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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through October 16, 2009 » Is there a regulator on 1125R that causes bike to lose power in 3rd gear? « Previous Next »

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Txfuzz
Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 07:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I heard about something that affects power in 3rd gear, anyone know which part it is?
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Carbonbigfoot
Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 07:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The solenoid. Do a search under the word solenoid and a ton of stuff should come up. Remove it, and make it begone.\

R
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Badlionsfan
Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There's gotta be a way we can get the 'noid removal info as a sticky or up above here with the technical info.
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Vtwinbuell
Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2009 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here you go

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 08:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Another option for this problem if you decide you don't want to perform a 'noidectomy:

Don't lug your motor. If you go WOT in 3rd and you are already above about 5500 RPM, the 'noid won't engage.
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Xl1200r
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right, because 5,000 rpm is lugging the motor something awful.

Just take it out - super easy, only costs $7 or so with the Buell part, and the peace of mind is priceless.
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At 5500, there's really little possibility of damage to the motor, for sure.

But, who do you think accelerates faster given the same starting speed? The rider with the bike in 2nd at just above 6k where the motor's torque is approaching peak and then shifts into 3rd at 10k, or the rider who goes WOT in 3rd and holds it?

For what it's worth, both of my 1125r bikes are denoided, but still, there's significant argument for rider input and technique here. The rider went WOT for a reason... so why not use the rider inputs to result in the most advantageous WOT results?
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Jaimec
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exactly. 8,000 miles on my 1125R and the only time I experienced the drop in power was when I was deliberately acting like an arsehole.

I've decided to leave mine in. Every now and then I need the reminder. ; )
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 10:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jaime - take out the cable.
You'll get a reminder when the DTC sets
Safer than the bike going flat when you need flat-out.

Remember, 3rd gear, 4850 rpm AND WFO is a BAD combo.
Don't try to pass when in that condition.

Z
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I ride down a streach of road every day that has those large speed humps... the ones that are like 3 feet across. I like to cruise along in 3rd and when I hit the hump gas it and kinda loft the front wheel for 10 feet or so but that noid hits 50% of the time and the motor cuts out.... its pretty scary that they would have that feature! I have a resistor ordered and will remove the noid when it come in. What is the reason for this feature/solenoid any way?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 10:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EPA noise regs.
Read your frame tag if you have a 49 state model.

Z
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Bicycle_man
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 10:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It happens to me every time I hit an entrance ramp to a highway. I just ordered the resistor and will pull my "noid" off next Wed.. I mentioned the issue to my dealer...they had not heard of it? Strange, since almost all of you have experienced the "lag".
It could be dangerous on the road or track.
C
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Down shift and not only will the problem go away, but your bike will accelerate faster.

One of many upsides to removing the 'noid is the throttle action is so much lighter! It makes a big difference.
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Bicycle_man
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jdugger
True! It doesn't happen ALL the time....only when merging surrounded by minivans...
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Jaimec
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've merged aggressively numerous times without that thing kicking in, even in third gear (though most of the time if I really need the acceleration I downshift to second).

I guess I'm way too used to motorcycles that DON'T have that kind of acceleration to begin with, so I've grown used to gradually accelerating and smoothly merging into a proper gap in traffic. Not unlike the way I drive my car, actually.

In fact, I can't think of a single time that I've needed WFO on a public road. The bike responds perfectly well to a smooth, steady roll-on.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Most likely you'll never see it on the track since "smooth" is best.
If you have the noid and it's connected, just stay out of it's region.
It is a VERY specific, small rpm range and ONLY in 3rd gear.

That is knowledge I'd rather not HAVE to think about tho, my noid is de-cabled.
I'm gonna find 3 Ohms and terminate the lead today.
Loretta's gonna lose a pound or two.

Z
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Fresnobuell
Posted on Friday, October 02, 2009 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Most likely you'll never see it on the track since "smooth" is best.

Smooth is best on the track, I agree, however if you are riding even moderately aggressively (street or track) you will find yourself jumping over the danger zone when going from 2nd gear to 3rd gear.
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Jdugger
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> you will find yourself jumping over the danger zone when going from 2nd gear to 3rd gear

You shouldn't. There's absolutely no reason you should be shifting out of 2nd gear at an RPM putting the bike into the "danger zone" in 3rd. The difference between 2nd and 3rd gear is around 1000 RPM IIRC.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been keeping the bike between 3500 and 5500 rpms and - knock on wood - have yet to experience this - I have the latest flash, and I have been at 4000 rpms many times now and nothing - will let you know, perhaps the latest flash compensates for it? Don't know, but so far just smooth sailing.
EZ
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Ccryder
Posted on Sunday, October 04, 2009 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ:
It does take a special touch (Both Zac and I seemed to be touched anyway) to get it pull the butterflies closed. IMHO, you should try and get it to happen so you are experienced and it won't be a hazard when it surprises you.

