| Author | Message | ||
     Redscuell |
I ask about the '010 rear brake caliper because the Buell site indicates "Rear caliper is new solid-mounted 2-piston design from Hayes"; though perhaps there is no change, and it's just a different way of describing the previous unit? I'm interested because I have formally objected to Erik Buell about the lack of stopping power from the existing rear brake on my 09; and hope BMC has done something that will improve this. BTW, my new (qualified) dealer advises my front rotor is warped (since about 10,000 km) and will be replaced under warranty, along with the pads. | ||
| 1_mike |
You already have a rear brake system that will, too easily lock up the rear tire. Why do you want more? Mike | ||
| Rockstarblast1 |
hummm mine sure doesnt"lock up the rear too easily" you really gotta stomp on it for that to happen..... alotharderthen any other bike iv rode | ||
| Xbswede |
rear brakes just wear out tires. | ||
| R2s |
You don't want the rears to lock up. The rear Brembo on my Ducati doesn't easily lock up the rear, and I'm OK with that. | ||
| Pizzaboy |
You already have a rear brake system that will, too easily lock up the rear tire. Why do you want more? the only way your going to lock up a rear tire on these bikes is by standing up on the pegs then jumping onto with all of your weight the rear brake. .... even then youve got about a 50/50 chance of either locking the rear brake or breaking the foot lever clear off the bike. im voting that you'd break it off before locking up the tire. its not what i'd call 'within its abilities' to lock. | ||
| Andros |
mine locks up fine after 1000 miles of lots of use and after its been bled. Still takes a bit more force than im used to on my ducati. | ||
| Indy_bueller |
I've never understood the complaining about rear brakes. I don't use mine except to hold the bike at a stoplight. Using it for anything else is asking for trouble, IMHO. | ||
| Andros |
when i rolled out of the dealership by rear brakes didnt work at all and i scheduled a service but after a about 500 miles they worked great it was a questio of them getting bedded in. SO maybe all of you whose brakes arent working try using them more and possibly they will start working... | ||
| Avc8130 |
I took Lee Parks Total Control Advanced Rider Training this Spring. In the course they taught using the rear brakes. Using the rear brakes definitely helps to settle the chassis and can help level the chassis if you need it to. Using the rear brake in parking lots also helps greatly with tight U-Turns. The 1125r rear brake is terrible. Maybe the '10 rear brake brings something that is worth the 8 pounds the 08-09 wastes. ac | ||
| Chevycummins |
I just love it how some dealers will warranty brake pads and rotors and others will not. My front rotor is warped and my dealer is in the "will not" category. | ||
| 01xjbuell |
Chevy, my dealer is in the "will" category, warped front rotor... got me new rotor/hardware/pads and I have never had a problem with my rear brake... I think it works rather well actually, but only after adjusting the brakes... use it alot settling the bike mid corner as well as when coming to a stop Nick | ||
| Puredrive |
Mine needs to be adjusted. No complaints here so far. I did do the bedding of the pads. Within the same day I got my bike. | ||
| Bearly |
I use my rear brake a lot. It has great feel on the 1125R but is also very powerful and can lock up the rear any time. I don't know if it is because I use it enough to keep the exhaust soot off of it, or my size 12 but it really is a fantastic rear brake. I just changed the pads at 9000 miles. I have Serial # 142. | ||
| Jaimec |
Yep, never had a problem with my rear brake and I use both brakes all the time (force of habit, being an MSF Instructor/RiderCoach since 1990). Rear brake also works well for holding the bike on hills at stop lights and stop signs, and while doing tight, low-speed parking lot type turns. | ||
| Slaughter |
They go through all the expense of designing a slipper clutch to prevent rear-wheel lockup during aggressive braking and now we want to lock up the rear ... because... why?? | ||
| Avc8130 |
You guys do realize it IS possible on most bikes to use the rear brake WITHOUT locking up the rear tire, right? ac | ||
| Crowley |
The back brake on my 1125 is as good as any of my other Buells and they have the best rear brakes I've ever had on ANY bike. It was designed like that for a reason. Why on Earth would anyone want to lock their rear wheel? This is a continual theme on UKBEG too  I locked the rear on my Yamaha track bike on Tues and it was only through luck that I stayed on the bike. | ||
| Andros |
For the same reason you get ebc pads in front - to maximize stopping power. The trick is NOT to lock em up you know =) | ||
| Bikejunky |
