| Author |
Message |
    
Metalrabbit
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 11:00 am: | 
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Smoke had it 1/2 right on the "kick stand sitting in the oil pan" deal. I use two, kick stand "in" the far outside edge of one and the other on the right side to pickup the oil from the other plug.
My first time oil change was a disaster too with only one pan. I use a black plastic double pan set-up with a drain down sump. Has a pour spout to put the used oil into empty milk jugs for recycle. |
Gman5700
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 11:25 am: |
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Yes Daggar I know that rotax is the designer of spyder engine but they have also done alot of work in design and research for ducati, aprillia and mv so there are alot of similarities there as well. im not sayin that all dealers are sh@& but lets face it when you take your bike to a dealership they rape you and everyone out there has had good and bad experiences. as far as takin a bike somewhere else other than the dealer bein the dumbest thing you have ever heard zac4mac my hd dealer is 65 per hour labor charge and has 1 cert buell mechanic. my mechanic is buell certified and had 22 years working and ridin on bikes. his labor rate is 20 per hour and he gets parts in 3-4 days not the week and half dealers say it takes. in todays economy its smart to shop around for all your needs if you wanna throw ur money to the dealer go ahead but i aint |
Tbenson
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 12:19 pm: |
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$190 plus tax, minus a $25 coupon from my purchase. |
Dirty_john
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 01:07 pm: |
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yep, I changed the oil and filter at 200 miles and after getting oil on the floor soon saw that the kick stand should be in the oil drain tray. |
Carbonbigfoot
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 01:26 pm: |
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G, Z4M was saying that doing the valves at the first service is not typically necessary. In fact, I believe that several people here have done the check a 12,400 and found them still in spec.
If your's was out of spec, and consequentially ran better after adjustment, that is an anomaly. Good that your bike runs better now, tho! How many miles on your rig?
R |
Gman5700
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 01:38 pm: |
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9200 miles on my 08 but just got it 4 wks ago was a demo and has nothin but problems with dealership. bike was sold without inspection had no rear brakes and clutch plates need replaced already due to poor rider havin bike as demo. my mech cant fix cuz warranty issue is dealer warranty not buell warranty issue. wish i could have taken it to him to be fixed have been waitin since i got it for the dealer to get the right parts to fix the brakes and when i told them the bike was stalling out when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd he said that is normal. when i told my mechanic he about went thru the roof and called them. now they say they are puttin new plates in. guaranteed the bike leaves the dealer and goes straight to him to double check |
Gman5700
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 01:44 pm: |
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btw z4m ur prolly right on valves its just me i like valve adj with first service. im gettin them done at 12,400 too esp on this bike since im not sure what was done prior to purchase |
Puredrive
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 02:02 pm: |
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And these Critical Fasteners are not in the service manual?
If someone knows any info post them up. |
Zac4mac
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 11, 2009 - 11:18 pm: |
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OK stop the FUD...
The rough-draft of the Service Manual HAD a section labeled as Critical Fasteners.
The release version, p/n 99491-08Y, has it too.
Each section in the book has "Fastener Torque Values in this Chapter" at the beginning of the chapter.
Critical Fasteners for Chapter One - Maintenance are on page 1.1.
They are -
Axle, Front - 39-41 ft-lbs
Axle pinch bolts, front - 20-22 ft-lbs
Battery Terminal fasteners - 72-96 in-lbs
Brake Caliper , front - 35-37 ft-lbs
Brake Caliper, rear - 18-20 ft-lbs
Brake Line P-clamp, rear - 84-96 in-lbs
Brake Line P-clamp, front - 36-60 in-lbs
Brake pedal adjuster nut - 11-15 in-lbs
Brake pin hanger set, front - 11-15 ft-lbs
Brake/Clutch reservoir cover screws, F&R - 9-13 in-lbs
Caliper bleeder F&R - 36-60 in-lbs
Clutch bleeder - 44 in-lbs
Clutch res. Banjo bolt - 16-20 ft-lbs
Engine oil drainplug Left - 18 ft-lbs
Engine oil drainplug Right - 11 ft-lbs
Fender fasteners, front - 74-82.2 in-lbs
Handlebar lever bracket clamp screw - 80-90 in-lbs
Ignition coil screw - 106 in-lbs
Intake cover screws - 115-128 in-lbs
Oil Filter cover screws - 97 in-lbs
Radiator shroud screws, outer - 80-88 in-lbs
Spark Plugs - 97 in-lbs
Steering stem capnut - 38-42 ft-lbs
Steering stem pinch bolt - 20-21 ft-lbs
Switch housing screws - 27-35 in-lbs
Triple Clamp bolts, lower - 20-22 ft-lbs
Z |
Semper_1120fi
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2009 - 08:04 pm: |
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To add some closure to my original post, here's what the bill came out to:
3 quarts of synthetic oil
1 oil filter, w/o ring
1 ring, sealing
1 ring, sealing, 12x8
1 PJ1 super cleaner
1 shop supplies
It came out to $75 parts, $170 labor and $5 for Uncle Sam.
The good news is that it came out to less than I expected. The bad news was that (1) it took longer than the dealer told me, (2) the bike was clean when I dropped it off - dirty when I picked it up and (3) the day after I got it home, I read about clutch weep on BadWeb, only to walk out to my garage and see that, guess what, my clutch was leaking and the dealer didn't notice (or noticed and didn't care to tell me about it).
I guess it's time to try a new dealer. |
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