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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through September 13, 2009 » Throttle problems!! « Previous Next »

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Jleblanc26
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Still having the throttle problems, sent the bike in to get brake recall and yet another turn signal out. Found out they will have to keep it alot longer than originally thought, they will be replacing the cluster(yet again) and also along with the other maintenance, they wil be replacing the throttle bodies?? anyone else have this issue, if so, did this cure the throttle problem?
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What is the problem?

I know that on some 2008s there were throttle cable routing issues that prevented the throttle from being turned all the way.
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Jpowell490
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Why are they replacing your cluster? Are you having the speedo issue or something else? Did you denoid the bike?
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Frontline
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At our shop we had to change out a set of throttle bodies on a 2008 1125r.

What happens is when the bike heats up the butterflies bind up inside the stacks. This causes your bike to not respond because the butterflies can't open and close correctly.

If that is the problem it will cure any major problems. Although the bike should be de-noided or you will still get a similar feeling in 3rd gear at wide open throttle.
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Chevycummins
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 01:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had an issue with my throttle a couple weeks ago, it had more resistance to twist the grip and nothing happens until you twist it more then it would take off. The throttle would not return all the way also, you had to twist it back. I found the problem in the rear throttle body, its binding for some reason but loosened up after opening and closing multiple times. Now it seems ok so the dealer will not be able to correct it until it happens again. Is this what your bike was doing?
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Jleblanc26
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exactly the problem, there would be a dead spot before power would come on, sometimes abruptly. i don't know about the cluster,i just changed it to the 09 version only a couple of weeks ago. why they are changing it again, i don't know.
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Ccryder
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 05:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Actually there was a Tech Bulletin (I had heard) about changing the Throttle Bodies as a pair. There were at least two sets that were changed down here in TN, just for what you described.

Time2Ride
Neil S.
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Banana_man
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 06:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have experience a couple of problems regarding the throttle.
1) I went out for a ride after my bike was in the garage for a week. I wormed it up on the side stand before I set off, but found that the throttle would not respond until it was about 3/4 throttle. It then excellerated to the speed limit but when I slowly shut off the throttle it would still keep excellerating. until the throttle was about 1/4 throttle, then it all shut off. but when i twisted the throttle to try to keep to the speed limit i found I had to twist it round to 3/4 throttle again before it would pick up.
I also noticed it would continue to do this until I switched off the bike and left it for half an hour. then when I got back on it, it ran perfectly. WHATS THAT ALL ABOUT!
2) I excellerated past a car the other day no problem but after around 10 seconds still axcellerating in the same gear, the bike just died like I had switched off the ignition! the bike just slowed. when It got to around 20mph I pulled the clutch in and tried the throttle. to my amazement it responded. I let out the clutch and I haven't had a problem since. anyone any idea's?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is the reason to de-noid and tie the throttle plates together.
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Mog
Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I believe, in a previous post, I made the point that the denoid is only part of the problem.

The original spring rate and subsequent manufacture of the two springs on the right side of the throttle bodies was not spot on. Therefore the return rate (even with or without the solenoid) was incorrect, thus producing a range of fueling problems.

I have just started the denoid process with the very talented shop technician who sent the first videos of the spring rate problem directly to Buell.

I am inching along on this (just as the old fart I am) to make sure that I have tried each level of fix. This also includes the proper updates and down loads.

Awaiting my $6.20 noid plug.I'll keep looking.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 06:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Therefore the return rate (even with or without the solenoid) was incorrect

Please explain how the spring is an issue without the solenoid. I'm not seeing that.

No one who's removed the solenoid has reported ongoing issues related to throttle position. I hate to see more made of the issue than is needed.
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Chevycummins
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 07:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My issue was not the solenoid, it was in the rear throttle body. I disconnected the two from each other to test them. The front body moved freely and had a light feel. The rear one was hard to open and stuck open. It also had a creek, squeak noise from it when moving it. The feeling you get from the throttle was it felt springy, and hard to twist then it would respond. Its only done this to me one day but worries me a little.
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Dirty_john
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Noid removed 800 miles ago on 09 1125R - no issues since then.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The throttle butterflies are coupled with the spring at the cam.
If you don't tie them together, they CAN operate differently...
Especially if one is sticky like Mike describes.

