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Mikej
| Posted on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 01:53 pm: |
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Home-made repair frame Don't know how stable or solid this is, but found the link indirectly from a discussion on SacBORG to this site for the FJR1300. Basically the stand is some plumbing pipe and t-joints and elbow joints. Quick and easy and relatively cheap. Don't know how functional it is though. Might build one anyway. |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Monday, February 10, 2003 - 04:46 pm: |
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Humm ... Dunno Mike, I'm not knocking the concept, but it looks pretty unstable to me and butt-ugly. I would think one could do something similar with square (or rectangular tubing), make it adjustable, add few gussets on the legs and have something a little more functional. Cheers, -JW:> |
Sarodude
| Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 04:59 pm: |
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Bike lifts at Costco for around $90! These are the same things that Harley dealer sell for 2 or 3 times the price, Sears sells for around $120, and JCW sells for something even more than that. Granted these can be of limited use to a Bueller - but it's something to note nontheless. -Saro |
S2pengy
| Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2003 - 06:31 pm: |
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Buell S3 and S2 owners with dash clocks... Are you tired of the clock being the only gauge on your dash without a chrome bezel???? HD sells a chrome bezel cover kit for the touring models that with some RTV works quite well, with the RTV it is just about a perfect fit.The part number is 74550-92T and cost is $15.95. Note this is for 2 bezels... |
Knickers
| Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 11:53 am: |
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Tip for removing engine temp sensor for models (?2000+) where its buried deep in the rear head: Unplug the bullet connector at the end of the sensor and thread the wire through an appropriate size 3/8" deep socket and set the socket over the sensor. Then jam a large flathead diagonally into the 3/8" square and use pliars or vice grips to apply torque to the screwdriver. There should be clearance between the flathead blade and the socket to keep from pinching the wire. No need to buy the special tool. |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Monday, March 31, 2003 - 03:54 pm: |
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Not a tip of Earth shattering proportions, but I finally figured out that a deep well socket slipped over the short end of an Allen wrench gives you plenty of leverage for busting fasteners loose without gouging your mitts. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 09:08 am: |
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How to have a happy 2000 M2 Make sure your front exhaust hanger is the newer (Y) type, that will save you some major grief. When installing the exhaust system, gradually tighten all the individual fasteners, wiggling things often to let everything "settle in". This also relocates the voltage regulator, make sure it has a really good ground (shiney metal, maybe an additional grounding strap). Rocker boxes generally go about 3000 (rear) and 7500 (front) miles. The new metal lower gaskets seem to solve the problem. Either have the parts on hand and wait for it, or take a couple afternoons and replace them. Some eat speedo sensors, if yours is one of them we have a filter to protect it, but don't putz with it until the first one blows. Most don't, but the ones that do are serial sensor killers (which gets expensive fast). Be real careful about belt tension, err to the side of a little loose. At the next convenient time (no hurry unless shifting gets really hard all at once) pull the primary cover and install a new primary chain tensioner (updated part). Cheap parts, easy job, and you get to see some cool internal parts. The YoDude flytrap makes a nice little storage area, they were selling on ebay, not sure if they are still there. Run any good 20w50 full synthetic. If anyone has any doubts about this anymore, look at some of the great data being posted by Notsip about temperatures, look up the breakdown temperature of non-synthetic, and do the math. You can use the big ford oil filter, it will increase your oil system capacity by close to a quart. Make sure it is safety wired (I used a big hose clamp and a cable tie) so it can't unthread... otherwise, it might make a huge mess while riding (so I've seen ^h^h^h^h heard ) There was a one week batch made that had a bad... sprocket nut or something... anybody remember which? I posted about it in the archives ages ago. The actual number of effected bikes is small, but it can be a pretty expensive failure. Buell customer service can tell you if you are effected based on your VIN. As you approach 15k miles, or any time you will be replacing rocker box gaskets anyway, I would check the oil pump drive gear (drop the oil pump and look up in the hole). Plenty of before and after pictures in the knowledge vault. When removing / installing the derby cover (covers the clutch), gradually turn the four bolts one at a time. If you remove / tighten just one, the cover cocks at a funny angle and can freeze the screw, and those little torx heads strip with a sideways glance. I replaced mine with off the shelf Harley chromed allen head screws. The brake calipers will come off the front wheel when the pads are removed, in spite of appearences to the contrary. Don't force it. The parts book and service manual diagrams for the front wheel axle/spacers are wrong, don't panic when you find this. Napolean bar end mirrors work and look great. The supertrapp is expensive, but (IMHO) worth it. I resisted for the longest time, and finally put one on. Shoulda done it from day one. The forcewinder intake makes a nice intake, but make sure the carb vent is a big bowl and not just a little slit (like many of the newer ones). Just hit it with a dremel tool if you get a slit one. Your carb jet is probably already on the rich side, a 195 or a 200, which is fine as it gives you a thermal margin, but if you can get to a dyno there is probably a little more power in there. The low speed jet should be replaced with a 45, and the fuel air mixture screw should be turned out 2.5 turns or so. See the knowledge vault for details, and be very careful not to have any intake leaks on reassembly (which is easy to do), you could hole a piston or burn a valve. Thats all(?) I could think of for now. Anyone else want to chime in? |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 11:42 am: |
