| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
Cyclecat pricing; seems to vary greatly with kits starting at $290 for clamps and bars - and then for no apparent reason sky-rockets to $495 for other kits ?? Once I get my hands on the prototypes, I'll try to get a fixed price for the bored out clamps and bars. Henrik | ||
| Caboose |
Anyone have a picture (close-up) of their X1 with LSL rear-sets installed? I'd like to see what they look like. I haven't had any luck finding a good pictures on-line. | ||
| Jmartz |
Henrik: There is trouble with the upper clamp pinch bolts. Also, the distance from the fork tube hole ID to the back clamp face of the the "riser" is only .250 and will be reduced when the piece is bored to 54mm. Cyclecat stuff is very good but will require a new custom upper triple tree with relocated pinch bolts. In addition to this, there might be problems with the throttle wires that come out the bottom. In clipon applications they are in front or above in order to clear. | ||
| Jmartz |
Just talked with Mr. Banke about the pinch bolt and angled bar clamps issue. I decided to have him build a custom top tree that will allow for both the use of rising clipons and standard width handlebars. Just need to find a stock top triple tree to send to him for measurements. I'm not disabling my bike. | ||
| Jmartz |
http://www.bankeperformance.com/catalog_dtu_tripleclamps.html | ||
| X1glider |
Caboose, I have a pic of the LSL rearsets on my X1 in the "Crashes and Mishaps" section on Nov. 18. They're a little wadded up but you'll get the idea of how they look. I did send Redstripe some pics of them when they were un-violated. perhaps he still has them, I don't. A little pricy but fit and finish is 1st class. The only thing I didn't like is cutting the master cyclinder shaft 25mm shorter. Just means you can't go back to stock if you wad them up like I did! Getting spare parts is definitely a problem. ASB wants to sell the whole setup only. Up to you to contact LSL in Deutschland for spares I guess. Hopefully my CNC friend will have my replacements machined up by the time I come back home. | ||
| Riccochet |
Here is something kind of minor, I have found that the rear passenger pegs eventually viberate to the extended position during the course of a short ride. Does anyone have any ideas to fix that other than tightening them excessively? | ||
| Dave |
Loctite 'em. It'll provide enough friction to keep 'em up. Use it on mirrors (ball joint) too that seem to vibrate out of adjustment. DAve | ||
| Blake |
Why not just leave 'em down. | ||
| Djkaplan |
I had the same problem with my M2. After a couple of miles, the right passenger peg would swivel down. Not a problem really, just bothered me cause it looks sloppy. I just tightened the fasteners down an 1/8 turn and it stayed up. I don't think it needs to be excessively tightened to stay up. | ||
| Riccochet |
I took a second look at the passenger pegs. They looked to be tight but figured I'd give it a tweek anyway. It happen to be the easiest fix there is. Although the pegs don't have a positive spring and detent to hold them in position they do stay put. Now if only I could extend the petcock so it was a little easier to reach while riding... | ||
| Jst |
Can someone with an M2 or X1 with stock bars please measure them end to end for me? I picked up a set of bars off of ebay And I'm thinking they may have been cut down. Everything seems crowded in towards the flyscreen more than stock was (a year ago). Thanks JT | ||
| Bjack |
Jst, I have a 2000 M2. It looks like 28.25" from grip tip to grip tip. BJack | ||
| Jst |
Thanks Bruce, Something weird is going on. My bars are 29" tip to tip but my front brake res. is pushed up against the flyscreen. My bars look to be centered. I guess I'm missing something. JT | ||
| Djkaplan |
Jst, I've had three sets of stock handlebars on my M2 (don't ask!) and noticed that they vary in width from the factory. My newest handlebar is almost an inch narrower than my last one but I don't have interference with the flyscreen. Maybe the flyscreen is offset a little? | ||
| Bads1 |
Jst the X1 bars are alittle narrower then M2 bars.The bars that are on X1 I believe are identical to that of an S1. | ||
| Ccryder |
Help! I've searched the years of collective data on BWB and can't find a definative answer. Which of the 01' style shifters fit an S2? Next does it need mods to make it work? I have seen one for the M2/S3's but it required a different rod between the shifter and shift arm. It appears that maybe the one for the X1 would be more applicable. TIA Neil S. | ||
| Bull |