After 28,000+ miles on the 2 lane TN roads that I ride everyday, gets me in the range often. 3-5 times a week I'll get the CEL and that tells me I would have energized the solenoid.

I just grin at the light and ride away.

Later
Neil S.
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Txfuzz
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the input guys, i just de-noided mine...took it out for a ride and could feel the difference, much better throttle response!! very pleased.
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 01:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm riding up to the dealer to pick my resistor up in the morning!! It took them almost 2 weeks to get it in...

TX did you lock the linkage together with a zip tie or safety wire?
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Bicycle_man
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Took mine apart yesterday and riding my Heritage Softail to pick up the resistor today....in the rain...S L O W L Y.

Pretty simple, THANKS Puzzled!! Used Ziptie (Black) Added the plate relocator and stiffened up my suspension quite a bit. Can't wait to try it out....rain go away.
C
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Txfuzz
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 11:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Xtreme,

I didn't lock the linkage with Ziptie, I felt it wasn't locked together to begin with and the noid wasn't acting to lock or keep them together to begin with...so why add a piece of plastic that can break and get into stuff??
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just thought you must have locked them to be able to feel a difference in throttle response... From what I read removing the noid should not effect anything other than it not slamming the throttle shut in that "special spot"
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Ccryder
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 04:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TxFuzz:
The idea is they CAN act independently and that can cause some issues. Nothing major but enough that when they are locked together you usually will notice the change.

Disconnecting the solenoid will make the throttle easier since the the solenoid and it's cable/ linkages are out of the system.
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Jaimec
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ: You really have to be pretty ham-fisted (in my experience) to see this happen. In over 8,000 miles it's happened to me exactly ONCE when my buddy on his CBR decided to whack open his throttle and launch himself down an entrance ramp.

Not to be out done, I whacked my throttle wide open too. I started to accelerate pretty damned briskly and then WHOMP! You'll know when it happens.

I accelerate pretty aggressively in third gear all the time and I'd never experienced this phenomenon. Even when merging with traffic and attempting to outpace cars into a gap it has NEVER happened except for that one time.

How often you find yourself just whomping the throttle wide open on public streets will determine how badly you need the fix. Me, I don't equate WFO with responsible riding and as I've stated before I find the brakes and handlebars far more effective means of avoiding accidents than the throttle. Of course, using that stuff inside my helmet works best of all...
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Zac4mac
Posted on Saturday, October 10, 2009 - 09:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By removing the link-cable from the 'noid to the throttle, you remove a significant spring-force. The throttle is "lighter".

Tying the throttle plates together keeps the plates from SLIGHTLY different positions that can be mis-interpreted as cylinder-balance issues. The bike runs smoother.

Two different issues, addressed with one action.
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 12:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I performed the de-noid mod tonight. snapped a few pics for those interested:
the resistor:


resistance of resistor:

solenoid:

unplug solenoid and install resistor:

remove solenoid and trim bracket, you need the part of the bracket that supports the air box:

re-install the piece that you trimmed off the bracket:


zip tie the floating linkage to the main linkage:

The spring is pretty stiff so I doubt it could move but just in case!
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Dipstick
Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 03:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Safety wire those throttle linkages even though they are spring loaded to the open position after the noid and cable are removed. They can "flutter" under agressive riding without being safetied. As they are under and outside the air box there is no way they can be sucked in the engine if they come loose. A proper safety wire dosen't come loose anyway. The throttle plate screws on an aircraft carb. are safety wired IN THE INTAKE VENTURI and they wouldn't do that if there was any danger of them comming loose.

Be proactive, remove that noid before it has a chance to kick in on you, possibly at a bad time.
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Redscuell
Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 01:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Regarding the 'noid, I'm about to reach 20,000 km in less than a year of riding my 09 here in Oz, and I haven't had an 'event' yet.

I did disconnect the 'noid early on, based on what I'd read here; but reconnected it around 7,000 km. No difference either way could be detected.

I know mine's an export; but since the 'noid was factory installed, and my firmware started with -11Z and then was updated to -12Z at about 12,000 km, and now remapped in fuel only, I can't think how my 09 'noid could be different to USA versions.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2009 - 05:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Red - it's possible that your ECM is NOT programmed to set the noid.
Just like ours here pay no attention to the missing side-stand switch.

US noids kick in when in 3rd gear at 4850 rpm and a quick snap to WFO.
She falls flat on her face.

Z
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