| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
Does anyone know of a place that can do black powder coat in a completely non glossy (matte) finish? | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
any powdercoat shop can. | ||
| Greg_e |
I found this place with a google search http://www.johnsonspowdercoating.com/pc/index.htm I did send an email asking about getting some test pieces done. Figure the passenger pegs and heel kick plates are good enough for testing since they will probably never be on my bike again. (Message edited by Greg_E on October 04, 2009) | ||
| Hammer71 |
PM me I'll get you set up. | ||
| Yachius |
Learn to do it yourself, it's not that hard and the equipment will be less than the service if you're doing a lot of small pieces or a few big ones. I did my whole 07 XB9sx (all 3 pieces of plastic bodywork) in matte black last season and I just removed them to redo them in something brighter. They're sitting on my kitchen table waiting to be stripped. Any solid color is dead easy. Only need a pro when it comes to artwork or blended colors. | ||
| Greg_e |
Don't you need a large oven to do these? Really want to do the entire frame as well as all the little parts. Just realized that the place above hasn't gotten back to me about the email I sent, I was going to send off the passenger heel plates to see how I liked it. If I don't like it then I'll do conventional paint in matte finish. Need to look up some local places too, must be someone in town that can do the work if it is that easy. | ||
| Yachius |
You can use an infrared heat lamp or on more durable metal parts you can even use a flame. The powder you use will have a temp range that it cures in so heat lamps are usually a good way to go because they are easily temp controlled. For small parts a conventional oven will do. I've never used powder that had to go over 400 degrees farenheit. Basically, you're spraying electrostatically charged paint particles so that they stick to the material you're painting then you heat the powder so it melts without running (because the electrostatic charge prevents the paint from moving) and forms an even coat. The hard part is spraying evenly and the expensive part is the spray gun. If you want to do plastics you just need to lay down a metal based primer first. If you don't care about the passenger pegs and heel kick plates that's probably a good place to experiment. They'll be easy because they're small enough to just dump in your oven to cure. If you're planning to do a lot of powedercoating it's a skillset worth picking up and if you've ever painted with a spray gun or even with spraypaint the only new skill to pick up is the curing. I'm very much a DIY kind of guy but if I was going to do the entire frame I would send it out to be done. It would be difficult to manage the baking due to its size. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
http://www.grandstanddesigns.com/website/ Hey... look at that.... a BadWeb sponsor. and I bet they give a discount to Badweb members | ||
| Froggy |
I have seen Grand Stand's stuff in person, top notch, they can do both matte and glossy. | ||
| Greg_e |
I wonder how much GrandStand would charge to cold hard anodize the frame (normally results in a black color but without dies). Now that would be cool! I'll get in touch with them as I get closer. This will very likely be a multi year project due to the costs. Need fiberglass body pieces for good paint adhesion, and then start on the metal. But before I do that I want to put in a different EFI computer and get it running and tuned. | ||
| Bromanowski |
Greg- as long as you use an adhesion promoter there should be no issues with painting the stock plastics and you would save a pretty penny. Also you can tune the stock ECM with the ecmspy cable without having to dish out hundreds for a piggyback system. IMHO Reprogramming is the proper way to do it anyways. Piggybacks are just like a bandaid hence their name. | ||
| Greg_e |
Not putting in a supplemental system, going to switch it completely to a MicroSquirt system. The current ECU is decent, but lacking features like MAP or MAF to get a better reading on the real airflow through the engine. I may also want to run two wide band sensors to get accurate reading on the exhaust so that I can have maps for each cylinder. It is just a much more sophisticated system and something that I've wanted to play with for many years. Since this bike is already EFI, more than half of the work is already done and changing the computer will be a lot easier. I'll fiddle with ECMspy for a while, but eventually it will get changed to a MicroSquirt. I'll still probably go for the aftermarket fairings so that I don't wreck the stock plastic. That is if I can get my insurance agent to give me a decent quote, getting more than $100 off from the online quotes so I don't know what the hell they are doing, even quoted the same company (Progressive) that they used and it is nearly $100 different. |
