraded tensioner and the springs clips needed to finish the project. Cudos to to New Smyrna HD for an excellent parts dept. JT | ||
| Sensei |
To my fellow buellers, This is my first post by the way, so I do not know anyone particular to put this attention too.. so any help would be appreciated. I am in the process of removing my main sprocket gear from the transmission. The reason I am doing this is because I want to get it sandblasted and powder coated. Can anyone give me some tips on what procedure I should take to be able get to this point. Do I need a rear stand to invest in this project? Thanks, David | ||
| Blake |
Sensei/David, No stand is necessary, but you will need a pneumatic impact wrench or to safely remove the nut. You can use a big socket wrench with extension but be careful not to damage the roller bearings, the longer the handle the better (lessens load applied to bearings). Note that the nut is reverse threaded (loosens counter-clockwise). Reassemble similarly to 50 FT-LBs and torque up to an additional 45o in order to allow installation of the nut's lockplate. | ||
| Rick_A |
I just got into my primary to replace the leaky gasket and a bent shift shaft. The rotor/sprocket nut was a real bitch. I guess that's not a bad thing, but after struggling uselessly with different ideas my neighbor lent me a portable electric impact wrench. That took care of the stubborn bastard in a mere few seconds. The clutch nut came off pretty easily with little hassle. I found my mechanism was a bit out of adjustment. If that was due to my woopsie or not, I don't know...but she never shifted too smoothly. My other hassle was the damn clutch cable. The manual calls for 3-5 ft-lbs on it but the damn thing stripped out with barely a few lbs. Loctite to the rescue. I need a thread pitch gauge so I can get a damn helicoil on the spot in these situations. Well, it's great not to leave tiny puddles anymore and she shifts better than ever now! | ||
| Reepicheep |
The impact wrench works best by far, but if you are ever in a bind somebody else suggested wrapping a towel in there, it gets stuck in the teeth in both sides and keeps things from rotating. Impact works better, but I used the towel method with a breaker bar once and it works in a pinch if you can't get impact. | ||
| Rick_A |
I even tried a towel-wrapped steel shaft in the rear wheel. I had the suspension about bottomed and it still didn't budge. | ||
| Blake |
Rick, How much force and subsequently how much torque would you say you put into trying to break the nut loose by hand? (torque = applied force in LBs x wrench length in FT) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Rick probably knows this already, but the towel thing I mentioned is to get it caught in the teeth on both primary sprockets, and do so in such a way that it can't wrap any further in either direction without ripping the towel in two pieces. That way the drive train is not loaded up, the wheel does not want to turn, the force is only on the primary chain and two sprockets. It is also very easy to reproduce the Harley "tool" if you have a chunk of aluminum laying around. To reinstall the nut, if you don't have a torque wrench that reads 150 foot pounds (or whatever it asks for), you can use a normal breaker bar and just stand on it at the correct distance. If you weigh 150 pounds, you would want to stand on the breaker bar one foot from the socket (150 foot pounds). 12" x Desired Torque = distance x your weight So if you want 150 foot pounds of torque, and weigh 220 pounds, it would be: 12" x 150 = x * 220 x = 8.1 inches So just stand such that your weight is about 8 inches out on your breaker bar. No bouncing  Bill "who obviously does not have a 150 pound torque wrench, and hopes to be back down to 220 by the time he has to do this again" | ||
| Rick_A |
I reckon I had 262 ft-lbs on that there nut. My weight 185lbs and a 17" wrench. I thought about wedging some wood in the sprockets...but thought it'd get too messy...wood splinters and all. | ||
| Phonemanjustin |
How much slack can there be in the primary chain before it needs to be replaced?  | ||
| Phonemanjustin |
I suck....  | ||
| Xb9 |
Oh boy. I hope your not serious. In case you are, you can't check the slack with the primary cover off, there's a primary chain adjuster that is mounted in the cover that set's the correct free play. You might want to purchase a service manual, seriously. | ||
| Phonemanjustin |
Perhaps I should rephrase the question. I know the tension on the chain is adjusted with the primary cover on. I was wondering how much the chain can stretch before it need to be replaced. I can almost pull the chain off without removing the sprocket. I am going to replace it anyway since the cover is off, and yes I do have a service manual | ||
