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Chadhargis
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 11:18 am: | 
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It also might be a good idea to unhook the battery overnight and let the ECU reset. |
Dentguy
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 01:47 pm: |
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do u rev the bike when sitting still? If so, that could be the cause of a bad spark plug.
Why is that? |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 02:31 pm: |
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Calling someone tonight about the issue to see if I can get it resolved. Took it out at lunch and it is worse than ever. Discouraging to say the least.
One nice thing about it, I love to clean on it, wash it, and stare at it in the confines of the garage. Just can't hardly ride it, lol. |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 03:37 pm: |
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So in the case the plugs are fouled for some odd reason, how hard is it to change them. The harley was as easy as popping off the wire and putting in the plug, however something tells me this is going to be much much more difficult. |
P_squared
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 03:57 pm: |
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If fouled plugs are suspected, a spark plug clean can be initiated manually. Repeat the following sequence three times:
1. Roll and hold the throttle wide open
2. Turn the ignition to ON
3. Wait three seconds
4. Release the throttle grip
5. Turn the ignition to OFF
Trying to pull them & clean them manually is a bit "involved" due to the packaging. |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:02 pm: |
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wow, learn something new everyday on here. Thanks P_squared, you da man! |
Mikeminyard
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:23 pm: |
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Is that with the key on or off? |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:25 pm: |
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P_squared,
Is there any confirmation that this procedure was successful? Does the bike display a code, or flash the CEL or anything to let you know it took?
ac |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:27 pm: |
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obviously off, it says throttle open, turn key on.
I just did it and only thing I noticed is the fuel pump did not cycle as usual the next time you turn key on. |
Badlionsfan
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:29 pm: |
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Dent, for the same reason sometimes the xb's will backfire thru the air box if you sit and rev the bike-- you're dumping a bunch of fuel into the cylinder for no reason. That whole sit and rev at a stop light is a pure waste of fuel on a fuel injected bike, a carry over from the old Harleys that didn't have accelerator pumps in the carbs. Add a high lift and duration cam with a real low idle, yeah that may need a few twists to keep running at a light. Any production fuel injected motorcycle, not needed, and as I said, can actually be harmful. |
P_squared
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 04:50 pm: |
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There's no CEL, flashing light(s), code displayed, etc. when you do that procedure.
I had it written down in my "1125R notes" as handy info since the 1st time most folks will even see both plugs is at the 12,400 mile service when they're replaced (when the engine is rotated to also check the valves).
I've used it twice I think. |
Dentguy
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 08:43 pm: |
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Badlionsfan,
I'm with you about the whole rev it up at a light, waste of fuel thing, but just revving it up while sitting isn't going to foul a plug unless it has a problem. |
T_man
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 08:56 pm: |
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Ok, fellas this craziness has got to stop... It IS simply the lean FUELING. End of story. Get the O-S-B $80 tuner off Ebay -globally richen your map about 12% higher than its learned values (ex. If its at 100 - then set at 112) Disable the 02 sensors. Done.
Your bike won't surge anymore, it will run cooler and with less noise coming from the engine. You can change many more variables if the mood takes you - but those two simple changes should help immensely for the problems your currently experiencing. No disrespect to all those trying to diagnose his problem, but enough is enough - time to actually FIX his problem.
(Message edited by T_Man on September 15, 2009) |
Avc8130
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 09:06 pm: |
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T_Man,
I am pretty sure you can do that in the other ECM programming software that has been around a while. You should be able to lock AFVs at 112 and disable the O2s if that suits your fancy. I think the ebay thingie is only for editing fuel/timing maps cell by cell. No personal experience, this is jut what I think I gather.
ac |
Chadhargis
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 15, 2009 - 11:14 pm: |
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You should be able to program it so that the O2 sensors don't have to be disabled. They can be set to maintain a specified level of O2 in the exhaust.
