| Author | Message | ||
     Johnnysunami1967 |
Recently i've noticed a thin hazing around my frame and non-color impregnated plastic parts in front of the radiator housing pods... I can only attribute this hazing from over lapping the frame and or raw plastic pieces when waxing the color impregnated parts of the bike... My question to all of you on Badweb is, how do I remove the hazing without affecting the texture and or gloss quality of the frame and bare plastic parts? Someone had suggested using a chemical remover, like paint thinner, but I can't say for sure that this would be a good idea. | ||
| Chadhargis |
3M wax and adhesive remover. I use it to get wheel weight "stick um" off wheels. | ||
| Carbonbigfoot |
You're supposed to wax them?  R | ||
| Nik |
peanut butter | ||
| Exnorton |
And jelly? | ||
| Socoken |
Use Ice synthetic wax! No residue | ||
| Johnnysunami1967 |
nice...i guess I'm the only 1125 owner with this cosmetic problem...i think i'll try using the 3m product first then the ice synthetic...afterwards sit down and enjoy a tall glass of milk to wash down the PB&J sandwich...LOL...keep em coming... | ||
| Nik |
I'm serious. It works. Something to do with the oils in it. | ||
| Semper_1120fi |
Socoken's got it right: Ice is a great product! I'd start using it once you figure out how to remove the haze. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Johnny...I had the same problem, except mine was stupidity. Never drink lots of beer and then wax your bike! I waxed the entire frame, and had a bad haze. I used engine brite and then buffed the hell out of it with a dry pad to remove 99% of the haze. The other 1% is still there because I'm lazy and don't wash the bike very often. | ||
| Slojon |
I believe it is a 3M product I use for prepping to paint and clean...unfortunately I only view site at work so cannot confirm...it cleans off residue without damage. NOTE- have not tried this product on 1125r yet but has been fine on other machines. | ||
| Bott |
look for a product called Crest Acry-Solv stock number AA-S. I was given a can at a local bodyshop,but it may be available thru Crest Industries,Inc. Trenton, MI 48183 (734)479-4141 Fantastic stuff,reads: excellent pre-sand solvent, no oily residue,cleans wax silicone grease tar undercoating adhesives sealer. (no I have NO stake or claims with the manufacturer) | ||
| Johnnysunami1967 |
Lots of good info here. Thanks everyone...I'm starting with peanut butter since there's virtually no risk in harming the finish and then work down the thread...Thanks guys, I really appreciate the advice! | ||
| Bigblock |
I had a real bad haze and "graying" of my 1125 Blue frame, and the only thing that brought it back to color was tri flo teflon lube(!) of all things. I tried all kinds of cleaners, and buffing, etc. and only made it worse. I didn't have this problem on the plastics, though. Be very careful where you get it, though, as it is teflon lube, and quite slippery. Keep it off of your brakes and tires. Personally, after my experience, I would test ANY new product on an inconspicuous spot and let it sit for a while, before trying it out on the whole surface! | ||
| Thruster |
To de-gunk delicate plastic and painted surfaces, I use a little olive oil on a clean fine cloth, followed by another cloth moistened with diluted dishwashing liquid, followed by another cloth with water, then a dry cloth, then a light wipe with a little clear plastic cleaner/protector, such as from Novus, or S2 Special Surfaces. I never tried peanut butter, but it's probably better if you additionally need the light abrasive particles for more stubborn stuff. However, I recommend trying olive oil first, as I worry that the peanut butter particles may abrade the plastic itself a little. | ||
| Johnnysunami1967 |
Huh, interesting...I've got nothing to lose. Ill post my results. Thanks Bigblock/Thruster. | ||
| Thruster |
Spot-check a hidden area or reverse side (if you're opaque, not "translucid") before going all-out with a new technique or chemical (even olive oil). I just read a similar topic on the XB pages here, where even ultrafine sandpaper was necessary in desparation, though that caused other problems even as it fixed the original one. Also, Novus products were suggested, #3 (if needed for bad spots), followed by #2 to restore gloss, then #1, then some kind of wax for more gloss and to provide a protective layer to shed water and dirt. I'm lazy and never waxed my plastics ('08 Uly with 20k mi now, 'CR soon), so wouldn't know which wax to recommend, if any. I had the good sense to remove all stickers and decals as soon as I first brought the bike home new. Buell plastics are weird (unexpectedly gummy and rubbery), so they don't behave as you expect, especially with respect to sanding and buffing. It's very easy to quickly make things much worse rather than better, so don't rush into things in any case. | ||
| Slypiranna |
Why not just follow the instructions in the owners manual? BMC/HD has all that you need to keep the shine going on. ...and last but not least...I wouldn't support the paint thinner as an option. Common sense is tho. |