That's why disconnecting the noid is one part of a two-part fix.

Zack
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1_mike
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 10:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine was feeling a little strange...gritty, not wanting to close smoothly.

A little lube at the throttle bodies and other friction/wear points...wonder of wonders, smooth as silk..!

Mike
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Walt
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 12:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have found on a few occasions that if the idle air control tube is not pulled through the bottom of the airbox properly, it will rub the linkage between the throttle bodies, causing a stiff, gritty throttle condition. Just something to check.
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Gman5700
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what turn signal issues are you guys having and what is the cure cuz one of mine just went
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Chevycummins
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Walt, that's what I thought was wrong with my bike. I just got the bike back from the dealer the day before and if they have the air box off I always have to take it back apart and pull the IAC hose back into the correct spot. Also the breather is usually jammed down under the air box leaking oil all over the rear of the engine.

Gman5700, the rear turn signal lights fail. There is a new design light out now that the dealers are replacing them with. Those seem ok so far on my bike.
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, August 27, 2009 - 07:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Creaky throttle syndrome. Not good!
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Chevycummins
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 07:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree Blake, but now it seems ok again. Now I just wait until its completely screwed up then take it in, I've found this works better at my dealer. Much easier to get it fixed. Just sucks driving around a new bike that works like crap until its completely broken.
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Banana_man
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 12:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So if there is a problem with the fueling on the bike that can and is causing a dangerous situation, surely Buell should be correcting this , not us but disconnecting parts on the bike?
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Ccryder
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 01:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kev:

FWIW, do some research before you make blatant statements like "causing a dangerous situation". Are you referring to the creaky TB's, solenoid, fueling or what?

Most of these concerns have been well addressed over the last 18-20 months. Besides, we don't even know if these same concerns apply to 1125's over on your side of the pond.

Time2Work
Neil S.
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Gman5700
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks chevy just called my dealer they have them on order should be in soon
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Jleblanc26
Posted on Friday, August 28, 2009 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

they are replacing the cluster because of excessive needle movement over 60 MPH. anyone have this problem,, im really getting annoyed with all these problems. i dunno just aggrevated to be paying on a bike thats gonna sit at the dealership for the next three weeks waiting for a new cluster and 2 new throttle bodies. the brake recall parts took a month.
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Banana_man
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ccryder. I am refering to the problems that I have experianced. and they apper to be the same as others based on the descriptions. As I was neerly in a head on collision because of the sudden drop in power, then I would say it was dangerous!!
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Ccryder
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 09:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kev:

Have you been able to duplicate the "sudden drop in power"? It might be the solenoid kicking in.

Neil S.
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Jleblanc26
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the drop in power is the throttle bodies sticking and your going to give it gas and the spot you usually have instant power is nothing, and you have to twist more than usual to get power back on. well thats how it is in my experience
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Banana_man
Posted on Saturday, September 05, 2009 - 09:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ccryder. Haven't had the problem since. But have been on Holiday this week and have only ridden the bike once since encountering the problem.
Jleblance26. While the problem was present i twisted the throttle to full throttle several times with no responce from my bike. only cured itself when I pulled in the clutch.
My point is that IF this is a common problem with this otherwise fantastic bike, then in my opinion, surely Buell should be putting it right and not Buells customers?
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Zac4mac
Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 12:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

IF it's a sticking butterfly, BMC WILL make it right.
IF it's the "noid" kicking in, BMC is hamstrung by EPA regs and the OWNER has to make it "right".

Understand FEDERAL regs.

Only my 2¢

Z
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2009 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heck I'm still trying to figure out how to adjust the mirrors, however, this mornings heat cycle confirms for me that the 3000rpm to 4000 range is smooth and just gets smoother, I have had no hiccups or shudders, or anything, just smooth operation and I'm only in this range at all, because of break in procedures - this bike had the latest flash though done just the day before pick up.
EZ
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