A static FI map is not optimal as when you change altitude, your FI won't adjust. |
Ridenusa4l
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 12:35 am: |
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Chad
I believe thats what the barometer is for???
Others will chime in its been discussed lol..
Jake |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 08:18 am: |
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Guys, is the ECM port under the left side radiator cover stuffed into the engine bay? If so I have a cable that I used on my Harley's, it fit in there perfectly last night. |
Badlionsfan
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 08:18 am: |
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Tman, he said the problem is getting worse. Fueling doesn't get worse. |
T_man
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 10:05 am: |
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Well lets see what happens when he makes the changes I described above. If I wasn't 99.9% certain I could remedy his problem, I wouldn't have made that post. Honestly; I just want to see this dude happy with his bike - its not about anyone of us being right or wrong! |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:27 am: |
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My F and R AFV's when I went to lunch yesterday were up around 115 and 119 respectively
When I got home yesterday they were like 105 and 110 if I remember correctly. |
Metalrabbit
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 11:49 am: |
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Are you running high octane gas in your R?
Wouldn't it be the joke of the year to find out your R is running exactly like its supposed to?
That poor damn engine has been tweaked and bent to conform to so many rules and regs that its constantly throwin a fit to get out an be itself. It would be great to be introduced to the actual Helicon engine for just once |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 16, 2009 - 12:49 pm: |
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Always run 93 octane Shell gasoline.
I hope it isn't running like it is supposed to... |
Oldog
| | Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 02:02 am: |
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Jason change Brands of gas for 2 or 3 tanks
BP / amico or - Gogas ( its good in my tuber )
things change for a reason Why is the question, Noted AFVs 115-119 dropped to 105 110 Why the sudden change? what has been altered?
Did I pick up that you have "de-noided" the bike?
foweled plugs cause a missfire [ failure to fire ] as the fowel is a short circuit of the spark gap to ground,
I would not install or change any thing
my bike has 1700~ mi on it yet no major issues
I know that you are upset but the real question is WHY is the bike runnung bad? |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 06:08 pm: |
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Oldog,
I have no idea why it is running like it is or why the AFV has changed so drastically. I have not touched it in any way except de-noiding it.
Honestly I am thrilled your bike is doing great, at least one is.
(Message edited by jpowell490 on September 17, 2009) |
Hellgate
| | Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 06:36 pm: |
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Well I've got new throttle bodies, fuel injectors and intake runners coming all under warranty. The mechanic deemed my 11 the worst he's ever ridden and said once he was through 2nd gear he knew it was bad. FINALLY, someone who has a clue and gets it. Hats off to Cowboy HD in Austin. Once the repair is complete I'll post up the results. I may not sell this thing afterall...TZ250 here we come!
(Message edited by Hellgate on September 17, 2009) |
Oldog
| | Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 10:56 pm: |
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Jason I wish I could help I have not recieved my FSM so I cant review the systems and make any intellegent suggestions, something is odd for the AFV to change like that
have you tried the plug clearing routiene?
When I flew light planes we could do a procedure to clean the plugs in the engine called a lean run the idea was that you leaned out the mixture and held a high power setting ( on the ground against the brakes )and this "should" clear the plugs for a mag check
I wonder if a brief blast in a lower gear of high power output could help with this, I can tell you that the machines systems do not seem to "like" blipping the throttle at a stop light, especialy when hot, or just after warm up, I have stalled the engine a couple of times,
I was told not to even touch the throttle untill the engine coolant was at or above about 160f I am doing that, ie start the machine and not touch the throttle till 160, I did once and the machines reactions were enough to get my attention. I do believe that certain "procedures" just like when I flew must be followed or concequences will be incurred, the turn signals (rear) while annoying are easy to fix, IMO if & when that happens I will call the dealer, and make an appointment to have them changed out, I will put my expectations on paper for the manager to understand, I plan on having the conversation with them on the clutch issue, the leak soon, with the intention of trying to be proactive, my approach will be that way,
known issues
charging system may be weak
rear turn signals
running
clutch mechanisim can fail and leaks.
motor heats frame and makes gas fumes
with low fuel or hard run (stop go) in town can cause boiling,
AFAIK the 5th gear mods are done.
