| Author | Message | ||
     Barker |
I have a 09 1125R with 12 miles on her. I know what the book says, but should I moto-man break-in her on a dyno or did they do that @ the factory on that duell wheel dyno? Please advise. | ||
| Geforce |
Barker... the ONLY thing I would "break in" would be your brakes... These motors will loosen up a bit with more mileage and run better and better as you ADD mileage. I would go by the book and take it easy on the RPMs for the time being. I think the biggest thing to avoid is WOT snaps and constant RPM cruising. I tried to vary mine as much as I could during those first few miles and while I did exceed the RPM limit... it was gentle and not sustained. Let it be known this is my opinion. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I broke Loretta in with 3-400 miles of 60-100mph 6th gear WOT/Shut off. Always stayed within rev limits in manual until the 620 mile point. 22239 miles, gearing up for a ~3000 mile roadtrip to East Troy next week. Zack | ||
| White79bu |
I ran the crap out of my bike from day one. I did my first track day with my 1125r when it had 300 miles on it. | ||
| Doctorneon |
Worm up the bike and for twenty miles run the shit out of it up to redline in the gears let off the gas and down shift then up again. Bring it home change the oil and filter using regular oil, then after whatever the normal milage is change the oil and filter and go with synthetic. When the engine is new the honing on the cylinders are the sharpest to seat the rings. If you e-mail me I'll give you a link that in depth discusses this technique. | ||
| Barker |
like this? http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm | ||
| Bicycle_man |
I agree with Geforce...pay attention to the brakes...I had NO rear at first then it came on one day, luckily I didn't flatspot my Corsa. I varied the RPMs for the first 600 miles and didn't take it above 8K. Read the manual and set up the suspension to your weight with equipment and full tank. I just did this and it made bike feel much better in corners and braking. Man they're FUN bikes!! I passed a guy on a Speed triple last night...he pulled up at the next light,"WHAT is that thing? WOW!" | ||
| Doctorneon |
Yes, that's the link mototuneusa read it and do it or else. | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
+1 on the rear brake... I was upset at how bad my rear brake was it had no stopping power and was noisy (reverberation)... It came around and now I'm quite happy with it | ||
| Sl33py |
I'm really curious about the (edit) MotoMan break in process - who has done it and does it really work better than OEM's slow break in? thx! Signing paperwork tonight for an 09R! (Message edited by sl33py on October 20, 2009) | ||
| Ccryder |
MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan, MotoMan 29,000 miles ago and running stronger everyday. No need for the dyno just follow his "suggestions". After the first 50 miles change the oil, then 300 miles and finally at the 6k recommended. Get'r done and ready to RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Like Zac, I used a hybrid method. Staying below 6,000 RPM band moving up and down the rev range. Closing the throttle completely and letting the motor decelerate. Then doing it again. I was happy with it. The best thing is to get in some 2nd or 3rd gear twisties and let the road break in your bike for you. | ||
| Hellgate |
MotoMan rocks, simple, easy, fast and complete. | ||
| Sl33py |
sorry for the thread jack... I want to break in the engine the best way possible. The tough part is finding somewhere nearby that i can go WOT w/o getting arrested. I'll start scoping out some spots on the way to the dealership... So Hellgate - did you do the MotoMan process as well then? Not sure what the "hybrid" of the MotoMan and OEM would be - just to keep it below redline, or below 6k RPMs? Thanks guys - I'm SUPER STOKED to finally get my 25R! | ||
| Hellgate |
I did, on this bike and my previous one. I've been doing MotoMan since before there was a MotoMan. When I raced back in the '80's I had to break new motors in and its kinda hard to put a track bike on the street. Here's what we did; warm the bike up, do a moderate 15 minute session, being sure to trail throttle from the 80% rpm range. Change oil. Repeat. Then to go 100% throttle, change oil a final time. My race engines would last two seasons or about 40+ hours of racing and practice. When we took them apart there was never a problem. A lot of the time we reused the same parts, simply honed and put in fresh rings. There is a lot on the web about this. I think the mfgs take the safe route on purpose, but that is okay, I don't blame them. Don't forget to seat your break pads too, that is the most important thing. Not because the Buell is unique but because it is the smart thing to do. (Message edited by hellgate on October 23, 2009) | ||
