| Author | Message | ||
     Swordsman |
Once again, I lack the necessary tools to complete the job. Can anyone clue me in to what size the nut is on the primary sprocket? I didn't find anything about it in the Search, only the torque specs. Thanks! (and how much does a torque wrench that can reach 260' cost...?) ~SM | ||
| Hughlysses |
Don't have the nut size handy, but go to your local auto parts store and check out their loaner torque wrenches. Otherwise you'll have to plop down a couple of hundred bucks minimum. | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I got a torque wrench at Autozone or Advance (always get those two red and orange places mixed up) It goes up to 250 ft/lbs and was around $50. Very cheaply made, but no more often than I'm going to use it, it's nice to have around. As for the nut size, it's big. Sorry I can't be more help  | ||
| Oddalloy |
I believe it's 1-1/8 inch and the clutch hub is 1-3/16 inch. | ||
| Swordsman |
My dad has an old Craftsman one that hits 250... I just got off the phone w/ him and he said I could borrow it. Cost him $90 back in the 70's!  ~SM | ||
| Oddalloy |
You know you need the locking-bar-wedgie-thingie right? | ||
| Indy_bueller |
You can use a towel stuffed between the chain and sprocket. | ||
| Blake |
Ever think to pull out a measuring tape or ruler and measure the nut? | ||
| Swordsman |
Pfft, Blake, I'm an artist, not a rocket scientist!  (translates as "Doh!") I already have the locking bar... picked one up from Al way back when for just such an occasion. ~SM | ||
| Hughlysses |
Important safety tips for install- 1. It's a good idea to have a helper to keep the bike steady when you're putting that gorilla torque on the nut. I had plenty of trouble keeping my S3 on the stand that only had to go to 200 ft-lbs. 2. Remove all traces of old Locktite (wire brush if necessary) on crank and nut threads and clean with brake cleaner. 3. Liberally apply liquid red Locktite (NOT the "paste" kind) to the threads before installing the nut and finish torquing ASAP. I didn't follow all the steps above- it probably took me ~10 minutes to get the thing torqued and I used the paste type Locktite. The nut on my S3 worked loose ~500 miles later after I'd sold the bike to Buelltours. Luckily he found an HD mechanic that recognized the noise and fixed it before anything was damaged. Just trying to help you avoid my mistake. | ||
| Swordsman |
Well, I was hoping to just crank it down without removing anything else. Don't really fancy the idea of trying to get the sprocket off.... It doesn't even seem loose right now, just thought I'd go ahead and hit it while I had the fluid drained and was replacing the clutch cable. ~SM | ||
| Hughlysses |
Well, if it's torqued to ~210 ft-lbs under the old spec with red Loctite properly applied and you re-torque it to ~250 ft-lbs, it seems like you'd destroy the Loctite bond and run the risk of it working loose. I think you need to do the whole thing or leave it alone. | ||
| Ducbsa |
I have another bike with a similar setup and use a non-impact socket, but hand ground the end flat to maximize the contact area on the fairly thin nut. This eliminated the chamfer(?) on the socket. I only use blue loctite on it and it has worked. Removal after using red loctite would require heat, but, of course, that is 1000X better than having the nut unscrew. An impact socket would be safer, also. | ||
| Swordsman |
Aye carumba. This stupid fluid change is getting out of hand!  ~SM | ||
| Swordsman |
Hugh, after much thought, I agree about breaking the original thread locker seal. I think I'm going to just leave it alone. It doesn't seem to be loose, and I'm thinking "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." My luck, I'd take it apart, put it back together, and THEN start having issues. I'll just keep all this stuff in mind should the problem ever arise. ~SM | ||
| Blake |
Excellent decision. Great advise Hugh! | ||
| Swordsman |
Okay! Finally buttoned everything up this afternoon. Only one snag: stripped the HELL out of the little pinch hickey that grips the shifter shaft. Thought the pinch bolt was a little hesitant, but I was using a short allen wrench, so I didn't think there was really anything amiss. WRONG! When it finally came out the other side, it was freewheeling. Now I can just slide it back and forth on the shifter.  Luckily it's s tiny part and easy to replace. On the up side, HOLY COW my clutch works great! I replaced the clutch cable during all this, and I had NO idea how much the corrosion was hampering the cable movement! (you guys that complain about the "heavy clutch" REALLY ARE wusses!  ) ~SM |
