| Author | Message | ||
     Ochoa0042 |
My battery is gatting charged up at autozone, once i get it back my bike is ready to run. I've put +2.5quarts of oil in the oil tank, and am using the same oil filter becasue it didnt have very many miles on it, and put a full quart in the primary. (all Amsoil).. is there a procedure to getting it started right from the dry state that its at right now? like idle it for a few minutes then turn it off. let it sit, then start it back up. and so on? and keep an eye out for the oil light ofcourse.. ~~thanks | ||
| Bishopjb1124 |
You will be over full on oil!!!!!!!! When you drained the oil there ws some oil remaining in the oil filter. You need to drain at least 1/4 quart out of the bike before you even start it. After that let the bike warm up and then check the oil level, and drain as needed. I used a syringe to pull oil out when I over filled it. Jimmy | ||
| Metalstorm |
A clean turkey baster works well too | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
i've filled up the bike to the book before.. replacing the oil filter half-filled and putting the remainder of the 2.5quarts in the oil tank.. during the standard oil change there is already stagnant oil in the engine that didnt get drained out (in the case and in the oil lines).. so my logic is since its totally dry the little more that was added will make up for it.. but yes, i will check out and remove any if it was overfilled  but back to procedure, tips? how long should i wait? how long does it take for the oil system to fill up properly?  | ||
| Metalstorm |
After doing an oil change I've waited maybe 5 minutes. As long as it takes to gear up. There will still be oil residue where it needs to be. The engine isn't literally dry. Start it and let the oil pump do it's job  | ||
| Metalstorm |
One other thing. Leave the chin fairing off. While the bike is warming up check around the drain bolt and filter for leaks. If all is good go for a 5 or 10 mile putt. On return check drain bolt and filter again.' Re check oil level. If there's no leak or seepage at the filter go and put the chin fairing back on. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
it took about 3.5quarts including the oil filter. and its topped off right to the top of the 'full' line on the dip stick I completely took apart the engine to get to the tranny, so it was completely dry.. notable work: ported the heads, polished the pistons, new valve seals(3 had leaks)  Pistons Stuck in Gear | ||
| Metalstorm |
Man that looks like a lot of work. Well damn me, she's literally dry alright  When I read the top post it sounded like the oil was drained and was left like that for awhile before refill. The tear down was unknownst to me. I can't really make any valid comments on start up now since I don't have any hands on experience. I can tell you what I think and I may be right but it wouldn't be absolute fact so I'll let the those who have 'been there' chime in. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
I wouldn't worry about the oil and dry issue. I'd be looking at breaking in whatever piston/cylinder/valve work you did. So, easy for the first hundred miles or so, and try and stay at your most common rev/load range for the last half of that ride. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Long as you used an engine assembly lube, you should be okay. Naturally let her idle a bit before touching the throttle. If you didn't use an assembly lube ( thick sticky stuff ) I would find a way to prime the engine before starting. | ||
| Thatman |
If you are worried about damaging parts starting a dry engine then do this. Remove the spark plugs and put about 4 to 5 drops of auto trans fluid. Disable the ignition and crank the engine "no start" until you feel reasonably assured the oil has been pumped. Then you can start her up with no worries. | ||
| Steve_mackay |
UGH, assembly lube.... Every time I hear someone recommending it, I shudder.... More often than not, I've seen "assembly lube" clog up oil passages, and oil pumps. I lost count of the number of engines that came to us because of this. I was an automotive machinist for 12 years. I've rebuilt everything from Briggs & Kohler singles to straight 8 Buicks, to Cat Diesels, and even a couple of Rolls 412 V8s. So when I say I've seen it all, I pretty much have I use nothing but high detergent 50 or even 60 weight oil for assembly. Thatman has the right idea... Basically priming the entire system before putting stress in to it. Though, I don't think I'd use tranny fluid. Just a squirt or two of 50 weight oil. | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Hmmm... I've never had a problem with assembly lube. But I've used it a handful of times only. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
i had the bike on a rear stand, and it was filled perfecly.. but then i put it on its kickstand, so the bike is leaned over more.. and it is overfilled  by a 1/2quart everything seems fine mechanically except that my active exhaust valve doesnt close on its own, probably because there is a kink in the cable.... a few oil lines at-the-engine-fittings are leaking and i have already torqued them down.. very little leakage. except from one which has been giving me trouble for some time now, even before the motor teardown. im thinking of putting some teflon tape on all of the fittings.. is that a stupid idea? or is locktite a better option? | ||
| Rah7777777 |
Teflon tape would seal it. Don't think loctite would really seal it as much as keep it from moving. | ||
| Metalstorm |
What about the thread sealant we use for the drain plug on the oil fittings? I used it on mine when I put the swing arm back on and have no leaks. I hate teflon tape and swear by plumber's putty when I do water and gas hook ups. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
High heat liquid gasket. I use it for almost everything. | ||
| Prowler |
I've been using Permatex engine assembly lube for many years building hi-perf air cooled engines and never once had a problem with it. Can't imagine how a liquid with the consistency of a heavier weight oil could possibly clog up an engine (unless the engine was assembled incorrectly........). | ||
| Xbrfirebolt |
a few oil lines at-the-engine-fittings are leaking You could try Loctite's Pneumatic/Hydraulic sealer. It's removable (Message edited by xbrfirebolt on September 08, 2009) | ||
| Jake318 |
Steve Macay just out of curiousity . I was always told in the OLD OLD motors you have to use non detergent oil because of the metalurgy used at the time didnt fare well to the abrasiveness of detergent oil. I always questioned this logic myself feeling that the detergent in oil isnt very abbrasive . Jake | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Jake, that's an old wive's tale, which I have heard once before. I've never once had a problem using a high detergent heavy weight oil. |
