| Author | Message | ||
     Stevegula |
I cannot, for the life of me, get the rotor off of my rear wheel. Any advice? I have the cast allow rims with these bolts: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17029.html I put an allen wrench on it, and then used a regular wrench on the end of that to get more leverage but still nothing. I'm operating under the assumption these screws are normally threaded (righty tighty, lefty loosey). At this point my allen wrench has a noticeable bend in it from flexing. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
I've heard of guys having to tap the bolts to get them loose (something abut how they lock up in the wheel), no biggie... unless you use excessive force. i have no personal expirience but i have read about the MORE seasoned Buell vets using this method. hopefully one of them will chime in. | ||
| Spiderman |
Here is what I do and it always works, Use a brass drift and use two hard hits on/in the center of each bolt/allen. If this doesn't work a little bit of heat, don't get two crazy, will finish the job... | ||
| F_skinner |
Same here. Tap it a couple of times and use heat. I am doing the same thing this weekend except it is a S2 side plate. | ||
| Stevegula |
i clocked it a few times with a hammer and a tool small enough to fit down in the allen head area. I also put my torch to it for awhile and warmed it up. No such luck. poor allen wrench has seen better days. | ||
| Ajgerdes |
I had this problem also, i had bent the allen wrench trying to get them loose. I heated up the bolts hot with a torch and had to use a cheater bar on the end of the allen wrench, they all came out though. | ||
| Blake |
Had to weld nuts onto the front carrier bolts to get them out. | ||
| Road_thing |
Propane torch has always worked for me. rt | ||
| Jstfrfun |
There is thread lock on the bolts so you MUST use heat, then shock to remove them. New bolts should be used for replacement. | ||
| Rick_a |
Try a 3/8" drive allen bit. They tend to use harder metals than the allen wrenches. In combination with some hard taps and some mild heating they should come out easily. | ||
| Buell_bert |
Yea those rotor bolts can be a bugger to loosen. Some of the ideas above work just fine. But when all else fails get a die grinder and cut a groove in the bolt heads as deep as you can with out cutting in to the rotor. Then grab a hammer and chisel and drive them out (ccw). And make sure you have ordered a new bolt kit from AL. | ||
| Onebadx1 |
Had the same prob with my front rotor. This did the trick!   | ||
| Bluzm2 |
+1 on the hand impact tool. Sometimes old school is the best. I've had bolts that wouldn't break loose with a Thunder gun but came right out with a couple of whacks on the old "manual" impact driver. Cool thing is if you need more grunt, you get a bigger hammer! Regarding the rotor bolts, heat and the above tool and the came right out. All three times I've had to do it. I wasn't so lucky with the side plates on my S2 though. Had to drill 2 our of the 3... on both side.. Brad | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Mine wouldn't budge, even with heat and impact. Then I put some Kroil penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a day. Next day they came right out. Penetrating oil seems to do the trick. |
