| Author | Message | ||
     Poppinsexz |
Having seen this in several threads I had to comment. You break-in your way, I'll break-in mine. It almost becomes an argument with some trying to force their views on others. Why, what do you gain? Does it make you feel empowered? I have been around motors for 20+ years and have seen all different methods. The factories build thousands of engines, then warranties them. Would they give the owner an incorrect break-in procedure? One that could screw up the engine? A race engine is not build to last but a specific(short) period of time. It also needs broke in fast. But does that style of break-in last for the long haul? I have to look at the data and wonder who would know more, the one who builds and tests thousands or the one who does hundreds. Oh well, I say it's your bike make up your own mind. BTW does anyone know FOR SURE what kind of oil is in the 1125's from the factory? Dyno or syn? | ||
| Sknight |
I'm new here, first post in fact, and I have to say I'm impressed. I can't stand the debate, and people always get truly upset when someone who built race engines for years disagrees with Motoman. Follow the builders instructions, whoever that is. No clue on oil from the factory, I'd suspect dino for break in. | ||
| Dentguy |
Let's hope this break-in thread doesn't go the same direction as most (it probably will). | ||
| Cafefun |
I always break mine hard some people think that's stupid but I've had very good luck that way. My old 2002 Busa I took to the drag strip as soon as it was out the crate had 12 miles on it before it's first pass. I put 450 runs on it and 8000 street miles then sold it and the guy now has 36700 miles on it with no problems. Couple of my old 14's are the same way. so far in 208 miles on my Buell I've been to redline maybe 8 times but have rode it hard to 8000 quit a bit. hopefull if it's as good as the jap bikes It will be strong with 30000 miles on it. | ||
| Doctorneon |
Well poppin, this is america and everyone can freely voice their opinion whatever it may be. I read yours and being an engine builder around engines for more than 53 years I would have to say there are merits on both sides. If I'm building a older engine say a triumph, norton, older H-D, something along those lines I'd say take it easy for awhile. Todays engines are built to different specs such as different cylinder liners etc. And in my opinion should be broken in differently. Just an educated opinion mind you.  | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Doctor I don't see your statement as a jab. Just an opinion, which is great. I agree we should be able to share an opinion. I guess my point was about the forcefullness of some. "Do it my way it's the only way or your an idiot" no they didn't say this exactly but the insinuation is there. I just got tired of it, maybe I'm cranky this morning. I need to go ride.  | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Would they give the owner an incorrect break-in procedure? Liability. How many newbies would kill themselves if the break-in procedure included redline runs? This thread is lame and pointless. | ||
| Moosestang |
I don't think it matters that much either way. The manual also recommends to only use Harley davidson wash to clean your bike. I think warming it up good before beating on it is way more important than how you break it in. | ||
| Sknight |
Newbies? Do you honestly believe that someone new that will purchase a bike like this would honestly care about break in? | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
IMHO, it probably doesn't matter how you break it in. Think about it. There are those that do the motoman thing and get good results. There are those that do the factory thing and get good results. Neither of them seems to blow up motors. That tells me that it doesn't really matter! With contemporary engine building technologies and machining processes, there is probably not a whole lot to wear in. Neither is bad, and both are good. There is no evidence that I have seen that contradicts the preceding statement. TaaaDaaaaa! For my next trick, the immovable force meets the chicken and the egg! R | ||
| Amrra12 |
then why even start this dumb thread? it's looks like your looking for a fight  | ||
| Doctorneon |
which one was first the immovable force or the chicken and the egg?? Inquiring minds want to know. | ||
| 1_mike |
I wonder just how many people realize just what is happening during a "break-in" procedure...? What needs to be "run-in"...what doesn't. How different methods effect the outcome of the procedure on the different parts. By the question being asked itself, not many realize what's going on in there. "Then"...they form an opinion from one post that LOOK's right of from a person that they like...all of a sudden...they are experts. Personally...I think more should actually learn and understand the internal workings of an internal combustion engine and just how these parts interact with each other. Forget all the myths and legends and wives tails...learn the facts...get some real world experience...then with a few years of real experience...form a good breal-in procedure for yourself. Otherwise...just follow the manual. Or - It's been a while, so I don't recall the details...but as I recall, the Motomans reasonings are pretty close. Just anothers opinion... Mike | ||
| Ridenusa4l |
FWIW, I broke in my FIRST engine (08') the factory way...it lasted 11k mi. then broke a valve and DEMOLISHED the engine.. With the new engine(09') I've done the motoman way and as far as a i can tell...HUGE difference in engine noise and performance/efficieny, for the BETTER...only time can tell how long this one will last(hopefully 100k+ lol) idk if it was the break in or if the first engine was just bad....but so far with about 2k on the new engine, its heaps better than the old one ever was... Jake | ||
| Chadhargis |
All I can say is visit the factory while you still can. You'll see the bikes roll off the assembly line, get strapped to a dyno, and run to redline in every gear. No warm up, no break in....just BAM....redline. Modern manufacturing being what it is, tolerances are good, metallurgy is much improved, and lubricants are light years better than in the past. Do whatever you feel comfortable with. I really don't think it matters as long as you don't lug the motor, that's bad any time. | ||
| Berto |
I think that it has more to do with lawyers than engineers. | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
Just don't downshift from 6th to 5th at more than 50mph, whatever you do!!!  WARNING - Do not downshift at speeds higher than those listed in the Changing Gear Speeds table. Shifting to lower gears when speed is too high can cause the rear wheel to lose traction and lead to loss of vehicle control, which could result in death or serious injury.  Think how awful it would be if the bike *didn't* have a slipper clutch! KeS | ||
| Busterx |
break in periods are usaly used to seat rings and valves. when dealing with race motors we would just run them through a few heat cycles and change the oil. heat cycles will help seat the rings and draining the oil after a break in because the oil is like a cleaner in a new motor. Catastrophic engine failers in new motors are normally from part failers or assambly errors not from lack of a break in period. like a previous post if you ever been the HD plant they pretty much run the crap out of them right off the line.but some builders say break it in how you will run it. so I don't think there is a right answer. JMO | ||
| Superdavetfft |
I've been wrenching for years, ASE cert, etc... IMHO engine break in really consists of a few key things, keep the temps in operational ranges, not too cold and not too hot, and then simple keep the RPMs down a bit. With every moving part wearing in at the same time you'll have increased friction=more heat which 'could' lead to failures of some kind in extreme cases. Also, until the first oil change you have the raw wear materials floating around in your oil slowing filter flow slightly, again another reason to keep RPMs down. Once an engine has a few hours on it and you've replaced the oil you can step up your break in RPM limit a bit more etc etc... my two cents superdave | ||
| Fmaxwell |
I get suspicious of any break-in procedure which is more fun, quicker, and easier than the factory recommended one. It's like religion: It's so appealing that people really want to believe it. They look for explanations that support the belief and dismiss arguments against it. Anecdotal evidence from people who say that they used a procedure and it worked well is nothing like actual engineering where engineers tear down the engine, inspect the wear, do oil analysis, measure compression and cylinder leak-down, look at parts under microscopes, etc. | ||
| Dirty_john |
engine break in is all about raising the operating temperatures in a predictable way to polish up contact surfaces etc, factory test runs are very short time operations, I agree that the most important aspect is not to lug an engine at low revs, especially the 1125 engine which redlines quite high. Each of us will have our own methods, I have been following mine for the best part of 35 years, manufacturing techniques have improved somewhat which as noted allows for a more aggressive break in regime. Do what seems right and change oil and filters regularly. good luck |
