| Author | Message | ||
     Jraice |
As many of you know I have had a lot of problems with oil burning that persisted well beyond the point of being broken in (just short of 7,000 miles). Anyways I had the bike going in for some unrelated warranty work so I asked if they could look into that problem while they were at it. The service rep said he would have them do a compression and leakdown test. Got a call yesterday saying the tests came back showing both cylinders were (didnt make out everything he said...) low 16-17 percent. Anyways, they are having a tech take it apart Tuesday and will either correct or replace. A new motor sounds fine, no more oil burning and possibly more power (compression was low) but I am a bit worried about running a motor thats been field serviced. Will be a good test of my dealer and hopefully I get the bike back running better then ever! | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
its no big deal.if a guy can build an engine at home and it run strong and long....a dealership tech can surely do rings,or rings and cylinders and head swap.and be just fine with it. | ||
| Gunut75 |
No worries dude! Let em fix it!..............16-17 percent? I think your butt dyno will tell you so!  | ||
| Iamarchangel |
The way I'm hearing it, the engine part most dealers can do. It's everything else Buell they have trouble with. My dealer is good all round. All the best. | ||
| Froggy |
I wouldn't sweat it  | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
my guess is with v twin and air cooled. they will r&i the heads and either replace rings and hone or just go with new cylinders and pistons as a kit.re install ur heads and done.no need to mess with the bottom end.easy a one day job if the tech is not slammed and parts are all there. i also would not dis assemble until i made the call of what to replace and have new parts in hand from parts dept. | ||
| Jraice |
Thats what I was thinking, its all top end stuff, should be pretty easy. Power hasnt changed from day one, and it has always burned a lot of oil. | ||
| Froggy |
Define a lot, about a quart between services is normal. | ||
| Jraice |
I feel like its well over a quart per 1000 miles, and this is synthetic. I have put in 200-250ml's (1/4 of a bottle) in the morning and then gone riding for around 150-200 miles only to come back and find no oil on the dipstick at all. | ||
| Froggy |
Its hard to gauge the oil levels on the 08+ bikes, is your air filter all gunked up? | ||
| Jraice |
Nope not over filling... Point is compression is low so something's up. | ||
| Pogue_mahone |
a pogue in the dark here maybe rings did not seat properly and now just has low compression and burns a bit of oil? | ||
| Ourdee |
Another 500 miles of break-in riding. yuk | ||
| Jraice |
Im fine with another 500 miles of break in riding if it means no more oil burning! | ||
| Bitbear |
Any former Blast owner will tell you how they are big time oil consumers. No harm, one just watches the fill level carefully. But I'd be concerned with oil consumption on my XB. Tell you the truth, I'm a bit concerned (after riding a Blast) that my XB uses almost absolutely not oil at all! It's just as spooky! | ||
| Jraice |
I wish I had the same luck with my XB! Hopefully soon I will! | ||
| Aptbldr |
Recommend using 'dino' oil instead of synthetic at break-in period of your new top-end. | ||
| Fast1075 |
A lot of the Blasts with high oil consumption are/were caused by incorrect/insufficient break-in and long periods of idle time at various Rider's edge programs. I bought my Blast used from just such a program...it used some oil...it had leakdown...I put straight 40 weight dino oil in it and rode it unbelievably hard for a couple thousand miles...then switched to Mobil 1 20/50...oil consumption is no longer an issue...(the rings had never broken in)...they are NOW!! | ||
| Froggy |
Too soon to tell if my Blast is drinking oil. My 06 Uly would take a quart between services, and my 06 SS won't burn a drop. | ||
| Jraice |
So guys, if I get new rings, any tips on break in? I broke it in pretty hard after the initial 50-150 miles. By the time I got to 400 miles I took it to the twisties and just road it like I do now. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Breaking in the rings really begins with proper setup and assembly...when you first crank the engine...do not let it idle more than 30-45 seconds....for the first minute..blip the throttle a bit, but not more than say 2000rpm...feel the cylinders...once you feel the cylinders warm up...shut it off......let it cool completely down till cold.....repeat 4 or 5 times...yes this is time consuming...patience grasshopper!!! After a few heat cycles...check timing, etc...go for a ride...do not rev it up beyond maybe 3800 or so...do not hold it at a steady speed....resist full throttle for at least 75 or 100 miles...avoid prolonged idling...do a lot of speed up followed by closed throttle slow downs..gradually increase the pace and throttle as you get more miles... Did I mention...no extended idling?? no droning down the highway at a steady speed? the ideal break in would be on a nice twisty road or track, plenty of throttle and load variance...do not lug the engine, do not over rev the engine...listen to and feel the engine, it will tell you how it likes to be run. | ||
| Jraice |
So whats the average amount of time needed to "feel the cylinders warm up"? I am going to be picking up from the shop dont you think Ill get some strange looks if I sit there and turn it on and off for a while  ? I will try and get creative though on the ride home, instead of just taking the freeway... maybe find a twisty road a few blocks away and just do some runs on it. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
....guess i broke my engine in the wrong way..... bought the bike new with 16 miles on it. rode up, traded in my blast and rode home on the TT. the ride home was 3 hours all highway, with a dinner break in between. | ||
| Jraice |
Just got the call! Tech has the heads removed and found the problem. Both intake valve seals were leaking, going to replace those and "at a minimum" hone the cylinders and replace the rings (possibly replace more, has yet to be decided). Tech said the rings had a lot of wear and were sharp. I am glad there is more to it then just bad rings, makes me feel like it wasnt my break in etc... But I dont know much about motors, how could a leaking intake seal cause this? Also what can I expect from the rebuilt motor? Sounds like it was always low on compression and as time went by the rings were getting worse and worse on top of that. Motor feels strong but I would imagine it would be noticeably stronger with 16-17 percent more compression and properly fitted rings? Anyways they have most of the parts and the bike will be ready in a few days. Ill be out of town until Monday so Ill probably get it then! After the first day back to school :/. | ||
| Saratoga |
Engine creates vacuum in the intake (mostly at idle and under deceleration) which literally sucks oil past the valve guides. Not saying it can't happen but I don't see how a new engine has worn compression rings unless it was run without oil pressure though. (Message edited by saratoga on August 19, 2009) (Message edited by saratoga on August 19, 2009) | ||
| Jraice |
Well the oil consumption is explained atleast. Ill have to speak with the techs in person and see why they think the rings were worn. | ||
| Crackhead |
i am guessing that the wrong sized rings were installed or were not gaped correctly. | ||
| Jraice |
Saratoga... in response to your message pre-edit, the fan did run but not all the time. I like your idea though on it running lean from the leak letting air in, thus running hot. Either way sounds like my engine was pretty screwed up from the factory so I should have a real nice setup after its put back together . | ||
| Bumblebee |
500 miles of break in riding...yuck? Okay then...my view of this...some manufacturers will tell you not to run the engine over this RPM for so many miles, then not over this RPM for so many more miles..etc. I recommend that you just ride the bike normally-but do avoid prolonged high speeds (80+ MPH)and prolonged idling. What the manufacturer is suggesting is to have you lug the bike and ride slow, which will cause undue heat..so if you just ride free n' easy you'll do a better job breaking the machine in than following the manufacturers recommendations. Just my suggestions...YMMV | ||
| Tpoppa |
Saratoga... in response to your message pre-edit, the fan did run but not all the time. I like your idea though on it running lean from the leak letting air in, thus running hot. Either way sounds like my engine was pretty screwed up from the factory so I should have a real nice setup after its put back together That was my post but I deleted it. I read 'intake leak' not 'intake valve leak' two different things. |
