Author |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 12:29 pm: |
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Kawasaki is just as bad... and they are sneakier about it. If it's a little washer thingy worth ten cents that you can likely find off the shelf somewhere, Kawasaki will charge you $1.75 for it. If it's a little washer thingy worth ten cents you can't easily find elsewhere, its $16.50. The "unintended consequences" thing is that this has resulted in a fairly booming industry on ebay where a number of people specifically go buy perfectly good operating examples of bikes (i.e. 95 and up KDX-200) and immediately part them out, and make a decent income doing it. As a result, the Kawasaki dealer is the LAST place I go for something, rather then the first. It's to the point where I fabricate parts or go to eBay without even bothering to check the Kawasaki price for them... I know it will be extortion. So Kawasaki has more aftermarket parts floating around, and less bikes on the road consuming them, and has trained me to avoid going to the dealer if at all possible. Meaning that when I do go there, they have to pry that much more margin out of me, which starts this whole death spiral. |
Dirty_john
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 01:23 pm: |
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I bought 250 copper washers of the correct size for peanuts here in the UK. |
Avc8130
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 01:35 pm: |
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=93324 Even if they are 5/8" you still get 10 for less than $10. I believe the brake banjo washers are in there also. ac |
Tpoppa
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 01:45 pm: |
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It's not just motorcycles. Replacement hardware usually has a huge markup. BTW you can get 2 Ducati spark plugs for only $70...I mean you can get 2 Champion spark plugs in Ducati boxes for $70. |
Rfischer
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 02:01 pm: |
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To answer the questions about pumping the oil out as opposed to draining it.... I don't have an 1125R so can't comment directly on that model. I use, and have used, the pump on big twins [current street ride is a S&S motored FXR] and air-cooled Buells. Method is simply to evacuate the tank, then remove the filter. Little to no oil left; but even if there is, it is so little as to be meaningless. 'Less of course yer not into changing filters and the sump is gunked up. On the bikes, I just stick the tube through the filler neck to the bottom of the tank. On my boat [ditto for a car if using a pump] I use a rubber adapter to seal the dipstick tube tightly to maintain max. vacuum. Most of the manual vacuum cans come with a selection of the adapters. Hope this helps... R. |
P_squared
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 02:08 pm: |
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I'll give it a try next time I change the oil & report back. I think the adapter on the dipstick/fill hole "should" do the trick for the vacuum. Otherwise you can't get the tube far enough into the motor to get to the oil (2 drain plugs, 1 on each side). I used the vac on the 1st oil change to drain the right side out of the dipstick/fill hole, then when I removed the left side drain plug, I was amazed at the amount still in the engine (luckily the garage floor is epoxied so cleanup wasn't that bad). |
Crowley
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 02:10 pm: |
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..............at least they're in a box before you get raped. I used a dealer for my service to keep up the Warranty and he charged me for a new washer, he told me this was essential because the manual states this to be the case and I rely heavily on my Warranty. In fact he used the old one, I had marked it and photographed it before hand. He did offer to reduce the bill but since he'd not been on the level with me, I insisted he fitted a new one. Hopefully he'll show a little more respect in the future |
Court
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 02:38 pm: |
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Dishonesty is a much different thing than charging premium prices or being incompetent. |
Rfischer
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 02:41 pm: |
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Phil, Yes, if you can't get the pump tube to the bottom of the oil reservoir, whether a tank or sump, you need to seal for vacuum. It's simple to do. BTW, you can buy rotary pumps that attach to an electric drill; they produce good vacuum. Handy if you need to evacuate more than 2 or 3 qts. |
Chadhargis
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 03:14 pm: |
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Sadly, I have other commitments that keep me from riding as much as I'd like to. I might change my oil twice a year if I'm lucky, so even if I pay $5 for a washer, it's not much money. I think most people are in my boat, which is why dealers have to charge what they do for parts. It's simple supply and demand. If they sold 100,000 washers a year, I could see them being cheaper, but I'm guessing it's a pretty low volume affair. Hence, the price goes up. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 03:51 pm: |
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Yes, if you can't get the pump tube to the bottom of the oil reservoir, whether a tank or sump, you need to seal for vacuum. Vacuum or not, if you can't get the tube to the bottom you can't get all the oil out. Just because you suck extra hard on the tube doesn't mean the laws of gravity go away and the oil will levitate towards the hose. |
Fresnobuell
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 03:55 pm: |
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Unless you have one hell of a vacuum |
Crowley
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 04:19 pm: |
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I'm going to get Mrs Crowley to change my oil in future |
Blackflash
| Posted on Tuesday, August 18, 2009 - 04:22 pm: |
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Xl1200r is right about not getting all the oil out.And what about clutch debri, syncro material,plastic off the drive cam chain tensioners all that crap. I have found myself not buying a oil filter everytime .I simply take a can of carb cleaner and spray off all the pleats with the filter sitting vertical.I then let it dry for a hour and then proceed to blow it off with light air from my compressor.Theres many ways to clean it.Those filter are pretty tough.The filter is made of paper/cotton mix and uses a red petrolium resistant sealer to the wire case.Carb cleaner 2.50 a can |
Avc8130
| Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 02:36 pm: |
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Anyone know the dimensions for the 2 washers? ac |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 03:05 pm: |
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Blackflash- aren't you worried carb cleaner might dissolve the paper element or the sealer? Carb cleaner is some pretty potent stuff. |
4cammer
| Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 04:11 pm: |
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"Those washers cost double that in the UK. I thought it was a strategy to repay for your help in WW2" Yeah, but you fellas gave us Triumph, Norton, BSA, Vincent and an energized Jimmy Hendrix. I'd say we are even mate. |
Pizzaboy
| Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 04:20 pm: |
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got it handled... and lets just say i have a very large quantity of both washers on the way! |
Two_buells
| Posted on Friday, August 21, 2009 - 10:05 pm: |
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there are two different size drain plugs and washers/seal rings. this is what is in the 1125R Parts Manual page 22 Q0091.1AM SEALING RING $4.00 or Q1050.1AM DRAIN PLUG, w/ Q0091.1AM $8.49 page 94 Q0092.1AM SEALING RING $5.00 or Q1350.1AM PLUG, w/ Q0092.1AM $24.95 there was a thread on this subject back in October 2008. But at least now there looks like there are other sources for the washers, cool! |
Maul
| Posted on Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 07:35 am: |
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4cammer, don't forget they gave us Kate Beckinsale also. |
Mikeminyard
| Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 10:41 pm: |
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I just did the 620 mile oil change on my 2009 CR. I noticed that I only have one washer, and it is on the clutch side. It is also copper, not aluminum. On the left side there is just the bolt. Is this normal on the 2009's? |
Avc8130
| Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 10:44 pm: |
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Two, Do you happen to have the dimensions for those washers? ac |
Two_buells
| Posted on Monday, August 24, 2009 - 11:58 pm: |
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Q0091.1AM thickness 0.052 copper Inside dia 0.487 outside dia 0.700 Q0092.1AM thickness 0.032 aluminum inside dia 0.715 outside dia 0.937 My caliper only measures in inches. |
Pizzaboy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 26, 2009 - 04:40 pm: |
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http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490707.html?1251319184 |
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