| Reepicheep |
Good question Justin... I don't recall ever coming across that information in the manual. I suppose that so long as the adjuster is not out of bolt, and you can get within tension specs in all positions of the chain, you are probably OK to run it. I suspect that the chain stretches unevenly, and will be out of tolerance on the big side in one point of rotation, and out of tolerance on the low side in another point of rotation, and thats when you have to replace it. So if you are not out of bolt, and if the tension is within spec in all positions of rotation, you are probably fine. On the other hand, I assume failure gets more likely as it stretches though, and would HATE to see what a failed chain would do to the inside of my primary :0 Ouch. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I wonder if you can use the old drive chain method to determine wear. The old rule of thumb was to hold the chain tight on the rear sprocket, then grab a link at the back of the sprocket and lift. If you expose more than half of the sprocket tooth, the chan/sprockets need replacing. Some said you shouldn't be able expose over 1/3 of the tooth. Although I do recall seeing new chain/sprockets on my dirt bikes that were at slightly less than 1/4 brand new! They took many miles and poundings to get to 1/2 a tooth. I'm not sure if this method holds true for for a multi row chain. Think I'll give it a try next time my primary covers is off. Maybe if someone has the primary off a low mileage motor they could do a quick check for future reference.... Just thinking out loud............ Brad | ||
| Buelliedan |
Justin, That looks like normal slack to me. I have my X1 apart right now. It has 8,000 miles on it and it is about the same as your pic. I don't think you need to replace it. | ||
| Hootowl |
Wonder if you need to replace the sprockets at the same time as the chain? I'd guess yes. | ||
| Blake |
Rick, What gear was the tranny in when you used the towel wrapped bar through the rear wheel technique? | ||
| Buelliedan |
BTW, Getting the clutch pack and the rotor off is no easy feat. The clutch is left hand thread and it takes a serious breaker bar effort to get both those nuts to break loose the first time. | ||
| Deep11sh |
hi all has anyone used any of the automatic primary tensioners that are available ,i've just got a 98 s1 that still has the stock part in it and i dont know what to replace it with any thoughts guys | ||
| Hans |
Hi Deep11sh, Automatic tensioners are crap is the common opinion. Forgot why. Spring to weak and bad shifting I believe. Hans | ||
| Road_Thing |
Deep11sh, I assume you're referring to the Hayden units, they are common. The consensus of experience among the participants on this board is: They Break. I've gone through two myself, I think you'll be happier with the upgraded factory part, I know I am. r-t | ||
| Rick_A |
I had the sucker in 5th. Funny how easily the clutch nut came off in comparison. Ah well. Next time I'll have to save for an electric impact wrench | ||
| Blake |
Rick, Whew! I'm relieved. Good choice of gear! If the tranny were in a lower gear, especially if it were in 1st gear, it would act like a torque multiplier and could easily suffer significant damage to gears and bearings with so much torque applied at the engine output shaft. We should probably avoid using that method altogether though just to be safe. | ||
| Rick_A |
Yeah...probably. In my case it was very ineffective, anyway. | ||
| Fnrage |
OK Guys, Did I screw myself or not. I bought a used aluminum primary cover which I polished up. The stock cover came off fine without any hassle. I bought a new gasket, and seal for the shifter shaft. Got the aluminum cover on and going by the shop manuel the cover bolts call for 80-110 ft lbs. Being cautious I snugged all the bolts all the way around to approx 25 ft lbs. While beginning to torque them down I noticed they were getting a bit "springy". Well past experience tells me they're going to snap Right? So I double, then triple checked the torque specks again. Needless to say I busted one bolt, and stripped the threads out of the block on another. The broken bolt is no problem, but What about the stripped one. Any suggestions? I'm thinking of going with a bigger screw in that one so I can just tap it out further unless someone has a better idea. By the way It's only missing about 4 threads and it is located on the top just to the right of where the shifter arm sits. How about lock tight? And while we're at it is the torque spec correct on 80-110 ft lbs. Any help is appreciated............Rick | ||
| Fnrage |
Ok, Call me stupid. I just looked at the manuel again and i see it says inch lbs. Just need help wiht the stripped out screw now. Rick (crawling under a rock) |
