| Author |
Message |
    
Jim_Witt
| | Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2003 - 06:16 pm: | 
|
Love it ... outstanding! |
Lornce
| | Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2003 - 07:01 pm: |
|
Blake,
Yes, I have a 2 foot johnson.
Mr. Happy's pretty robust too, but he ain't 2 feet.
Lornce |
Jasons1
| | Posted on Sunday, March 02, 2003 - 11:17 pm: |
|
Thanks for the tips guys.
I get my adjusters back Wednesday, and I'll mount up the wheel and give your 2x4 trick a try.
One thing though, I don't have any type of impact wrench. Just a 3/4" drive socket wrench with a 2ft handle, and a 10" extension. Think it'll work, or do I have to use an impact wrench?
Also, If I don't have a 2x4 at home, can I use a strong piece of steel pipe? Probably wrapped in a blanket so as not to scratch my PM wheel? Do I have to worry about all that force I'm putting on the rim damaging it??? I've heard that PM's are soft, and I'm already putting quite a bit of pressure on it without success. I'm just afraid of damaging my wheel by pushing on the nut too hard.
Also, is installing the new sprocket as simply as sliding it over the splined shaft and tightening the nut again? Any installation advice.
Thanks again guys! I'm gonna have to buy you all a beer sometime if we ever meet up.
Ride safe.
- Jason |
Henrik
| | Posted on Monday, March 03, 2003 - 10:41 am: |
|
Jason: I think there's a good chance your 2' wrench will work. Be careful though, so the socket doesn't slip off the nut.
Pipe should work as well - wrap a towel around it first.
Installing is indeed that simple. Make really sure you get the nut torqued down to spec. Some say to red loctite the crap out of it. I also drill the little locking bolts and safety wire them. That nut has been known to come loose, and shortly there after the splines in the sprocket will be gone...
Thanks Blake for clarifying the electric or pneumatic impact wrench. I bought a cheap ($60) electric impact wrench from Harbor freight (.com). I don't use it too often, and it even held up to my brake disk removal ordeal. So, while it likely won't last forever, it will probably last until I get a compressor and can go pneumatic instead.
Henrik |
Blake
| | Posted on Monday, March 03, 2003 - 08:02 pm: |
|
Lornce,
Are you familiar with the term TMI?  |
Lornce
| | Posted on Monday, March 03, 2003 - 08:57 pm: |
|
Blake,
All information is useful.... to someone.
How about my question on the brake and wheels thread? Anyone have information on that?
I'm trying to find out if the front caliper 'pad pin' is loctited in place by the factory on a '98 S3T?
tia for tmi,
Lornce |
Thunderbolter97
| | Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2003 - 01:17 pm: |
|
Oops -- need the experts advise again. I'm trying to change my front sprocket, after trying the normal route with no results I'm wondering if its
left hand thread????? If not, it sure is tight,
but I don't want to break it. By the way its a 98
S-3. Any help appreciated.
TB |
Thunderbolter97
| | Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2003 - 10:12 pm: |
|
Oooh Man! Now that I've had a few minutes to read
Jasons1 question and following answers, (less than a week old) everything I wondered about is
here. Just didn't expect it to be so recent. I'm off to the garage to try again. Everyones help on this bb is AWESOME. Ride safe, hopefully someday I can contribute some good advise.
TB97 |
Lornce
| | Posted on Sunday, March 09, 2003 - 10:16 pm: |
|
TB,
Right you are. It has a left hand thread.
Henrik posted a great suggestion recently: use a two by four through the spokes of the rear wheel to prevent spinning. Easier than balancing on the rear brake pedal, which is how I did it....
L |
Stormbringer
| | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 03:30 am: |
|
The belt on my S3T broke the other day, 600km from home. It had done 47000km (29000miles). The manual said things about removing the oil tank and all the engine mounts, which looked hard, so the (Yamaha) mechanic and I decided to unbolt the rear hime joint thingy (stabiliser bar) and undid the 4 big bolts which hold the engine to the casting holding the swing arm. That seems to have worked OK (done 1000 km/600mile since). Took 5 hours, remembering that the mech had never heard of a Buell before and we had to make a 1/2 inch allen key to get the rear isolators loose. Has anyone else tried this method? Belt cost $549NZ ($US300) Isolator rubbers and sprocket cover $200NZ ($110US) and labour $225NZ ($125US). How does this compare? Do Buell first buy a belt then build the bike around it?!!!!
Stormbringer |
Jmartz
| | Posted on Thursday, March 13, 2003 - 02:43 pm: |
|
You can remove the isolator bolts and heim joints (after removing the exhaust and supporting the engine) and front mount. The frame will rise dropping the isolators on the floor. You can then slip the belt in and reinstall.
NZ likely imposes heavy tariffs on the parts you mention. US prices are about half of what you quote. Ebay can serve as a good source of parts if you can get them to ship to you. |
Stormbringer
| | Posted on Friday, March 14, 2003 - 12:15 am: |
|
Thanks Jmartz. Must try this Ebay thing.
We don't have tariffs anymore so someone is making a fortune on my parts. Can't see freight being that expensive! |
Admin
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2003 - 09:11 pm: |
|
Please see the new service bulletin covering proper handling of the drive belts on all Buell models. There is a permanent link to the bulletin at the top of the page. Find other important Buell service bulletins here. |
|
