| Author | Message | ||
     Jornum1 |
For a while now I have been having a problem with my neutral light. When I start the bike the neutral light is always on no matter if I am in gear or not. After the bike warms up and I ride for a few miles it starts to flicker then goes out and operates normally. I have no clue why this is happening. My only guess is a faulty switch. It seems to be specific to the bike warming up. I have traced the wiring, and taken the plug off the switch and made sure it is making good contact. Anyone had this happen, or have a guess as to what the problem is? I have searched, but have not come up with anyone else who has had this problem. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
i was going to say check the wiring at the plug? you did clean it too right, because it get oily and dirty as well as the plug. prolly your switch is going out. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
Here is test from manual: TESTING 1. Remove sprocket cover. See 2.30 SPROCKET COVER. 2. See Figure 7-71. Disconnect wire lead from neutral indicator switch (2). 3. Turn ignition key switch to ON. Touch the neutral indicator wire lead to a suitable ground. a. If indicator lamp lights, then problem is at indicator switch. Replace switch. b. If indicator lamp does not light, then problem is elsewhere in circuit. Check for loose connections, burned out indicator lamps or faulty wiring. c. After testing and repair, connect wire lead to indicator switch. 4. Install sprocket cover | ||
| Nextcorner |
Sometimes mine goes out for a little while. It doesn't flicker rapidly though. I haven't really worried about it. Maybe I'll check out the TEST this weekend. Thanx Iamarchangel. | ||
| Froggy |
Primary chain adjusted properly? | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
na, i dont think the primary chain has anything to do with it.. archee has the equation for the solution | ||
| Jornum1 |
Yeah the primary I believe is in spec. It was loose, but I tightened it up a few weeks back. I have a manual and did the test Arch said. I tested the wiring as being fine. I just thought it was strange that it always functions properly after the engine is warmed up. I will check the connection again and put some Dielectric grease on it. If it persists I guess I will just swap it out. | ||
| Metalstorm |
Could be a bad neutral sensor. Definitely worth testing. Maybe the diode is backwards in the fuse box? Edit: I have had a neutral sensor go bad. Similar problem as yours. Replacing the sensor fixed my problem. Also, through my own retardiness, I learned that if the diode is backwards, the neutral light stays on. (with the possible exception of when the clutch lever is pulled in) (Message edited by metalstorm on September 02, 2009) | ||
| Beliy |
this happend to me.. do you leave the bike out at night?.. do you wash it often? or ride in the rain?.. on the drive side.. there are some connectors inside the plastic for the belt guard. Take it off, and unplug the connectors, look for moisture, if it's moist.. either dry it out, and tape it up, or just bite the bullet, go to the dealership and get the little connector rings ( squares) i had this issue, and it was driving me crazy for the longest time.. Also, someone said it above me, but make sure your primary chain tension is per. spec. it's just a little info. easy , and quick to check out. my o3 did it all the time before i sealed them all up. also, my low oil indicator would flash, or stay on, and my blinkers wouldnt work untill the bike dried out. every once and a while an nuteral sensor will go. but it's very rare. good luck! | ||
| Jornum1 |
Well I definitely dont wash it too often. Probably not as much as I should! And I barely ever ride in the rain, so I dont think moisture is my problem. Like I said its not random, once the bike warms up it works fine until it cools off again. My common sense is saying something in the switch is sticking until the heat from the engine is freeing it up. I dont know if that makes sense to anyone else! I will check the primary again, just in case. Anyone have a part # for the switch? Thanks everyone for their ideas/input | ||
| Rays |
I'd vote for the switch as I had one fail on my Uly with similar problems when cold. The light would go off about 4-5km from home. For my '06 Uly it was 33900-99. If you have the neutral light on when in gear just pop the connector off the neutral switch - if the light goes out the switch is guilty. My switch was intermittent for ages and then started causing chattering starter solenoid action so it had to go. On a Uly at least the front pulley prevents direct access to the switch and you will sometimes see reference to shops removing the pulley to change the switch. This is not necessary if you get an old 5/8" socket and grind it down to fit in the recess where is located and grind a lip to allow it to sit slightly under the edge of the pulley.  | ||
| Jornum1 |
Good idea ray, I have been stalling doing the replacement because I didnt feel like taking the pulley off. But with your idea, I might give it a try. Anyone have the part number? My Buell dealer hates looking up part numbers for Buells! | ||
| Rays |
The part number for an '06 12X is 33900-99. |
