| Author | Message | ||
     Anakist |
I am taking them off to get kickers welded onto the end of the tips, then get it all HPC coated. How the hell do I get to the back bolts? Do I just take the rear shock off and go in through there, or is there an easier way? Help please! James | ||
| Torquaholic |
Don't know if you have a service manual, but the SOP states to rotate the engine forward to access the rear flange bolts. I haven't done it (yet), and I'm not sure if you can jimmy-rig up a tool to allow access to the rear set without rotating the engine, but I've read that the entire process is a PITA. I suggest getting a service manual for directions. --Good luck! hope it works out.  | ||
| Ccryder |
I have read here on BWB that it can be done w/o engine rotation. That being said, it is a PITA. IIRC one of the hardest things was the rear O2 sensor or it's plug. After that it was a case of holding your mouth just right and standing on one foot. Do a search on the 1125 thread and you should be able to find it. | ||
| Ccryder |
James: Your in luck today that I'm feeling helpful: Finally got them installed. Had to wait till today for my neighbor to bring his welder home to make the special tool. The special tool consists of a 10mm 1/4 drive socket welded to a piece of metal. Had to take off or loosen the following: Seats, Rear plastic, shock, right heel guard, rear brake master cylinder (behind heel guard), plastic piece above heel guard, Sprocket cover. Basically remove both shock bolts so you can move it out of the way. The 2 top nuts you will need the "special tool" the bottom 2 you should be able to get off with a combination wrench. Oh and the reason for the heel guard, brake cylinder and almost forgot there is a plastic piece under the right hand side of the end of the frame. It is a wire run shield. The O2 sensor wire runs through it. You will have to pull the wire back from above if you did like me and use a box end wrench on it. The O2 sensors need to be removed before the header is removed. Once the rear header has the O2 sensor removed and the 4 header nuts removed you will need to play with rotating the pipe to get it out. Takes some practice and patience. I did not remove the exhaust. The front header of course is a breeze. Just thank Krassh A.K.A. Ken Lipp for the write up and me for the patience to find it. Neil S. | ||
| Anakist |
Thanks for that Neil. I decided to just take it to the dealer and have them rotate the engine and give me the rear header. Then I will give them the newly HPC'd rear header and they will put it on and give the bike back. Pushing the bike the mile or so to the dealer sucked pretty hard though. James | ||
| Ccryder |
FWIW: American Sport Bike has a real nice swap out program. Give Al and Joanne a call. | ||
| S1125r |
+1 to Ccyrder's post about the pipe exchange from American Sport Bike. Great people to do business with. | ||
| Krassh |
Yep I used Al for my Pipe swap. Thanks for digging that post up Neil. After reading the OP post I was thinking man I do not remember all the steps and did not feel like doing a search. | ||
| No_rice |
so did i understand what you said right? your just welding turnouts/downs onto the endes of the head pipes and going to run it that way? | ||
| Anakist |
Good grief no. Getting kickers on the end of the muffler, not the headers. Neil, that is cool re: asb, but I live in australia. They could do the actual swap for free and I think postage would end up being more than I am paying over here. Thanks. James | ||
| Ccryder |
Silly Neil thinking "locally" vs globally. |