My battery was replaced
I need to get stands and any special tools for the machine Tires will be needed early next year. |
Jpowell490
| | Posted on Thursday, September 17, 2009 - 11:04 pm: |
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Hey Oldog,
Yea I tried the plug clearing routine, didn't help. I never touch the throttle until it is warmed up fully. I learned the no "blip" pretty early on, like the first ride, lol. They don't like that at all, so that was an adjustment.
So are you having all these issues with your bike now that you listed? Didn't you say you had to drill out your gas cap at Bumpus? I know mine was an SOB to get off the first time, I thought they key would break trying to get it off.
Just real surprising for a bike 3 years in the making to have all these issues, you would think that would be a reasonable amount of time to find all this, but oh well.
Let me know if you are having problems as well, I sure hope not. |
Oldog
| | Posted on Friday, September 18, 2009 - 12:09 am: |
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no issues with the cap its a little stiff,
Jeremy, Chadd & Neil helped me get my GPS wired and set up
The bike has stalled a couple of times while riding,
It has gotten over 200F once or twice in traffic, it gets "warm" to the touch at the seat, frame area.
the gas has boiled in the frame, and dripped on the ground,
I over filled it several times lucky Bumpus rerouted the vent to the rear peg support so no paint damage.
the lights flicker some times so I will be checking voltages and for AC on the battery terminals
the battery has failed to start the motor and a jump was required.
the mirror stalks move back when riding rendering the mirrors usless,
the left mirror head is a little loose on the stem
the motor ran a little rough the other night
the tires are holding up ok for 1700 miles
the clutch cover hydraulic slave cylinder is not leaking
the signals still work
the weak battery last week regained some strength after a couple hours of local "vigourous" riding
I am going to remove the GPS harness for now, it needs to be fused and rerouted
I RTFM and reset the service counter
I have put the Odis up and cycled through it Impressive. ecm spy is not a prerequsite tool for ownership. { I still want to poke around in the on board systems =) }
the seat is hard as a rock and made my butt hurt bad going home.
at 52 and having a potgut, clipon style "bars" are going to motovate me to get to it and "find my feet"
I am paying attention to every thing
I expect some issues, as long as my local Buell dealer does not screw me ( not likely ) waranty should deal with most of the issues,
I read up and knew there were potential problems, I am used to the fact that NOW I know more about my X1 than the Techs at my local HD shop, thats ok they do little of my work, I have 2 Buells and they Both have a certain "Character" I am still getting to Know "the Two-Five"
I am a little apprehensive about valve adjustment time as that will be DIY
I was told to save my recipts and document things, I learned to maintain My X1, '25 is more complex but its a machine, if and when it is no longer fun I will part co with at least one of them, perhaps both
I hope that your local servicer can help with your problems on the sled..
from the hotel in ILL 'oldog
Didn't you say you had to drill out your gas cap at Bumpus?
No I had an issue with the lock on the X1 gas cap, I had some unwelcome news and was going to take 'Ol Blue (the X1) Up to Old maple hill road for a Knock down drag out FTW Brawl on the pavement with said weapon the cap lock failed at the gas station on the way out of town, (perhaps to my benefit) so back to my rented Bin (shop) to drill the @%$#@!$@%$23 locking gas cap lock out, I then proceeded to butcher the locking cam to get the cap to work ( not too good ) I went for a thrash at a local spot, and learned that there are places that you NEVER WANT GASOLINE, as the hacked up cap leaked,
I replaced the cap with a blast cap and no issues and no @#$%@#$!@%$56$^%$^# lock....
Lifes too short to sweat some things, If I have a job and some cash I can fix a vehicle or have it fixed.
(Message edited by oldog on September 18, 2009) |
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