Author |
Message |
Cobraman
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 11:13 am: |
|
I went for a long kinda hard ride last week. It was kinda warm but not really bad. During the ride (while on the throttle) I started noticing the bike hiccuping a little. Now I am noticing when I hit the throttle hard, not even wide open throttle, the bike starts to go then hesitates then picks up and goes. Any ideas of what the problem is? I am guessing fouled plugs, but even if I replace those the situation still exists to foul up the new plugs. Any ideas? Thanks. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 11:21 am: |
|
How old are the intake manifold seals? |
Fahren
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 11:29 am: |
|
Check all along the spark system: it may be fouled plugs, or a plug wire lead that has come loose from a plug or from the coil, or a chafed plug wire, or a loose ground connection or loose battery lead connection... all easy, no-cost things to check and all simple to fix if the search turns up anything. Intake manifold leaks would give you a lean mixture condition, so if you have felt that to be the case recently, then Jram's idea could be possible. (Message edited by fahren on August 03, 2009) |
Cobraman
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 12:18 pm: |
|
The intake manifold seals I would say are probably the ones installed at the factor, the bike is a 2000 X1... so i would say the seals are about 9 years old. How do you do the WD40 test? just spray it in the intake and look for leaks, just that simple? I will look at the spark system this evening, I guess washing off the bugs will have to wait for another day. I have been noticing a lot more valve rattle recently. I get the rattle when the bike gets hot (like going through town doing stop and go). The lean condition would cause the bike to run hotter thus making the valves rattle more. PS- the bike seems to run fine other than under heavy acceleration. (Message edited by cobraman on August 03, 2009) |
Fahren
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 02:13 pm: |
|
Some use WD-40, but your service manual would have you aim propane (unlit - d'oh!) at the intake area, and see if any gets sucked in. WD40 can get messy, so if you can attach some flex to the end of a propane torch to get in there close to the manifold area, that should keep things clean and tell you if there's a prob. |
Preybird1
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 04:05 pm: |
|
Check all the seals, The intake must be done every 2 years. Also check the throttle body seals and most people also forget to check the injector seals as well. I would also change the o2 sensor with a bosch part# 12014 |
Cobraman
| Posted on Monday, August 03, 2009 - 04:56 pm: |
|
I replaced the O2 sensor (on the rear header) last year. So I know that is new, I also know the seals between my air filter and the intake are all about a year old. the seals in the intake, on the injectors, and between the intake and the manifold I would say are probably original (just got the bike about a year or so ago) but I am not sure. btw anyone know where the propane method is in the FSM? (Message edited by cobraman on August 03, 2009) |
14d
| Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2009 - 12:36 am: |
|
I've never seen it in the FSM but IMO it is much better than using WD40 or carb cleaner because it doesn't get sh!t all over the engine. Using a normal propane torch (can take the tip off to lessen chance's of ignition or put a hose on end) spray around intake, when RPM's increase you've found your leak. |
Cobraman
| Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2009 - 03:52 pm: |
|
I think I have talked myself into putting new seals on the intake, whether or not there is a leak. That way I know everything is new and in good shape (especially since I know those seals are more than two years old). To do this I need two seals (one for each side of the manifold), two seals for the throttle body (one on either side), the necessary gaskets between the air cleaner and the throttle body (I think I used three for this last time). Anything else I should take care of while this is all apart? injector seals? Also, TPS reset isn't required unless the sensor is removed, but it would probably be a good idea to do one any way. Have ya'll had any issues doing this with the VDST? last time I tried to do the reset I was getting readings out -200 and so forth instead of the .5-1.5 (i think) I should be getting. |
Billetmetallic
| Posted on Tuesday, August 04, 2009 - 08:29 pm: |
|
dont forget to get the special allen wrench or grind the appropriate size one down! |
|