I didn't even know that sportbikes had rear brakes. I thought that little arm was there to hook your toes under when you were standing up to stretch during a long ride...  seriously, I've never used a rear brake on my Sport Bike unless I am unsure of the nature of the ground I am rolling over. | ||
| Blake |
When/if there ever comes a need for an emergency/urgent stop you'll quickly discover that excess stopping power in a sport bike's rear brake is more harmful than helpful. The truth is that virtually all emergency stopping power for any sport bike resides in the front brake. What might be helpful to some who believe that they need a more powerful rear brake is to simply try using the front brake more and the rear brake less. >>>I have formally objected... What does that mean? Were you wearing a tuxedo? | ||
| Court |
If you are a bit unclear on this . . . . get yourself a wood plank, a 1" x 12" would work nicely. Then take a toy car or something that has two axles with wheels that are free to rotate. Place the car at the top of the ramp. Let it roll down the ramp with all four tires freely rotating. Roll it down the ramp with the FRONT (only) tires locked. Roll it down the ramp with the REAR (only) tires locked. Simple physics. Don't blame me if you scramble out and disconnect the rear brake on your 52" wheelbase motorcycle.  | ||
| Ccryder |
Didn't know we were getting formal around here, guess I'll have to put socks on the next time I log in. Last Sunday when I changed out my flat tire I replaced the rear brake pads (at 25,000 miles). I must say that in 35+ years of riding, the pad retention system is the most unique I have seen. BTW with the EBC pads you have to remove the retainer spring from the old pads and install in the new pads. Time2Work | ||
| Blake |
As to the ability to lock up the rear brake, doing so requires a fair amount of pressure, but nothing like what Mr. Pizzaboy describes, at least if you weigh more than 50 pounds. I do agree that In order to keep it clean and well-functioning, it's a good idea to lightly use the rear brake periodically when stopping. Otherwise I agree, only when in low traction conditions or stopped facing uphill. Actuating the rear brake mid-corner? Why? | ||
| Court |
>>>>Actuating the rear brake mid-corner? Why? waving. . hand wildly in back of Badweb classroom . . . "for the most exciting ride of your life??" | ||
| Court |
or . . . . to get a very quick look at where you have just come from?? | ||
| Reepicheep |
When I had my M2, I got in the habit of lightly dragging the rear brake to settle the suspension down tight for really smooth cornering. I also got in the habit of lightly dragging it any time I see "potential threats" while riding. It starts to transfer weight to the front of the bike, alerts the driver behind me that I think things might be getting exciting soon, and gets all the right body parts in all the right places to do a panic stop. On the M2, I think it did help. On the 9sx, I think its probably no longer necessary (except maybe the light the brake lights part). Heck, on the M2 it might not have been necessary if I had taken the time and had the knowledge to get the suspension set up right. Now it's just force of habit... though I am generally off the brake before the turn gets serious... Slow Look Roll Push (Rear brakes probably OK for Slow and Look bits, not for the roll and push parts) | ||
| Zac4mac |
When I rode Harleys, I always had a functioning rear brake light but would disconnect the switch for the front. If I wanted the attention of those behind me, I hit the virtually useless one with a light. If I just blew thru a speed trap, I'd nail the front so I'd slow fast without alerting the cops I was doing so. Still, I use the rear brake and engine braking a lot when commuting. I trail brake a lot in the hills too because of sand and gravel. I have replaced the rear pads, almost ready to replace the fronts. 20.3k miles. Z edit> Now that I think of it, I rode my Sporty in San Diego for 2 or 3 years with no rear brake... (Message edited by zac4mac on July 31, 2009) | ||
| Geforce |
To me, the rear brake is the quiet gentleman that stands by quietly to render assistance. He is certainly not the hired help that does the brute force work. With that in mind, I am trying to explain the relationship between the two and me being the boss. I use the front brake a lot, but the rear brake is handy to help settle the chassis, bring a front wheel back to earth smoothly or to aide in parking lot manuevers. I have started using it more and more after the initial bite of the front before choosing a line through a corner. I don't know if anyone has actually answered his question though. I am not sure Red, but if the '10 isn't any better and you do still need better stopping power maybe switching to a softer composite pad for the rear would get your braking needs the remedy you desire. | ||
| Blake |
Front brake is better, especially leaned over in a corner, WAY better. |
