| Author | Message | ||
     Milleniumx1 |
Yes, I'm afraid I just can't resist ... Even after a search and reading through various threads. I know opinions vary on what's the best approach, but I think we're all pretty clear that solenoid activation at WOT isn't a great idea. So the question >> Instead of using the resister plug and removing the solenoid mechanism assembly, can't one just remove the CABLE only and leave everything else in place? I can't see how you'd get the error message if the solenoid 'thinks' it is working. Mike | ||
| P_squared |
There are 3 ways to "defeat the 'noid": 1) Remove the cable & leave it plugged in. 2) Unplug it & leave cable attached after putting on the $6 resistor. 3) Complete 'noidectomy All 3 accomplish the same ultimate goal of preventing the 'noid activating. All 3 will cause a CEL condition when the correct conditions are met to activate the 'noid after it has been disabled. The CEL is no cause for alarm. It will clear the next time you start the bike. "Search" is your friend here on BWB. | ||
| Xl1200r |
You'll still get a CEL because the ECM will tell the 'noid to activate, but the TPS won't register a change, and blamo, light. My thing is, the plug is a whopping $6, and you have to take apart just as much to remove everything as you do to just remove the cable. Just take it all out. The weight savings alone are worth it. And for teh record, before 'noid removal I never experienced it coming on. After 'noid removal, I've never gotten a CEL indicating that it would have activated had it still been in there. | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
That is because you don't go wot it under 4000 rpms. Which is good. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Thanks guys ... Once the bike arrives at my house, and the rain stops, I will take it out and purposefully engage it. Then by comparison, not having it happen post de-noid will seem like time well spent. My wife is pretty used to me modifying a thing or two on brand new vehicles. Skip shift eliminators on GM 6-speeds, smaller pulleys on supercharged vehicles, race kit on my first Buell (2000 X1). Just part of the fun, right?! | ||
| Kevin_stevens |
\blueThat is because you don't go wot it under 4000 rpms. Which is good.}  Don't see why that would be considered good OR bad. KeS} | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
Helps keep the front wheel on the ground.....  R | ||
| Marcodesade |
MilleniumX1: Removing the cable is the easiest solution (by about 2 minutes, not counting time to go buy the plug). But removing the whole thing is, in my opinion, far preferable. Not only do you free up some space down there (not really an issue for me so far), but you also lose about 2 pounds. Two pounds here, two pounds there, and sooner or later it's gotta make a difference. | ||
| T_man |
Another good reason to do a complete 'noidectomy'; without the $6 plug (even with the cable removed) the bike will still 'stutter' when whacked wide open in that special RPM range. It must have something to do with the ECU sensing that something is amiss - trust me; while not as bad as the full 'fall flat on its face' throttle cutback, the stutter is still annoying. | ||
| Zac4mac |
T-man did you tie the throttle plates together also? The spring linkage between the throttle plates will allow the butterflies to flutter. By the rear intake is where you tie them. Open the throttle, then while open, pull on the noid cable to see where to tie them solid. This step is as/more important than disconnecting the noid itself. Z | ||
| T_man |
Zac; I tied the throttle plates together - there is zero play between them. I verified everything exactly as you describe above when I first got the bike. The stutter I speak of is about 5% of the magnitude of the original noid stumble - but annoying nonetheless. Sly mentioned that I might cure it with the $6 plug - of which I have yet to install (winter is here in Canada already!). Thanks for trying to diagnose the problem though! | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
I'll see if I can put 100 miles on it before taking parts off of it ... Unless it's raining, and then what choice would I have  Thanks guys for the input. Search is useful (and great pics!), but I tend to like most-current perspectives, including plus/minus input. Mike | ||
| Zac4mac |
All the $6 plug does is simulate the load of the noid's coil so the ECM thinks one is there. You will still get a CEL if you hit the right conditions to set the noid. The TPS is in the system and it will tell the ECM nothing happened to the throttle when it was supposed to close. T-man, any stumble you have after de-noid/tie-up would be a fuel/spark thing. MM said the plug would fix it???? Zack | ||
| Jumpinjewels |
Here you are again!!!! WOW | ||
| Zac4mac |
Julie- I have "lived" on this board since August of 07. I'm quite sure I've read every post in the 1125 section except stuff added to posts after going to the archives... I can't wait to play with all the new 1125s out here y'all just got. Zack | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Still raining here - Suspension set-up (at least initially) now, ready to de-noid once I get the resistor plug in the mail. Since I've heard the bike isn't allergic to rain, I might just have to get wet soon! Thanks for the additional insight and sanity check ... Mike (Message edited by milleniumx1 on October 26, 2009) | ||
| Dmhines |
So the only benefit to the resistor plug is that you can remove the solenoid and not get a constant CEL ...but you still get an occasional CEL ?? That sucks. | ||
| D_adams |
I have not gotten the CEL in the last 10,000 miles. Mine's been denoided since maybe the 2nd week, had the loss of power happen twice, yanked the solenoid off, got the plug a week later, no codes since then. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
I ordered the plug as part of a larger order with American Sport Bike a couple of days back. I finally got to take the bike on its first ride today ... All 67 miles worth. BTW, I must have tried a dozen times (in the right trigger conditions) and could not get that solenoid to activate. I'd like to feel it once prior to ripping it out ... I'm old school like that! Mike | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I'd like to feel it once prior to ripping it out ... I'm old school like that! Uhhh...it's nothing good I can tell you that. Think about the motor spooling up under a WFO throttle, then someone shutting the motor off. It's scary and dangerous under the right (wrong) circumstances. I had it happen several timess early on and as I was leaned over, driving out of corners. Not good. I originally thought it was related to the bad fueling issues that plagued the early 2008s. It was a short time later that the cat was let out of the bag and we found out about the evil solenoid and noise emissions. Cut it loose! | ||
| Dbolemiss |
Well after 22 miles on my 09 R I felt the power of the niod.My resister is ordered and will be installed in a couple of days. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Fresno, I don't have the balls to go WFO in a corner yet ... I was playing it safe on straight stretches. I'm not exactly owning those corners yet, but I'll be working on it Mike |
