| Author | Message | ||
     Dpg |
Can anyone advise on the load pre-set on the stock rear 14.7" shock? Something about the number of threads exposed per a rider's given weight would help. I had a shop set my front and read after I bought it, but my weight has changed and I'm replacing the original with another used stocker soon. I'm at 210, but fluctuate down below 200. How many revolutions of the shock body per say 10 pound increments? Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
the service manual has specific procedures listed for setting sag height / pre-load. | ||
| Drhacknstine |
+1 on PK Once you have set it buy the book, for your weight changes you'll be able to set it by thread count, if you keep good records. No two springs or bikes will be exactly alike. So our thread count will be different. | ||
| 14d |
According to Service bulletin that came with the updated shock sag with rider should be 15.2-15.5" eye to eye. I've got it in PDF, if you want it PM me. Edit: Found it online, same link as in other thread. http://mcmod.com/11-04.html (Message edited by 14d on August 13, 2009) | ||
| Dpg |
Thanks, I've read the FM instructions on the initial set up. I'm right in that 15.2-15.5" range now. Maybe the fluid leaking out has caused the change in ride so I'll set the replacement at the same setting and work from there. I hate getting tossed up off the seat when hitting a decent sized hump in the road and it didn't seem as bad a year ago. Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Brinnutz |
Edit: Man, I need caffiene...Enjoy! (Message edited by brinnutz on August 13, 2009) | ||
| Lovedabueller |
take it to a professional and get the bike setup for your weight. works way better. | ||
| Kalali |
"I hate getting tossed up off the seat when hitting a decent sized hump in the road" May be I am getting it wrong here, but I thought the "pre-load" adjustment was just for the ride height. What you are (or should be)looking for are settings for "Damping" and "Rebound". | ||
| Lovedabueller |
Kalai, the preload can also make the bike feel "stiffer" or "softer" because if the spring does not have the right amount of preload set. it will "sag" more and cause it to feel "softer" and the opposite if it has too much preload. am i making sense. however all the setting need to be right. thats why you should take it to a professional to get it set to your weight. | ||
| Kalali |
"am i making sense." To be honest, no. The pre-load adjustment really has no effect on the spring "rate". In fact the spring rate is a constant. The other two settings are what "control" the shock via the oil. At least that is what the theory suggests. Having said that, I have never played with the pre-load so I have no first hand experience. I will take your word for it though. | ||
| 14d |
It's not hard to set your suspension up to your weight and riding style. There's tons of good articles on it, and with a good understanding of the principles and some trial and error its pretty easy to find the sweet spot. If it's like a Pogo stick, just bounces you around and all the fluids leaked out, the only thing likely working is the spring. My 16.5 showa was the same way, and the dampening adjustments had zero affect making for a very crappy ride, much as you described Dpg. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: My question is what is the suspension being set up for, ie: every day ride, road racing set-up} for the TWISTIES, or just plain comfort ??? | ||
| Jayvee |
This guy at AfterShocks used to offer a $40 drop-in "Sag & Clicker" tuning, before they moved to Livermore. It would be worth a call to find if they still do it. I was going to go, but they were so far away before, and now that they moved, they took down their whole price list. (?) They are pretty close to you (us) now. http://www.aftershocks-suspension.com/pages/home.htm (Message edited by jayvee on August 17, 2009) | ||
| Preybird1 |
Dpg It is blown.....You will not be able to adjust it. Mine did the same thing. One good bump and it almost shoots ya off the bike. So i replaced the junk shock with a works shock and it is sweet!!! No more pogo stick. If the shock has more than 1/4-1/3 sag travel when sitting on it with one foot down and you cannot get it any better it is done and needs a rebuild. It must be re-built or replaced. It has either lost most or all of its oil or it's about to start pissing all over your bike and rear tire. Look for a clear almost brake fluid like oil around case and shock area to see if it has already leaked. Mine went all spongy like a trampoline and then i started getting more vibes. Then on to the trampoline of death! it bottomed out on some bumps under hard accel and the rear tire came up and bent my license plate and everything up and cracked my tail light lens. Be careful the shock is in destruct mode. | ||
| Dpg |
AfterShock did the set-up for me three years ago when I bought the bike. Previous owner weighted 50+lbs more than I did and there was no sag at all in the suspension and the campening had to be re-set for my weight too. I'll set up an appointment with them again after I swap out the shock this week. Wish I could buy that new Works shock, but I'm saving up for my next front Isolator LOL! Safe ride, Gary, DPG | ||