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I think in your first paragraph, you meant front exhaust hanger, not header? I never had mine updated, but haven't had a problem (yet). I've got the problematic V&H too (no problems yet - 18,000 miles). If the shock hasn't blown on your 2000 M2, I'd keep a close eye on it. The updated shock with the reservoir is a big improvement. A bargain at $100, but I would have preferred a free one. Put some duct tape on the wheel before you take the caliper off. It keeps the wheel from getting scratched while you struggle with the caliper. This is a good idea for the frame rails around the carb too. Disable the kickstand switch before it leaves you stranded or at least know the symptoms when it goes bad (bike runs fine until you let the clutch out). Cut the wires going to the switch and splice them together (I think someone sells a plug-in that does this). If not for the BadWeb and my trusty pocket knife, that one would have left me on the side of the road. |
H_Man
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 12:57 pm: |
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Reep, You da MAN! Thanks for the summary on the care and feeding of our beloved M2s. One thing though, in the first paragraph you wrote, "...front exhaust header is the newer type...." Did you mean front exhaust (muffler) hanger? If there is a newer header, then pls tell me more (or direct me to the posts about it), I missed it along the way. Oh yeah, I love the pic with your profile. H-man |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, April 04, 2003 - 02:45 pm: |
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Thanks everyone, it was "hanger" not "header". Sorry about the confusion, I fixed it in the above post. |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 02:08 pm: |
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Shop Vise?? I'm looking for a shop vise for home use. While I'd love to get a top-of-the-line Wilton, price gets in the way I'd want a 5 - 5 1/2" jaw width size and have been looking at these: Wilton Utility Wilton Medium duty Columbian Workshop vise The Columbian (on the catalog page, which can be downloaded) mentions cold rolled screw, spring loaded for "instant action" etc. Any advice regarding brand, size, other capabilities?? Thanks Henrik |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 02:17 pm: |
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Brazing on SS exhaust header: I want to install an oxygen sensor bung in the collector on a Buell race header. Will brazing hold (shouldn't be much stress on the braze itself)? Will a regular propane kit like this generate enough heat for brazing, or will I need different fuel/bigger torch? There are several more options if you click the "view product in catalog" option toward the bottom of the page. What kind of wire/brazing rods should I use for this? Thanks Henrik |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 06:03 pm: |
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Henrik, Just my opinion, I'd take it to someone that knows how to TIG or MIG weld and have them do it. BTW, how hot do those exhaust temp(s) get anyway? I would think you’d spend more buying the stuff you need to braze it yourself than it would cost for someone to weld it up for you. Sorry, I can't tell you if the MAPP/Propane kits you found will work or not (I've never used them). I've only used oxygen/acetylene setup while brazing or gas welding. There's nothing wrong with brazing SS in the application you described. The best thing to do "if" you're going to braze it is go to a welding supply house and see what "they" suggest for a filler rod. I've used a filler rod called Easy-Flo on SS. It's a 45% silver alloy filler rod and makes a good silver brazed joint. The 45% filler rod melts at 1120 deg. and flows at 1140 deg. If you insist on brazing the puppy yourself, let me know and I'll give you a few "critical" brazing tips. S'later, -JW:> |
Peter
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 07:56 pm: |
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Henrik, If you are going to be brazing that on near the head, I'd be wondering how hot the pipe gets first. I've seen my BMW headers glow red when I've warmed it up in the early morning. Same colour red as I see when I'm brazing...... Follow Jim's advise and get someone to MIG or TIG it. PPiA |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 10:38 pm: |
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Jim, Peter: I'd planned to put the bung in the collector. I'm going to put one on the SV collector as well. No idea what temperatures I'll see down there. Blake, care to point your IR temp gauge in that direction? I really would prefer brazing - I haven't found a decent welder anywhere near me. Lots of places, and happy to take my $$, but the work has been crappy looking at best. So, what brazing advice can you give me Jim? Henrik |
Henrik
| Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2003 - 10:42 pm: |
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Btw. I know of a few SV racers, that have brazed bungs into the collector pipe. Haven't heard anyone mention them falling out Any vise suggestions?? Henrik (realizing that a Buell is an entirely different beast) |
Peter
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 03:53 am: |
