| Author | Message | ||
     Deanald2pt0 |
I have an X1W and suspect I have a "warped" front rotor. However, I've been doing my research and trying to make sure that is actually the problem because I don't want to spend any money I don't need to. I've read a lot of people suggest using the Lyndall Gold pads and that switching to these has taken away any pulsing feeling people are getting. Obviously I am noticing the pulse when using the front brake. Pretty much what everyone else said before. I realize I am going to get some vibrations while braking as the RPMs of the engine are slowing. So I tried riding and braking will maintain a constant engine RPM. I noticed that I still get a pulse in the brakes. I had a set of new OEM pads laying around so I put those on, which didn't seem to affect how the bike felt at all. still pulsing. There doesn't seem to be any play in the head bearing or anything like that, I'm getting no wobble when riding at high speeds. There are NO obvious black marks on the rotor from glazing. I did use a sharpie to mark several lines on the rotor to see if there was any funny wear patterns. What I noticed is that the outside seemed to wear consistently, while the inside had a 1/4 inch band that that wrapped around between 2 of the vent slots. What do you guys think, give the Lyndall pads a try before investing in a new rotor? Would have to buy new pads anyway, if I have to buy a new rotor, just figuring I'd save a little bit of money only buy one set of pads, on the other hand if that set fixes the problem... | ||
| Sloppy |
Either the rotor is warpped, or more likely, it is just worn. Since the outer edge of the rotor has a higher velocity it generates more heat and wear than the inside. I have 35k miles on mine and it is way past due for a new rotor. New pads may "hide" the problem initially, but once the pads conform to the shape of the disk, it will thump again. Of course if you really want to know rather than just hearing opinions - measure the rotor yourself! Go to the auto or hardware store and support your local economy. Lyndall Golds actually put wear on my rotor so I personally don't recommend them. Instead go with organic pads for street use. | ||
| Jramsey |
If the lever pulses the rotors toast, if your feeling it in the front end a set of Lyndall's might fix it, they did on my X1, either way a new set of pads are in order. BTW a cheap dial indicator and base to check the rotor cost less than a set of brake pads. (Message edited by Jramsey on September 23, 2009) | ||
| Preybird1 |
I would say rotor also. Mine is terrible and i have been avoiding buying one also. I actually took the rotor off and put it on a brake lathe and (Tried) to machine it......Bad idea wrong kind of metal on the oem rotor and it just peeled out in long spiral shavings. Also i buffed the rotor with a rotary air tool. The rotor did feel better for about 3 weeks. But now it is just awful and i am forced to replace it. | ||
| Deanald2pt0 |
UPDATE: Lifted the front end of my X1W off the ground tonight. Spun the wheel and noticed a dragging noise that wasn't consistent, plus it would only make one or 2 revolutions before stopping. Pulled the brake pads out, and spun the wheel again. Every thing was nice and smooth. Took a Sharpy and using the caliper to steady it, I started making concentric marks on the rotor. What I found was that it consistently made marks in 2 high spots located about 240 degrees apart (2/3). To me it sounds like it is new rotor time. What do you guys think, do you agree? the next question is what rotor pad combination to get? | ||
| Oldog |
the rotor floats you sure about the centering? | ||
| Guell |
Mine was doing the same thing earlier this year, i swapped in some race pads, a ebc race rotor and a stainless brake line and havnt looked back. | ||
| Deanald2pt0 |
"the rotor floats you sure about the centering?" The rotor doesn't seem to be floating anymore, there is absolutely no play in it at all. "Mine was doing the same thing earlier this year, i swapped in some race pads, a ebc race rotor and a stainless brake line and havnt looked back." Which pads did you use, I'm having the debate buy an EBC rotor because they are suppose to be good (plus the price is better). I just wasn't sure what type of pads would be best with that rotor. If I wait till this weekend my dealer is having a sale and I can get 15 or 20% off the price of an OEM rotor, so that would make it closer to the price of the EBC. But it really comes down to which pads work best with which rotor, or could I get by for a little while with the OEM pads I just put on, since they have less than 75 miles on them. | ||
| Ducxl |
I'm wondering WHEN was the last time you bled the old fluid out and replaced it with NEW fluid? I tend to agree with the bad rotor tho | ||
| Preybird1 |
I was going to buy an EBC until i saw the word RUST! I will buy the more expensive rotor! | ||
| Sloppy |
It sounds like you are over complicating the issue here... It really doesn't matter which rotor you get as long as it's a name brand (OEM, Braking, EBC, etc). Pads are a personal decision. YOU decide which one works best for you. For street use organics; for track use sintered. Pads are so cheap and easy to change that you can buy a couple of different pads over a few years to figure out which one you like. I like EBC & DP. Like Duc said - when was the last time you changed out your brake fluid. Annually is a good goal. | ||
| Blks1l |
Some of the more expensive rotors are the ones that rust, I have the Braketech/Ferodo, and love it. | ||
| Nukeblue |
the lyndals are the best street pads out there. my opinion. ebc HH for the track. the lyndals smoothed out the rotors on my x1 and xb9r. woo hoo no more vibration! and totally predictable feel | ||
| Limitedx1 |
went with a braking scalloped front rotor and ebc double h pads, works flawless!!! | ||
| Ducxl |
i've got a set of these Braketech Axis Ceramic rotors on another of my bikes'. And they don't rust either.Too bad they're $1050. each. My '99 X1 has had the updated stock front rotor for about 6 years now and has been fine. Some brake fluids can accumulate moisture and under braking it can Boil causing the same pulsing effect.I bleed all of my bikes' brakes with new fluid AT LEAST once a year.Makes good practice | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Make sure the "floaty-springy-buttons" aren't full of road crap. Zap them with brake cleaner (mind the painted rim!) and wiggle them around. I'm not saying this is the most likely solution. It is however the cheapest  What if it works, right? | ||
| Lemonchili_x1 |
Just my 2c if you do update rotors - I got a Ferodo and they do rust a little, but to me that's kinda cool, reminds me of old Guzzi's  I tried the Lyndall Gold's with the Ferodo rotor and didn't like them purely because they took a little while to heat up, and cooled back down very quickly, around town. Once warm the braking power seemed fine. I tried EBC HH's, which were ok (but very good on the OEM rotor). I now have Ferodo Sintergrip ST pads and they suit the rotor very well. I have always preferred sintered to organic pads though, I like the initial bite. (I'd still like stronger brakes though...) | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
I started using lyndall gold pads on my stock rotor. For the first time, I don't feel any pulsing. I've not been blown away by the braking feel they offer, but it's as good as the stock pads and that's all I need for street riding. |
