| Author | Message | ||
     Staves |
So yesterday evening I was out for a ride and noticed the reading on my voltmeter starting to drop. I pull over, check the battery connections, tighten up the +, check the ground to the side of the battery tray (which I had just sanded and tightened) which appeared tight. The voltage continues to drop and the bike dies ('06 Uly, 32K miles). I get a jump and the same things happens. I wait four hours for a flatbed truck (thank you to AMA roadside assistance, it was free though). From reading of other's experiences, this sounds like a voltage regulator giving up the ghost. But I'd like to make sure before I order parts and repair. Does this sound like a voltage regulator, stator, or both? Anything else I should check? Thanks for your collective help. - Scott | ||
| Staves |
I should add that the battery is fairly new, purchased this March. | ||
| Dentguy |
See if these help. http://docs.google.com/view?docid=d4rbxwr_20dq5khf http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442491.html | ||
| Staves |
Oh, as I just realized, it may be the 77 connector. I'll check it now. If the connector is melted, is it easier to just eliminate the 77 connector by splicing the two wires together or should I get the connector service kit? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'd suggest splicing the wires. I installed a service kit on mine about a month ago; if you don't have a factory-type wire crimper it's almost impossible to get a good crimp on the wires which makes it very difficult to assemble the connectors. | ||
| Staves |
Thanks - anyone happen to know the approx. gauge of the wires I'll need to splice? I'm at work and can't look at the connector right now. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Get a priest. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I think the wires are 12 gauge. | ||
| Ronmold |
Cheap hardware store barrier strip, 5 min job  | ||
| Staves |
Well, the trouble was a melted/deformed 77 connector, almost identical to the photo floating around BadWeb. I eliminated the connector, spliced the wires and all seems good. Thanks for the help, Scott | ||
| Pso |
So does that mean when the connector goes bad the VR might still be good? I had my VR swapped out under warrenty and the Hardley wrench told me that I was running too much juice through the melted connector because of my driving lights (which I had not yet used other than tested for aiming). I then attmpted the kit for the VR and did not have the crimping tool so I just connected the wires together. does that mean that my new VR is safe? | ||
| Froggy |
Depends, can't say yes or no.
Actually, if you were running your lights, less power would be going to the VR, and the connector would of lasted longer 
I hope you got a Voltmeter on your bike! Anyway if the VR craps out, you will probably blow the headlight bulbs first. The VR regulates the voltage and shuts off any excess, so if you don't have a functioning VR you will overload everything else. | ||
| Kimberley |
Just be thankful the wiring isn't Lucas. | ||
| Prowler |
I've had 2 voltage regulator failures on previous bikes (sportsters) and when the regulator fails, no voltage from the stator gets to the bike's systems (or battery for that matter) and the battery slowly runs down until everything shuts off. There is NO OVERLOAD to any of the motorcycle's electrical systems. | ||
| Rotorhead |
It can fail both ways!!! 1st 2VR's were no output voltage. The last one failed the other way it allowed the high voltage of the stator to flow and blow my PIAA's and the HID were cycling on and off. It failed at night or I would have never known the symptoms. The battery was charging at around 18 volts at idle!! This all happened right before my stator went 2 weeks later. When the stator goes it doesn't always mean the VR goes with it. Mine was still good even after the stator failed. More than likely the stator was bad for a long time slowly killing VR's along the way. |