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Henrik, I've brazed brackets for the front hanger, and on the muffler without problems. I was going to braze the O2 bung on near the head as well, until I saw the colour of the pipes that dark morning... I think you'd be safe enough on the collector. The vises we always used in Oz were Dawn. No idea about the ones you posted. Pete |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 09:27 am: |
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Henrik, did somebody actually charge you for that piece of work? It looks like big mice have been chewing on it! r-t |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 09:43 am: |
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Henrik on the vise thing, if you've got a little more time than money, try a flea market . . . big old heavy vises (the best kind, I think) are available CHEAP! if you insists (for whatever reason) on buying new, generally, heavier is better (again, IMHO) . . . . unless it's for a mill or something similar, this piece of equipment is likely not going to be a precision piece (or reamin that way for long), and the weight will help while you're wailing on whatever you've gripped with it . . . . . . best thing you can do for your vise is lube the screw once a decade, and make some brass/aluminum jaw liners for it, so the teeth on the jaw faces won't mar the surface of the wrok piece . .. . (leather works well too) oh, yeah, if, all things being equal, you wind up with a choice, get teh vise with the pipe grabber thingie (two v-shaped jobbies, generally right under the jaw faces) . . . .ya never know when you'll want to bang on something round . . . . . . after all is said and done, its just a vise . . . . concentrate on finding a good welder (sheesh, even I can do better than that!) |
Henrik
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:02 pm: |
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A picture is worth 1000 words You probably all thought I was kidding, claiming to have trouble finding a welder ... Well, this guy is one of the better ones I've found. And yes, he did charge me. The pictures show some reinforcements he welded onto a Buell race header hanger bracket. In other words, he started out with a nice new piece which now looks like that Both welder and vise issues are compounded by not having a car to get me and bigger items around. It's all got to be local or shipped in. But thanks for the advice everyone. I appreciate you taking the time. Henrik |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:16 pm: |
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Henrik, looking at that butchered bracket again, I think if it were mine, I'd smooth it off using JB Weld for filler, then hand-file it to shape and paint it. Of course, for the filing you need a vise...we both know a guy in NYC with a pickup truck and lots of time on his hands--I'm sure he'll help you out...he'll probably even run the siren and lights for you! r-t |
Court
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:31 pm: |
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Bomber: Do NOT get me started on vices......you've heard my recent vice story...me thinks. |
Josh
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:38 pm: |
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Henrik, That looks much better than the job Hal's did for me on the same thing. Course mine also wouldn't mount up afterwards (they told me not to worry - you don't really need to support the exhaust up front anyway). Josh |
Jim_Witt
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:41 pm: |
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Actually the weld looks pretty good to me (if it’s the horizontal fillet weld in the middle picture). Not knowing the shape of the bracket before he got a hold of it makes it hard to visualize what he had to work with. It looks like he got a little carried away with the grinder (smile). |
Court
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 01:51 pm: |
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Jim: The "cosmetics" and the "integrity" of the weld are how related? It occurs to me, and I could tell you everything I know about welding with a Marker Marker on the inside of a match pack, that "looks may not be everything". I spent years with my employees (all certividuals) welding Aluminum Pipe Bus in powerplants and they all looked like art. But then again, we had Corona considerations at operating voltages of 345kV and above. Court |
Road_Thing
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 02:03 pm: |
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I find that the tops blow off my Coronas if I run my refrigerator on anything higher than 120 VAC... Is that the same problem you had? r-t |
Court
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 02:20 pm: |
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Kinda..... I suggested to the spousal unit that I was curious about swapping a trading her, at 40, in for "two twentys". She promptly informed me..."you ain't wired for 2-20". That what you had in mind? P.S. - Mr. Thing, I don't need to tell you that I'm in a might nasty disposition of late and am tetering on annointing you "Badwebber most likely to be suspected of a Sodamn Insane double". Don't push me boy..... |
Josh
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 02:24 pm: |
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220 ... 221 whatever it takes |
Bomber
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 02:47 pm: |
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Court . . .at the trisk of earning your emnity, I don't think I'm old enough to hear about your vices tell thing, and then he'll tell me |
Court
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2003 - 02:58 pm: |
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Damint...now you HAVE done it. I am reliving moments in Dallas with buckets of Corona and Tex-Mex that ran off the side of the plate and Thursday night dancin' at Billy Bob's place in Fut Wuth. Here....welcome to Spring in NYC. Vick goes and buys a new convertible Saturday. I hold her responsible. |
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