| Kalali |
I also remember reading that the "new" replacement shocks (post recall) have a different calibration and the range of adjustments are not the same as what is described in the Owners Manual. If you read the Service Bulletin that came out with the new shocks you will notice the differences. Particularly, the rebound and compression settings are quite different. I have both the original Owners Manual and the Bulletin ('00 X1) and verify this when I get home. Someone please correct me if I am wrong. | ||
| Preybird1 |
your bulletin of 9 yrs has no bearing on this the shock kalali. It is toast! LOL new shock needed! they were all recalls. You were lucky if there was still a unit in the the good will replace option.Lucky to get a factory replacement. All of the x1's bikes were sprung for 175 lbs riders. Ask AL @ American Sport Bike And the factory! Another spring rate or setup is negated if fluid leaks!!! read before posting. | ||
| Kalali |
I wasn't talking about the dead shock...Obviously if it is leaking then the settings are irrelevant. I was more referring to the overall discussion about "suspension settings" which was the original topic of this thread. A lot of folks (including me) did not get the Service Bulletin brochure when they replaced the recalled shock and might have kept using the settings as described in the Owners Manual. Of course this only applies to the "Factory Settings". | ||
| Honesttom |
Mr. Buellistic,how would one set up for "just plain comfort"? My '99 has had the shock replaced by the p.o. It handles great, but it makes my 'ol back sore. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! | ||
| Dpg |
I don't know of anyone's Buell Tuber that rides for comfort LOL! I have a friend with one of the Ducati ST4 touring models. He rides hard and fast and one day he said to sit on his bike as he just had a shop do his suspension. Man! That thing was like sitting in a lounge chair. Loads of travel and smooth too. The tech at AfterShocks made a comment that the stock Tuber shocks would never provide that type of a ride. Maybe the Penske or Works do the job. One day I'll know! Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Oldog |
Kalali: can you please PM me the data that you have on "other" settings. I am having an issue with wheel hop, I recently rebuilt the shock, even more recently I replaced a belt and tire. its not balance a gradual spool up to high power does not yield the hop.. | ||
| Kalali |
Oldog, here is the quote from the "Service Bulletin" that came with the replacement factory shock. "For compression damping, the new factory setting is as listed below: M2/X1 Models: full damping minus 2.25 turns S2/S2T Models: full damping minus 2.5 turns S3/S3T Models: full damping minus 2.5 turns. For rebound damping, the new factory setting is listed below: M2/X1 Models: full damping minus 1.5 turns S2/S2T Models: full damping minus 1 turn S3/S3T Models: full damping minus 1 turn" It also says: "When preload is increased, both compression and rebound should be increased. If preload is decreased, both compression and rebound should be decreased." The location of the adjustments are the same as the old shock; rebound is the one near the oil reservoir and the compression is near the rear bracket. I forgot to check and compare with the Owners Manual but I am pretty sure these new factory settings are slightly different. Hope this helped. | ||
| Oldog |
full damping minus 2.25 turns what means this? screw full in then out 2.25 turns? } | ||
| 14d |
Yes. | ||
| Dpg |
Well, that's a quick and easy fix! Once I had the bike up on the frame stand and supported the weight of the rear tire/wheel with a scissor jack I had the old shock out and the replacement in within an hour or the UPS driver dropping off the package. Pre-load seems close and the dampening on the compression and rebound are set to the FM specs for now. Only had time for a quick run up the highway and down a nearby curvy street, but the bike felt much as it did a couple of years ago. Thanks everyone for their helpful input! Safe ride, Gary in Oaktown | ||
| Kalali |
"what means this?" According to the instructions, you turn the slotted screws clockwise until they stop. They call that "maximum damping" which I interpret as "hardest" setting since it corresponds to the "H" (as opposed to S) letter as engraved on the shock. Then you turn them CCW and set them according to the recommended settings. I looked at the FSM (page 2-77)last night and the settings for the "new" shock are significantly different. If I remember correctly, the factory settings for rebound was something like 0.5 turn vs. the new 2.25 and 1.5 turns for compression vs. 2.5. I am guessing they want us to leave them at "softer" settings to ensure a longer shock life. Someone please correct me if I am misinterpreting the definitions for the Hard vs. Soft settings. | ||
| Oldog |
Sounds reasonable.. |