| Hellgate |
I did, of this bike and my previous one. I've been doing MotoMan since before there was a MotoMan. When I raced back in the '80's I had to break new motors in and its kinda hard to put a track bike on the street. Here's what we did; warm the bike up, do a moderate 15 minute session, being sure to trail throttle from the 80% rpm range. Change oil. Repeat. Then to go 100% throttle, change oil a final time. My race engines would last two seasons or about 40+ hours of racing and practice. When we took them apart there was never a problem. A lot of the time we reused the same parts, simply honed and put in fresh rings. There is a lot on the web about this. I think the mfgs take the safe route on purpose, but that is okay, I don't blame them. Don't forget to seat your brake pads too, that is the most important thing. Not because the Buell is unique but because it is the smart thing to do. (Message edited by hellgate on October 23, 2009) | ||
| Slypiranna |
MotoMan procedures...and don't use syn until you know she is as good as shes gonna get. | ||
| Danxb9r |
What are moto mans credentials? I'm following Buell engineers advise which is to vary the revs and keep her under 6k for 300 miles than very the revs to 7.5k until 620. Good luck with whatever you choose. | ||
| Cheddarheads4erik |
Use whichever throttle ideas you want, but change the oil sooner than recommended; the 50 and 300 mile numbers are pretty decent, then the @ 600 mile service. | ||
| Ccryder |
Dan: Read his background and understand what he is stating. You can do it w/o violating the MFG suggestions. My last 5-6 bikes over 10+ years have all been broken in that way. None had any issues. Probably 250,000+ miles represented in those 10+ years. Time2Ride (oh yeah 29,000+ miles 20 months, no issues) | ||
| Sl33py |
I am doing the motoman(ish) method - more like Fresno and a few others. keeping it below 6k, changed the oil last night after about 30 or so miles. LOTS of fine silver dust on the magnet - WOW. I expected some, but it was totally full. I am putting some more dino in for the next couple hundred mi and then change again until the 620 service. I was surprised that the oil i drained was cloudy. Not like most oil i've run before which is amber. It didn't look or smell like coolant - just "cloudy". Don't know how to describe it better. Anyone chime in on this? Seemed odd, but there is purple oil too...  | ||
| Cheddarheads4erik |
Yeah Sl33py, I agree on your assessment. It is funny looking. Drained my wife's @ 94 miles; I always paper filter these "break-in" oils through a funnel into a large oil container to use in one of our older cars, at it's next oil change. Hers looked almost like that green/cloudy you are describing. | ||
| Sl33py |
Thanks Cheddar! glad it's nothing to worry about. Is it HD dino oil that looks like this, or regularly amber that turns cloudy because of the break-in? Anyway - reading up on the online manual so i can finish my oil change when i get home. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I re-read motoman and the good thing is that he says 80% of the ring seating is done in the first 20 miles. So get on a nice stretch of country road, find 3rd or 4th gear and run it hard until 6,000 RPM (or maybe a bit past), then roll off and use engine braking until its time to gas again. After the first 40-50 roll on/off miles (I have a nice 10-12 stretch of road near my work) the rest of break-in can be handled well in the twisties as RPM will vary enough. I really think that the droning at a constant RPM is the enemy here. I will change oil only at 50 miles or so, then oil/filter at 600 and then goto synthetic at about 1,000 or 1,200. | ||
| Ccryder |
Yep his basic premise is sound and has proven out for me. BTW on the 1125 you will be in 2nd and 3rd other wise you will be over the speed limit. The r is geared for 69mph in 1st at 10.5. Oh yeah, grabbing a handfull at 4.5 and running to 6k will make the front end VERY light if not in the air. I had a lot of fun doing the first 50 miles, made me respect it's power quickly. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
BTW on the 1125 you will be in 2nd and 3rd other wise you will be over the speed limit. The r is geared for 69mph in 1st at 10.5. ONly for redline runs. For those of us that are trying to stick closer to factory RPM guidelines, higher gears should be fine. | ||
| Ccryder |
If you are riding an 1125r, 3rd gear at 6,000 rpm is a touch over 70mph. Yeah if you are riding an 1125cr (mathmatically speaking) you will be at 64 mph. This bike has looooong legs, as the Italians used to say! | ||
| Swamp2 |
Are folks changing the oil AND the filter at these early (50, 300 mile) intervals or holding off until the 600 change? | ||
| Ccryder |
Always filter |
