| Author | Message | ||
     Gowindward |
I started the front isolator motor mount repair over the weekend on "Betty Blue" my '02 S3T. As part of preventing future problems I'm also replacing the rear isolators. I have the Kastar 445 tool, and managed to get both the old isolators removed and the left side installed. The ratchet mechanism stripped out while trying to install the right hand isolator. Kastar is sending me a new tool under warranty. So in wait mode again....grrr! Anyhow getting the first iso removed was a bear even with the tool. My experience is the tool wants to walk as it's spreading the gap between the swingarm and the frame. I had to wedge it in place to keep it from squirting out. Three of the four tie bars are removed from the frame too. Only one still in place is at the front motor mount. Anyone have any tips, trick, or wisdom to share? (Message edited by gowindward on July 27, 2009) | ||
| Yo_barry |
I used this method ... http://danielcstarr.googlepages.com/replacetuberis olators Worked well for me. Make sure you also replace the belt while you have the right isolator off. Barry | ||
| Buellistic |
Yo_barry: Have the latest up-dated copy and it is yours if you e-mail me ... | ||
| 5liter |
Same experience here. They replaced mine under warranty. I then used the home made method mentioned above. Much better results. I don't think they got it wrong. It removes the right one just fine. You just won't be able to put the right one back in without the tool going south again. | ||
| Scott_in_nh |
I used the method linked above spent about $8 on the needed items from the hardware store did not need to use a bar for leverage - the wrench was long enough and it was WAY easier than many here made it sound  | ||
| Gowindward |
Thanks guys for the tips!! I used the modified version of the Daniel Starr way. Managed to get the RH isolator back in tonight and started getting the ole girl buttoned back up. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Looks like a much quicker & easier method than dropping the swingarm (procedure linked on the American Thunderbike forum). | ||
| Brinnutz |
There's this way also. http://www.doncasto.net/hoserisolator.html | ||
| Buellistic |
Brinnutz: Compressing the ISOLATOR on the LEFT side of the frame is what you want to do when using what ever frame spreading tool ... The name of the game is: DO NOT SPREAD THE "FRAME" ANY MORE THAN YOU HAVE TOO !!! Early on BMC came out with isolator "SHIMS" for technicians that spread(bent) the customers frames !!! | ||
| Numb_nutz |
I just did mine, just unbolted the tie bars at rear, top, front lower. Remove oil filter and lines from the tank. Remove the isolator bolts lift frame up about three inches, swap isolators lower frame, good to go. I bought a special tool from snap on to do the job as described above. worked for one side but was not strong enough to compress the new style isolators to get the other side in. Took me two hours with beer breaks. I left the rear wheel, brakes in. |