I seem to remember that someone suggested that you could use aftermarket footpegs from an VFR 750, rather than buying expensive millennium pegs. Does anyone else remember? Cos' I wonder if I should go for front or rear from the vfr, also which yearmodel? Thanks in advance! /Jonas | ||
| Dave |
Jonas, I don't have the VFR peg answer but at the top of the page the millenium X1 pegs are listed at $6.95 US. Seems to me a very inexpensive solution. What do they cost in Sweden? DAve | ||
| Bull |
Dave, They'll charge me approx. 200 bucks for two pairs... I think that it should probably read 69.50 in the top of the page, otherwise I need someone to help me with the posting business from the States ;-) /Jonas | ||
| Dave |
Jonas... Drop me an email from my profile. DAve | ||
| H_Man |
Hey Bull, It may be that you're being quoted the price for the billet aluminum pegs not the stock aluminum pegs for the Millenium. I too was looking to change the stock pegs on my '00 M2. All I saw was the billet pegs in the parts display. A friend who has a Millenium X1 gave me the numbers for his stock pegs (same as above I believe. I'm not where I can confirm the p/n, but the price seems about right). Good luck. The metal pegs are much better for transmitting feel to you. A wee bit more clearance too. H-man | ||
| Buelliedan |
The millenium pieces have doubled in price recently. the springs alone are $12 each!! | ||
| Bull |
Thanks a lot for all the information (you guys rule;-) H_Man, I think you are right 'bout the billet pegs.. But if you think that the millenium pegs are a good option I'll go for that! One more Q though, what pillion (passenger) pegs do I choose to match the setup? Remember I've got an M2'99... Cheers/ Jonas | ||
| H_Man |
G'day Jonas, If you switch the front pegs, then (IMHO) you definitely should switch the passenger pegs. It'd look a bit odd to have the combination aluminum and rubber pegs. BTW, your M2 looks really sweet. Nice touch that under tail work. My sympathy goes out to anyone you have a a second seater. There's not much of a seat with that S1 set-up. Anything over 30 minutes must have them cursing and poking you in the ribs to stop, eh? H-man The road to enlightenment is not a straightaway When life throws you a curve, head for the apex and lean | ||
| H_Man |
Jonas, I think I may have missed the point of your Q about which pegs to use for the passenger. The same stock Millenium pegs will work great for the passenger too. Don't mean to insult you with this last point, but be sure to note there is a different peg for the right and left sides (same pegs for driver and pillion positions). H-man | ||
| Jmartz |
After numerous mods to my bike in order to make go it faster, I now find myself trying to get down on the tank to avoid the wind. Clip on bars under the upper tree are just too low. Placing them above the tree would require a set of Roma forks, not a simple proposition. Rising clip ons are likely to interfere with the pinch bolts which in our bikes are unfortunately placed in the front. 54 mm items are also much harder to come by than any other size. Clip ons are also generally incompatible with the cast reservoir of the Nissin master cylinder Buell uses, as is the bottom exit location for the throttle wires. Remote nylon reservoirs "a la" Ducati and "racing" forward facing throttle assemblies are required for proper fit. I found these aftermarket /2 BMW bars that are 26 inches wide (2 less than an S1W, 4 less than an S1) probably quite similar in width to the Buell touring bars. They rise just over an inch and do this forward which moves the bars away from the tank. This forward rise also allows them to clear the angled bar clamps so unique to HD that preclude the use most aftermarket offerings. A buddy of mine could only fit drag bar on his S1 as these were the only ones with sufficient center width. The problem with these is tank and upper triple clamp interference of the controls. Two 3/16 (or thereabouts) holes need to drilled on the bar to insert the anti rotation pins of the italian controls (post '98 japanese units may differ). I also had the face of the instrument cluster bracket milled down so I could place the gages deeper in order to reduce the "bug eye" look. Cost of the bars $36, millwork $10 (for this you'll need a friend as most shops have a $100 minimum). I will post pictures soon. | ||
| Sarodude |
Jmartz- Have you looked into Telefix clipons? Kinda different... -Saro | ||
| Loki |
Hey there H! loki | ||
| Bull |
H-Man, thanks for the answer! And yes I'll change both pairs to the Y2K variant. The price is up though.. the front set it's about 61 bucks nowadays (in the US.. I don't dare to think of what that equals in Sweden). BTW There is a reason to the fact I never carry a passenger... and the seat kills me as well but it looks really good. Motto: form/fit before function *LOL* /Jonas |
