| Author | Message | ||
     Wingnutcc |
my girlfriends '01 blast started acting up the other day. she started it, let it go through its warm up cycle and then tried to leave. when she gave it gas it died out. i have since checked/tested and ruled out: -bad fuel quality -tank vapor lock -kick stand/bas/clutch sensors -carb is clean ans is jetted and assembled properly -boot is clean and not leaking -static timing is properly set -TPS sensor is calibrated and functioning properly -auto enricher is brand new and working properly -coil and plug wire are within specified resistance there is no rhyme or reason to when it works or doesnt. what leads me to suspect a malfunctioning ign module is when i start the bike and let it idle with a test light attached, its clear to see the plug is firing intermittently. the led on the module always flashes regularly during the misfire and the rotor cup is not loose. i double checked the coil and plug wire and they are good so this must be the module correct?(or a loose wire) the TPS only tells the module WHEN to advance/retard and would not be able to STOP the module from firing right? also it does this with the tps unplugged so that would rule it out i think. thank you in advance to anyone with any input as a second problem, if it needs a module no one near me has one in stock. i am in boston and we were going to ride to the 1st annual brooklyn invitational bike show in NY saturday. if anyone has one or knows where i can get one i will GLADLY pay for the part and second day/next day shipping to get it here. | ||
| Fahren |
American Sport Bike? | ||
| Damnut |
Precision HD/Buell has one in stock, ask for Tripp. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - our vendors rock, and a lot of them will have a part in stock or help you find somebody who does have it in stock. EZ | ||
| Wingnutcc |
awesome! thanks for the lead damnut! unfortunately they're closed, but i'll call first thing tomorrow and have them hold it for me. i'll be sure to talk to tripp. he works in parts i presume? Ez you seem pretty knowledgeable when it comes to troubleshooting. does my reasoning and diagnosis sound logical? as a final test i wanted to test the signal wire(pink wire i believe)that goes from the module to the coil so that i could bypass the coil and directly test the module. does that wire ground to fire the coil like in a typical points ignition and if so is it safe(to the bike) to test it with a test light? thanks again everyone for the help. | ||
| Ezblast |
Always make sure the boot is new before serious diagnosis of a problem - 10 bucks is cheap. But all things considered which you have covered, and it being an early year Blast - it is probably the ignition. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Check with Ruel He has been known to fix those damn things, he lives in VA? I still have to send him a Laser | ||
| Damnut |
yes Tripp works in Parts. They are a sponsor and tell him you're on Badweb and you'll get a 10% discount. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not one of the usual bad ignition module scenarios, but it wouldnt be unheard of. If its driving you nuts, then often it is the module gremlin! Correct, the TPS wont cause this problem, but the TPS can cause the module to act up. Still unlikely, but great diagnosis unplugging it. Enrichener wont cause it either. I do have to ask if/how you bypassed the kickstand/BAS/clutch/neutral safety switches. What you describe is usually one of the four. While I'm not EZ, its unlikely that testing the module in any other way will yield much results (unless you had a complete running simulation tester). The best way is to pull the 'points'/timing cover and watch the LED for consistent flashing when it dies/wont start. Does it restart right away? No flash= no spark, then its on to checking for power. If it has a consistent flash, then its likely a coil/ wire/ spark plug problem. Did you check the coil wire/ spark plug terminal connections? The stock plug has a solid connection, many non stock plugs have a tip that screws on and often comes unscrewed. Ignition modules arent repairable. I asked Reuel. He hasnt a viable way to reseal them  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome Wingnutcc! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sorry, reread your post. If the LED is firing regularly and the spark plug is not, then its sounds like a coil/wire/ spark plug problem. The LED is a consistent flash and not a bright flash and several dimmer flashes? The coil power/'ground' wires should function just as in a points ignition. If the plug has more than 10,000 miles, then it definitely needs replacing, fwiw. | ||
| Damnut |
The module that I had in my bike blinked when turning the bike over but I had no spark. Did all the tests in the Service Manual sure enough the module was bad. Replace it today and it fired right up. Do you have the Service Manual? If not you can give me a call and I can go over everything with you. PM me for my number, I'm just south of Boston. | ||
| Ezblast |
Replace coil. EZ | ||
| Damnut |
riddle me this, why would you instruct someone to replace their coil and not give them some instruction as to how to tell if it is bad or not? I'd be pissed if someone instructed me to replace my coil and it didn't fix the problem. To test your coil: Remove coil and hold it in your hand. Have the plug wire on top and the coil connector plug on bottom facing you. There are 3 pins in the coil connector. With a multimeter measure the resistance between the 2 pins on the right. (Middle & right pin) You should measure between 0.4-0.6 Ohm. Then measure the resistance between the left pin and the spark plug connector. (remove spark plug wire first.) You should measure between 7.7K-9.4 Ohms. It may be a little tricky to get this reading. Measure the resistance of your spark plug wire, you should get between 2.3K-5.8K Ohms. If those reading are good then measure the voltage on your #10 connector. This is the connector that comes from the module and is located on the left side under the tank cover. Make sure the coil is connected as well as the #10 connector. You can pop off the back of the connector to get to the wires, it's just a rubber cover. Pin # 6 is the ground/black wire. You should see 12V between pin 4 (pink) & pin 6 (black). You should get 12V between pin 1 (W/Blk) and pin 6 (Blk). Measure between pin 5 (Lt Green/Gry) & pin 6 (black), you should get 0.6-0.8V. If all of this is checks out and your LED on the module is flashing when turning it over then, more than likely, your module is bad. If you don't get the voltage at one or more pins, let me know and I'll let you know what the manual says. Hope this helps. Good luck! | ||
| Damnut |
btw my bike is an 03 with just over 3300 miles on the clock. I wouldn't have thought that the module would have went but as they say, "shit happens" | ||
| Ezblast |
BTW - look further up the posts - that was covered. Sorry this thread keeps mixing up with the one under it. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 15, 2009) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the 2 threads are so closely related its difficult to distinguish between them. I should have merged them Another good reason to find a topic that closely matches your problem and post there rather than start a whole new repetitive discussion. | ||
| Truthnexile |
Hi guys, I'm trying to get my 2000 P3 (around 5K miles) up and going again. There's some great info on here. After putting the Blast back together after 3 months down, cranked but no fire. Further inspection showed me the wiring harness to the module 32687-00YA) got pinched in my wreck, which explained why the LED was dead. I figured I'd try splicing but it obviously got fried. I'm dirt poor at the moment and this thing shows to run $180. Any reccomendations for a less expensive fix? I was really hopin to get it going again quick as it's my everyday transport. Did the Rocker box gasket while it was down and just got a new rear tire. What's the difference b/w -00Y and -00YA on these modules. I just saw it on Chicago HD for $142+shipping, cheaper but dam... Thanks (Message edited by truthnexile on March 09, 2010) |
